NightOwlnOrinda

Local Expert score 18,475 points
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 27, 2011

"Where Dead Heads Go to Surf"

Santa Cruz is the last true vibrant hippy area in the Bay Area. It’s been kept alive by a steady infusion of younger kids who come to Santa Cruz to live the post-modern hippy dream of communal living and the psychedelic culture. It is the kind of place where you are likely to hear “Truckin’” at least three or four times a day without fail.

It really is a unique place. I know it mainly for the UC campus that is located there. It was one of the campuses where I applied both when I had just finished my undergraduate work and when I had finished my masters. I was rejected both times (probably for the best—I’m not completely sure I would have been a good fit), but I still like the idea of the campus.

The Santa Cruz campus is basically in a seaside, redwood forest. It is the only UC Campus that I know of where the possibility of getting eaten by a mountain lion on the way to your nighttime physics lecture is a real concern. The campus is huge and sprawling and between many of the buildings you have these wooden walkways that remind me of summer camp as a kid. I think that part of the requirement for graduating from here is that you be able to figure out how to schedule your classes so that it is actually physically possible to get to them, because I can imagine that if I had two classes on the opposite side of campus, I might not be able to get to them.

The other weird thing about this campus is that the student dorms are mixed in with the classrooms, which would also be a little weird. You step out of your dorm room to go take a shower and there is a graduate student going over section work staring at you.

That said, it’s a lovely campus.

I don’t know the city of Santa Cruz that well beyond the campus, but it seems quite attractive as a place to live as well. Many parst of it, I understand, are pretty straight forward middle class suburban living, though I can’t imagine that sitting next to the sea as it does it could be too much like this.

I am given to understand however that there is a bit of a gang problem near the Watsonville border with Santa Cruz, though I have never seen any sign of it. And statistics show that Santa Cruz’s crime rate is actually above the national average—with rapes being unusually and disturbingly high. This may be a combination of gangs on one end and the drug use that is common in near the campus. I don’t know. I have not felt unsafe on my visits but it is definitely something to consider.

Also, if you are a surfer. This is definitely the place in Nor Cal to be. Great waves!
Pros
  • Great College Scene
  • Fun downtown scene
  • Great beaches
Cons
  • Hard to get to from the Bay
  • Some sketchy areas at night
  • Underlying drug culture
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Beach Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 27, 2011

"Cross Bay Getaway"

This is definitely not your average sleepy seaside town. This is an affluent little tourist Mecca just over the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County. Although it is home to barely 8,000, it has enough restaurants to please ten times that amount and enough natural beauty for much more than that.

Sausalito is actually perfectly positioned. On the one hand, it is the place where Bay Area residents go to get away from the urban living and enjoy a sophisticated little bucolic vill. On the other hand, it is on the southern end of super affluent Mill Valley area, which means that it gets the best of both worlds. People with disposable income are literally coming at it from all directions.

So what restaurants make their homes here? You have everything from Tommy Wok’s and Dario’s Pizza, to Avatar’s and Spinnaker’s.

This is predominantly a family neighborhood, which you can tell by the number of schools in this little town, both public and private.

Sausalito also has a handful of parks and a marina, filled for the most parts with the yachts of local residents.

The homes here, as you would expect, are also quite attractive. They are perched along the hills with their balconies pointed towards the water—mostly facing Belvedere and Angel Island.

If you can afford it, this is definitely the place to live.
Pros
  • Great Restaurants
  • Beautiful
  • Great Schools
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Golden Gate Traffic for Commuters
  • A Touch Snooty
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Beach Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 4/5
Apr 27, 2011

"Aquirium City"

Most people don’t realize this, but Monterey is one of the oldest cities in all of California. It was actually founded before San Francisco, and the presidio (fortified town) in Monterey was for a long period better kept than the one up at San Francisco. Monterey was the first capital of Alta California as well and, you might be surprised to know, Monterey was even sacked by pirates back in 1818 during the Latin American Independence period.

These days, of course, Monterey is a tourist destination. Not to be confused with Monterey, Mexico (which it often is—about once a decade there is a news story about a group of unlucky convention goers who ended up in one instead of the other), Monterey California is known for its amazing aquarium. We go here about once every other year and even though it is a pretty good trip—about 2 hours from where we live—it is well worth it. The diversity of fish life and the opportunities to get up close and personal with the marine life are a big hit with most of my kids. (Petting star fish is definitely the main attraction for them. For me, it is the moon jellies—since discovering them some two decades ago, I have been fascinated by them, so graceful and soothing.)

The city has really cashed in on the Cannery Row area that stretches out from the aquarium, playing up the connection to Steinbeck with a bit of historical reference to the great California writer but also allowing the area to become glutted with restaurants and stores. (The embracing of Steinbeck is highly ironic, since the citizens of the area hated Steinbeck back in the day—considering him a Commie and an agitator.) The area really has no resemblance to the Cannery Row of Steinbeck’s day, when it was exactly what it sounds like, a big sardine canning area. These days, you can go to Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Company or get Thai food, and the majority of the people on the streets are either convention goers taking in the sights or locals just enjoying themselves. It feels a lot like Fisherman’s Wharf up in SF.

Monterey also has a handful of higher education centers. The army runs its central foreign language center out of the Monterey Presidio, for example and Cal State has a small but growing campus in Monterey. The renown Monterey Institute of International Relations is also here.

As far as living here in Monterey proper, it is mostly apartments and condos, though the surrounding areas have luxurious beach side homes. People who live in Monterey proper tend to be middle class for the most part. The average salary is actually fairly low for a beach side community.

Crime in Monterey is also average overall, though it is more about property crime than violent crime for the most part. In the last ten years there have only been a pair of murders in Monterey proper.

Overall, this is a pretty affordable place to live as far as beachside communities go.
Pros
  • The Aquirium
  • Beautiful Scnery
  • Affordable Living
Cons
  • Apartment Living
  • Tourist Packed
  • Property Crime is High
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Beach Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Apr 26, 2011

"Where Gaskets Come to Blow Out"

Have you ever heard of a “one-horse town”? Well, Arbuckle is a one-horse town if there ever was one. My VW broke down on the interstate near Arbuckle and we ended up at the mechanic here. It was this German guy who specializes in German cars. Arbuckle was (and still is for all I know though it has been twenty years) in a perfect position for him. As it turns out Highway 5 hits a strong head wind in the summers at this point and the combination of the wind and the heat, apparently makes the chances of someone blowing a gasket and needing service very high. There were a good five cars waiting to be repaired when we got there, and a new one seemed to arrive every other day.

I was in high school then, and my friend who had enlisted in the marines was going to go away to boot camp soon, so we had decided to take a trip up the coast to see the Redwoods. We had taken a detour to check out Davis, where my wife would be going, and so we had ended up inland in the most unfortunate Bermuda triangle of automobiles.

We didn’t really have money to get a hotel for a week while we waited for the new gasket to come in and the car to get fixed, and even if we had, the mechanic said it was a bad idea to go to the local hotel. As he put it, “There is always a fire at the Arbuckle Hotel.” I’m not quite sure what he meant by that but it didn’t sound promising. The mechanic took pity on us and let us crash in the back of his van at nighttime. And so we spent our week of complete and total boredom.

We discovered that there really was nothing to do on a summer night in exciting downtown Arbuckle. During the day we sat around. We walked to public library one day and sat around reading really old, unused books. Another day we tried to walk to Williams, the next major town over. (Major because they had a mall.) Williams was 10 miles away though and it was hot. Luckily the local sheriff picked us up and gave us a ride. Also told us about the bus, which brought us back.

On Friday night, the last night we were there, we experienced Friday night in the Williams/Arbuckle area. Apparently the major weekend night pastime is cruising. The teens get in their cars and buzz the highway from Arbuckle to Williams and back. A couple of the girls stopped by to talk to us for a bit (my friend’s good lucks were always pulling girls in).

I passed through Arbuckle a few months ago on my way somewhere else and I drove through. It looks like they may have gotten one or two new businesses, but little else seems to have changed in twenty years. I imagine it is still pretty much the same as it has ever been.

So what is it like in Arbuckle? Less than 3,000 people live here and the vast majority make under $40K/year. This is an agricultural community, so its mostly about farming. It’ also a relatively poor community and unemployment here is twice the state average.

There’s not much to do here and, unless you are involved in agriculture, you will not have too many other opportunities. In addition everything is pretty flat and unappealing here. I would definitely not want to live here.
Pros
  • Affodable
  • Good Mechanic
  • Quiet
Cons
  • Poor
  • No Nightlife
  • Few Opportinites
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 26, 2011
Editors Choice

"Stratford Upon Oregon"

Way back when I was in my senior year of high school, I had a little adventure in Ashland. I was a bit of arty kid in the making, so I found out that there was this Shakespeare festival here in Ashland and decided that I would come and see it. Now, for whatever reason, I didn’t really have anyone to go with me so came up alone. Right from the beginning things were funny about that trip. This was back when I lived in Southern California. I got a Greyhound from the North Hollywood station. I checked my bags in and then stood around waiting for the time to go. I remember this guy came into the station and never took a seat. He was very fidgety, pacing back and forth and looking out the window. I just figured that he was one of those nervous types.

Then just as he had come to a stop right next to me, I suddenly saw a foursome of cops come running in, guns drawn, and pointing (for a second I thought it was at me) at the guy right next to me, who they quickly subdued while another set of cops emptied us from the station and put us on the bus. I never found out what was going on with the whole thing, though somebody said they thought the guy had a bomb.

Regardless, they sent us off without our bags. I would never get my clothes back until the day I came back. Luckily, I had my money and wallet with me already and both my lodgings and tickets were already bought and paid for and waiting for me in Ashland.

Ashland is an amazing little city. Not too far north of the California border and about 10 miles south of Medford, Ashland thrives off its Shakespeare festival. Where I live now, in Orinda, there is also a summer Shakespeare festival—Cal Shakes—but our little festival looks like Romper Room compared to what they have going on in Ashland with its multiple theaters and diverse productions (they don’t just do Shakespeare). I have been to a few different West Coast Shakespeare festivals and the one in Oregon is definitely the gold standard of West Coast festivals. (This is not to say they have the best dramatic program on the West Coast, only that their Shakespeare productions are the best.)

Ashland has the feel of a Colorado Rockies sort of town. It is very green and leafy and you definitely feel as if you are well removed from any kind of urban problems. The town obviously grew up off Highway 5, what in California is called the Golden State Freeway, but must surely have a different name once you cross the border. It is the same highway that you can take all the way from Tijuana to Port Angeles, Washington. (I don’t know if when you fairy into Canada it continues there as well.)

They have really cashed in on the Shakespeare Festival as well. There are a number of hotels and quaint restaurants where the actors go after plays. I remember going to one—the Black Sheep Pub, maybe?-- and sitting just close enough to overhear the actors from Cyrano (without the nose but still with leftover make up) drinking it up and reveling in the excitement they got from a good night of live theater. Many of the locals have also converted their lives to make money off the possibilities. This was the case with the bed and breakfast in which I stayed. The woman who ran it—an ex-school teacher—had converted her grown kids’ former rooms into individual rentals. She was awfully nice and took a mother hen sort of attitude towards me once she heard of my “harrowing” trip up.

But really, most everyone in the town was really nice. Even as I wandered about town by myself taking in the plays at night and hanging around town in the day, there seemed to always be someone to talk to. It reminded me most of the town from the Steve Martin film Roxanne (ironically, also based on Cyrano de Bergerac).

Southern Oregon College is at the end of town. It seemed like little more than a community college to me, but I remember that I met one of the students there and after she got over having this high school kid trying to strike up a conversation with her, I remember that we had an animated discussion about whether it was more important to have intensity of emotion or clarity of mind for artistic creation (I argued the former). She was a Photography or Graphic Design major as I remember.

A lot of the rest of the time I spent at the parks in town, which are really great. One of them, has some kind of fancy water works, I think. When the high school kids get off school, a lot of them hang out at these parks in the quaint “downtown” area. When I was there, I met this girl named Autumn P. and we ended up going out one night. (She drove her mother’s car after her mother called the Bed and Breakfast owner to make sure I was who I said I was. That’s the kind of small town atmosphere they have there, everyone knows everyone else.) I still remember how fun it was hanging out with this complete stranger and getting an insight into what it would be like living in a small, kind of hippy-dippy/artsy town like this.

There are some surprising things about Ashland. For example, given the quaintness of the town, you might expect people here to be extremely well-off, but actually the median income here is only $40K. Even with lower costs of living in Oregon, this is really surprising. My only explanation for this is that the students from the local college bring this amount down. It is certainly not because of local high school, which gets the highest ratings around. It is also not because of the crime rate which is consistently lower than the national average.

Overall, this is would be a great little town to live in. I would certainly not mind living here.
Pros
  • Shakespeare Festival
  • Quiant Colorado Town Feel
  • Excellent Schools
Cons
  • A Bit Out of the Way
  • Tourists Must Get Old
  • Everyone Knows Everyone
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 18, 2011

"Toad Tunnels and Cow Windows"

Just about 10 miles to the west of Sacramento, Davis is a relatively small university town nestled in the middle of a sea of farm fields. One of the lesser known UC campuses, UC Davis is home to the best Vet School on the West Coast and arguably the best in the country—with Cornell’s program being it major nemesis. Once the ag extension of UC Berkeley, the Davis campus has made its name in the sciences and this is reflected throughout the campus.

Davis holds a special place in my heart because I did two tours of duty as a graduate student there. Teaching anything in the humanities to undergraduates majoring in science takes bit of work, but I found it quite an entertaining challenge.

Most of Davis really revolves around the campus, but the city itself is very pleasant and the schools are outstanding, making it a great place to raise kids.

Davis is a bike culture with most people who live in town opting for pedaling rather than burning fossil fuels. This is not just because Davis is so environmentally conscious, of course, but is also because parking in the downtown area is a bit of a pain and because the campus is spread out enough that biking makes it easier to get around.

Davis is notoriously environmentally conscious as well. They actually have entire departments devoted to eco-friendly studies. Even in the humanities, there is an emphasis on scientifically based environmental studies with a Literature of Nature studies field (I am getting that slightly off, but you get the idea). Nature writers like the famous Beat Gary Snyder have found homes here, and Davis professors are helping develop more environmentally friendly automobiles as well.

The most famous example of this focus on nature came almost 15 years ago when Davis created a special tunnel for the toads of a particular area when it was discovered that an overpass was going to disrupt the frogs’ natural migration patterns. The tunnel drew a great deal of attention and was even featured on an early episode of The Daily Show. If you want to see the actual clip, you can find it here (Stephen Colbert is the correspondent):

http://www.thedailyshow.com/watch/tue-april-27-1999/colbert---tunnel-vision

Davis’ bike culture also helps to explain the one area of crime where Davis has an eye popping 2000+ crime rate. To give that number some context, Oakland, California has close to 900 crime rate and is considered one of the most dangerous cities in California. (The average crime rate in the country is 312.) Overall Davis’ crime rate is pretty low, ranking only about 200 overall. There have only been two murders in Davis in the last decade. When you look at thefts, however, Davis’ crime rate jumps to 2000. This is because of bicycle theft. This problem is an epidemic in Davis, with a number of thefts occurring during Thanksgiving and Spring breaks when students head home leaving their bikes behind for the unscrupulous to snag.

The other thing that is a little unusual about Davis is the prevalence of surgical masks during the spring and summer. You will often see a number of people around town wearing these trademark masks. The reason for this has everything to do with geography. Because Davis is surrounded by so many farms, when spring comes and the wind blows over the plain, it blows pollen and insecticides of various kinds over the town. Many people who never knew they even had allergies soon find their eyes red and watering and their throats clenching up.

The summers in Davis are brutal in terms of heat, making it feel more like a desert than anything else. In winter, it is just the opposite. It is not uncommon for fog to roll in and cover the town for weeks on end.

Davis has a strong sense of community as you have no doubt already gathered and is just small enough that those who stay on beyond a few college years quickly get to know the local characters and have a sense of the town as a much smaller entity. Every year Davis has a bike race and Picnic Day—a kind of spring festival that ends with a Battle of the Bands but also involves as plethora of fun family friendly events. (The cow with a plastic window on its side from the Vet School is one of its most famous attractions.)

Davis has a really well supported farmer’s market weekly as well and in the summer it is a meeting ground for those that really call Davis home.

The city has undergone quite a bit of change with department stores moving in—including a controversial Borders’ books that is blamed for driving some of the smaller independent bookstores out of business. (It inspired the “Briefs not Borders” campaign that emphasized the fact that it is hard to buy underwear in Davis, but books are all over.)

There are a number of favorite restaurants there as well, the mainstays are Woodstock’s Pizza, Dos Coyotes and the Bistro. The local bar that is well attended is The Graduate.

Although I have a soft spot for Davis, I also think that it is a great place raise kids and wouldn’t mind one day returning. (It is however, a bit boring for students.)
Pros
  • Great Schools
  • Affordable Family Living
  • Great Feeling of Community
Cons
  • Blazing Summers
  • Allergens
  • Kind of Boring
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 18, 2011

"The Heart of Lamorinda"

The Alice neighborhood hangs off Rheem Blvd. along Orinda’s border with Moraga and Lafayette. Affluent like most every neighborhood in Orinda, Alice sits atop a leafy elevated hill that makes you feel as if you are hours away from the stresses of city of living even though you could be in San Francisco in 45 minutes on most days.

There are lots of pine trees and homes that look like they could fit in equally well near Lake Tahoe. Homes here have large porches that look out over what seems largely like forest but is actually the other Lafayette homes cloaked by the tree tops. The homes here are fairly big, the majority having pools and averaging close to a million dollars each. This is one of the newer areas in Orinda with a substantial portion of the structures having been built after 1960.

One really nice thing about the location is that you are centrally located. If you want to catch a movie, for example, you can drop south down Rheem Blvd. to the Rheem Theatre in Moraga. Or, if you don’t like your selection there you can go north, hang a left at Glorietta and be at the Orinda Theatre in about 10 minutes. Or you can hit the Park Theatre in Lafayette in 15 minutes (though I think the Park Theatre may be closed). The point, however is that the Alice neighborhood is the heart of the Lamorinda area, just about equidistant from all areas in these three sister cities, while remaining itself nicely tucked away deep in residential area—few neighborhoods make you feel so sheltered from worries of big city.

There are also some unusual features in the area beyond the pleasant alpine feel. There is, for example, a kind of European style traffic circle at the corner of Donald and Hall. Just to the east of the neighborhood are the hills leading down to the Lafayette Reservoir, which Lamorinda Residents enjoy as a pleasant recreation area. The circling trail to the reservoir is a popular place for strolls and jogging (markers along the trail help you keep track of how far you have gone and how far you have to go). One of the reservoir trails, Rim Trail, comes not too far from the homes of Alice.

If you want to find out more about Rim Trail, here is a good article from Bay Area Hiker:

http://www.bahiker.com/eastbayhikes/lafres.html

There are also some unusual homes here.
Pros
  • Beautiful Homes
  • Centrally Located
  • Great Schools
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Hillside Problems
  • Fire Fears
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 3/5
Apr 18, 2011

"Oakland's Most Dangerous Neighborhood?"

On the northern end, Melrose is the province of the industrial detritus from the nearby port. Stone quarries and flat, one-story warehouse buildings make up the landscape. Businesses that make their homes here: U Save Redimix, a concrete mixing company; Carillo Ironworks; East Bay Saw and Knife Works (next door to Carillo); and Protex Wax Manufacturing are just a few.

There is a run down looking residential area to the south. Fenced in pre-1950 homes stare out over dead lawns onto cracked pavement. For sale signs dot the streets along the street next to older model cars. (There is little sign of any construction here since the Carter Administration.) Occasionally you will come across a home that has been maintained and find a lawn filled with colorful flowering bushes, but these are few and far between.

On its western end the neighborhood gives way to a flat marshy area where the UP trains come to and fro carrying imports and exports, and where the elevated freeway stands, lifting commuters safely over this little visited area of Oakland.

Melrose is right at the heart of the Fruitvale District and unfortunately bares all of the negative hallmarks associated with this district. Despite being home to only about 1500 residents, this neighborhood averages 3 murders per year. There are war zones that are less dangerous than this neighborhood. I have looked over hundreds of neighborhoods and this is literally the most dangerous neighborhood I have ever come across.

If there is one bright spot in this neighborhood, it is Bridges Academy, the local elementary school. It is not that Bridges is an outstanding school—it certainly is not by any objective standard. Objectively, the school is actually just middle of the road or maybe even slightly below average. It’s Academic Performance Index (API) ranks it at about 750. 500 is pretty terrible 900 and above is about as high as it ever gets. If you look at the statewide tests, you find that about 40% of students are testing proficient.

But if you consider Bridges Academy in the context of nearby schools, you begin to see why I see it as a sign of hope. Most schools in this section of Oakland rank at the lowest levels of API and are lucky when more 10% of any group tests proficient on standardized tests.

In addition, Bridges Academy is on an upward trajectory. Before 2009, Bridges scored just as poorly as most local schools. Then, I don’t know if there was some kind of change in the administration or teaching staff, but across the board test scores started to improve—and not only improve, but improve dramatically. Scores jumped up 20 or 30 points in many instances and continued to improve into 2010. Whatever they are doing there, it is clearly working.

Despite this positive sign, I still can’t recommend this neighborhood even to those who cannot afford any better. It is simply too dangerous.
Pros
  • Okay Elementary School
  • Good Businesses
  • Affordable Rents
Cons
  • Violent Crime
  • Dirty
  • Run Down
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 18, 2011

"Another Great Orinda Neighborhood"

The Glorietta neighborhood is the leafy residential area that stretches off Glorietta Blvd. in southern Orinda. This is a very leafy neighborhood filled with long flat Ranch homes that date it as one of the Orinda neighborhoods that saw its big growth spurt in the 1950’s and 60’s. It is, as most of Orinda is, a very wealthy area where the average yearly income is well into the six figures. You might not surmise this affluence from just looking at most of the houses here. The homes on first sight seem relatively modest compared to what your average six-figure income earner could afford. A closer look reveals the reason why residents here are will to pay the higher prices for the privilege of living here.

Most of those who live in the Lamorinda area know Glorietta Blvd., the main artery that crosses the neighborhood, as an alternate manner of getting to Lafayette and Moraga when Moraga Way has been blocked up.

Glorietta Elementary is also in this neighborhood and it, like the other schools in Orinda is just hands down fantastic. It ranks way above the state average in virtually every category where it is tested. There API score, for example, was 965 last year (the max is 1000) and students tested in the 80% and above on average in both math and English across all grade levels. Really fairly impressive, even by Orinda’s high educational standards. For pre-school kids or those that need daycare, there is also St. Marks just down the street on Moraga. It is the daycare run by Holy Shepard Lutheran Church and gets high praise from some of the local schools.

There are also some places in this neighborhood that even those who live in Orinda don’t really know about. For example, nestled up on what most people think is a purely residential street--Heather Lane—is Meadow Swim and Tennis Club. This is one of at least four such swim and tennis clubs that hideaway among the residences of Orinda and give the community a slightly snooty air about it. The facility, from what I can tell from driving by, is really very nice—as you would expect here.

To sum up: yet another great Orinda neighborhood.
Pros
  • Great Schools
  • Very Green and Leafy
  • Nice Houses
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Animal Intruders
  • Busy Main Drags
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 1/5
Apr 17, 2011

"Same Old City Problems"

Arroyo Viejo means “old creek” in Spanish. There is, in fact, a creek here, but most people would just consider it to be more of “a wash” as we called it when I was growing up. It is one of those asphalt deals that carries the water through the neighborhood. Like much of the rest of the Fruitvale District, crime is an issue here. Between 2007 and 2009, seven murders occurred at the edge of the neighborhood along the main drags. With only about 5,000 residents here this neighborhood is dangerous enough neighborhood that I can’t recommend it.

That said, let me tell you somewhat more about Arroyo Viejo. To begin, this is a fairly poor area, with the average household making less the $40K per year. The homes in Arroyo Viejo are mostly old, dating to before 1950 and being of the tiny California bungalow variety. There are also some very ugly boxy apartment buildings here, some of which almost look abandoned because the first floor windows are all boarded up. I’m not sure why this is the case, but it does make the whole place feel more like a war zone than a street here in the US.

The local school is Webster Academy and it reflects the problems in the community as a whole. Nine of 10 students here are on reduced lunch program because they are of limited means. Overall, the school is ranked 200 points below the state average and students test in the bottom 10th percentile across the board on everything from English to Math. Half the students here are considered ESL—which partly explains the low English scores. The majority of students’ parents at Webster did not finish high school and only 1 in 20 finished college.

As in a lot of the neighborhoods around here, one of the industries that does seem to be going strong here is the religious industry. This neighborhood has at least three churches that I know of and all of them seem to have active congregations.

Put simply, this is a typical intercity neighborhood with little going for it.
Pros
  • Okay Child Care
  • Low Rent
  • Okay Homes
Cons
  • Crime
  • Poverty
  • Terrible Schools
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 11, 2011

"Great Elementary, Great Family Neighborhood"

Del Rey is the neighborhood that encircles Del Rey Elementary on the southwestern end of Orinda.

One fact that many people don’t know about this neighborhood who don’t live in it, is that there is a power plant on the hill here. It is fairly well tucked away in an area with few homes just off Lost Valley Rd., but if you follow the high power lines that drop down into Orinda Village, you can make out that they disappear behind a high hedge of evergreens here.

Del Rey, however, is a slightly older residential neighborhood on the edge of the valley that embraces Orinda and Moraga. The views are not spectacular due to tree cover and hills opposite, but the street does give you a cozy, semi-rural feel.

The usual hillside problems apply here, though not as intensely as in other neighborhoods of Orinda. One big problem, however, are the lack of sidewalks and wide lanes in part of this neighborhood. Whenever residents have more than two or three cars, you start to get spillover onto the winding hill lanes. This can cause some real problems as residents speed their way around hairpin turns. In addition, pedestrians and bicyclists really have no place in this neighborhood for the most part. Although here and there you do find long straight aways that they might enjoy.

Finally, Del Rey Elementary upholds the usual high standards of Orinda. How high? Well, Del Rey is ranked a 10 out of 10 on the Great Schools website. Its API scores are in the 900’s (1000 being the highest possible). And its students rank in the high 80th and 90th percentiles on virtually all standardized tests. Put simply, it is as good as it gets and one of the main reasons families move to Orinda.

Overall, this is a great quiet neighborhood for families. Well worth the expensive property prices if you can afford them.
Pros
  • Great School
  • Great Houses
  • Very Woody and Quiet
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Lacks Diversity
  • No Sidewalks
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 11, 2011

"Nice "Secret" Hillside Neighborhood"

Perched up along the western ridge of Orinda is the Lost Valley neighborhood. The majority of what is considered part of this neighborhood feeds off Crestview Drive, though you might also include the western face surface streets that come off Moraga Way as part of Lost Valley. The neighborhood is amazingly affluent with large sprawling homes looking out over the valley and leafy tree tops of the Glorietta neighborhood just below it.

The neighborhood mostly dates back to the Fifties as is evident by the many Ranch homes that straddle Crestview. However, so many of the homes have been refurbished that the neighborhood does not really have that 1950’s look to it. Many newer homes have also been built here so there is a fair amount of variation in architectural styles—though not always in a manner that is aesthetically pleasing as a whole. For example, you might find a wonderful long Prairie style home complete with white picket fence and a pleasant tree swing hanging in the side yard—but then, next door is a one of those modern, sharp edged homes with clear minimalist design pattern ruining the faux rural feel of its neighbors.

Regardless, every house in itself is quite attractive, and I suspect 90% of people would be more than happy to live in such a large, luxurious home and enjoy the pools and tennis courts. I would certainly love such a home if I could afford it.

I will not go on and on about the drawbacks of hillside living other than to summarize them: erosion, fires, wildlife, no sidewalks. If you want to see my usual spiel you can find it on any number of other reviews about the hillside neighborhoods in Orinda.

Overall, a nice well-hidden little neighborhood.
Pros
  • Great Houses
  • Great Views
  • Great Schools
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Hillside Problems
  • No Side Walks
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 1/5
Apr 11, 2011

"Tacos, Gangs, and a Pool"

Not to be confused with the city of Fremont, some twenty miles to the south, the Fremont neighborhood is actually one of the many enclaves of Oakland. In some ways, this is a pretty average neighborhood for the Fruitvale District. It has the usual crime problems for this area. The murder rate is depressingly off the charts with an average of about 4 murders per year. Given that the densely packed population of this 1/3 mile neighborhood is only only about 6000, that is a one in 1,500 chance of being killed here every year.

The homes here are also fairly typical of this area of Oakland. There are lots of bungalows, etc. There are also a fair number of worn-put looking Victorian apartments and older 50’s style boxy apartment blocks. Residents are really packed in here, so you tend to have individual floors and rooms of homes parceled out separately. Driveways lead back to other apartments (converted garages perhaps?) and you get a fair number of dingy looking establishments.

Signs of poverty and crime are pretty much everywhere you look, with midday drunks ambling unsurely down dirty garbage strewn streets where barred windows stare out at them. Older, faded cars parked on front lawns and heavy makeshift curtains cover windows, protecting against the gaze of would-be burglars. Put simply this is a pretty dingy depressing little urban neighborhood.

What is unusual about this neighborhood however are the number of restaurants here and the pool. Yes, that’s right. There is a pool here. (One of six public pools in Oakland.) It’s actually part of the Fremont High School, and has an imposing Art Deco stonework sort of a façade that is gated shut when not in hours of operation. As you might guess, this public pool is immensely popular during the summer when the heat and the lack of alternate opportunities draw locals to the facilities for beginning swimming classes for the little ones and water aerobics for the grown-ups.

What is also unusual are the attempts to improve the High School here in the Fruitvale, by breaking Fremont High into four smaller schools. This happened back in 2003. One of the schools that now finds its home on the Fremont High campus is Mandela High. Unfortunately, such attempts have not yielded terribly impressive results. Mandela, for example, though it has improved its API scores marginally year after year, it simply has not managed to show demonstrable results compared to the California average. If you look at the CST scores for example, across to board, Mandela students pass tests at a rate of 10% in virtually all categories. This is for tests that most high schools pass 50% of their students.

Of course, we do have to account for the extra difficulties instructors and students face at Mandela High. Everything from poverty, gang violence, and second language problems make the learning environment extremely difficult. It is nevertheless a disappointment to see such little progress overall.

Finally, one other thing that this downtrodden neighborhood has going for it, are the restaurants. A number of them have an authentic Latin feel to them. Among these I would put El Paisa and Santo Coyote, both of which have great fresh tacos worth braving the dangers the Fruitvale.

Strangely for such a high crime neighborhood there are also a number of other kinds of stores here as well. There is a very unusual looking jewelry store that always seems to have it larger garage door front closed. It is across the street from a “bait” store and a tattoo parlor and next to a beauty salon. This is a fairly thriving business area—although the main language of currency here is Spanish not English, so you Gringos should be prepared to repeat yourself a few times if you want to ask questions or order anything unusual.
Pros
  • The Public Pool
  • Good Authentic Food
  • Good Public Transportation
Cons
  • Crime
  • Poor Schools
  • Dirty
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 11, 2011

"A Neighborhood in Embryo "

The Castlegate neighborhood is the site of what might one day be another Orinda neighborhood. As far as I can tell, at the moment it is nothing but empty lots awaiting the go ahead to start building. Nestled up in the hills near where Highway 24 feeds into the Caldecott Tunnel, all I can see is tracks and cleared away land. If you search for it on real estate sites, you will see that they are offering to build multi-million dollar homes up in this area, but you will only find actual pictures of one historic building dating back to 1894. (It is for sale by the way for about $300,000 though the Orinda Historical Society will most likely try to keep it from being torn down and redeveloped given its age.)

You can also find some statistical information on the supposed near 800 residents that live here, but a careful look reveals they are actually including the Knickerbocker neighborhood as part of Castlegate. I really don’t think anyone has actually finished building a home up on these empty streets with parceled land spaces.

When and if this neighborhood is actually born, it will probably be quite successful so long as Orinda continues to grow. The location is really wonderful, having its own freeway exit and staring out over the green woody hill where the California Shakespeare company puts on its summer programs, the area could not be more secluded. If the weather is anything like that of Cal Shakes, you will get a cold fog that cools you in the summer and the usual hillside problems—although it looks like they have flattened out the area for the neighborhood.

Developers are looking to name the area Wilder, after the main street that runs up the Cal Shakes gates. Of course, as theater fans know, this is a reference to Thornton Wilder, the Our Town author. For now however, the due date for this neighborhood, given the current real estate market uncertainties, remains vague. We will have to wait and see.
Pros
  • Brand New
  • Great Views and Weather
  • Good Freeway Access
Cons
  • Not Yet a Reality
  • Expensive
  • Hillside Problems
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Apr 11, 2011

"Airport Traffic and Offices"

Raiders’ fans would not be happy to know that the area just to the west of their home stadium bares the name of their hated Chiefs’ stadium, Arrowhead, but so is the irony of geography in this area. Most people in Oakland, however, only know this area as the hotel and restaurant strip near the Oakland Airport. The main drag, Hegenberger, is the avenue everyone exits off to get to their flights, and hotels and restaurants have taken advantage of this to line the busy street.

The most prominent hotel along Hegenberger is the Courtyard Marriot with its high rising façade. As far as restaurants, you can also find an In-N-Out Burger by the freeway (in a run down looking shopping strip), a Carrows, and a Yoshino. The restaurant that best takes advantage of its location, however, is Hegenburgers, a burger place of course. I’ve only been there once, but you basically can order any of twenty different kinds of burgers, from a Philly (like a cheese steak version of a burger) to a plain older Hammy. Definitely worth the experience if you just stopping in from out of town—gives you a taste of the seedy Oakland vibe.

You also get gas stations and convenience stores, the usual sorts of businesses here.

What most of those who are heading for the airport to head out of town don’t know about this area, is that there is also a thriving office park stretching to the north of the main drag--not much sign of the “marshland remains.” In its place, you find a sharp angled grid of streets, with boxy one story buildings housing the likes of the Teamsters, a credit union, and a Korean newspaper. Really kind of bland in appearance, but one of the many areas that have used Oakland’s lower rents to draw in local businesses.
Pros
  • Okay Restuarants
  • An Okay Hotel
  • Pleasant Office Park
Cons
  • Traffic
  • Bland Looking Offices
  • A Little Ugly
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 10, 2011

"Orinda Apartments and Hill With a View"

The Knickerbocker neighborhood continues the tradition begun up in the Sleepy Hollow neighborhood north of the freeway. Knickerbocker is also an allusion to the author of the Legends of Sleepy Hollow.

The Knickerbocker neighborhood is just to the south of Highway 24. One of the features of the neighborhood that is unusual for Orinda is the presence of boxy, 1960’s style apartment buildings and condos hugging the tree line of the freeway. These apartments are really quite unpleasant looking and probably overpriced because of their location. It is however, a pretty great location. From these apartments, it is only a short walk to Downtown Orinda, where you can get a latte, go to one of the handful or restaurants or catch a movie at the Orinda Theater. In addition, you can make it to the Orinda BART in about the same time or catch the carpool into the city from the traffic circle behind the theater. Basically, you could give up your car and save on maintenance and insurance—a pretty good deal, overall and you’d be doing your part for the environment.

Of course, the neighborhood is not just the apartment buildings along the freeway. It is also made up of a web of streets covering the north facing hill. Most of these homes date back to the 50’s and 60’s but they are not just the typical ranch homes. Opposite the apartment complexes, for example, you can find some attractive woody Craftsman style homes in the Maybeck style and something like two story prairie homes. The houses here take advantage of the hillside topography to create an attractive appearance, placing garages down at street level and having winding steps leading up through the branchy yards to the front doors.

The farther you make your way up into the hills the larger the homes become and the better the views north towards the St. Stephens area. Most angles obscure the freeway, making it seem as if you are in a much woodier and less populated area.

This is, like most of Orinda, a highly affluent area, where front drives are usually occupied by Mercedes and where there is almost always someone along the street doing some remodeling, placing new stonework out front or remodeling their decks. On the other hand, there is a bit of a rural feel here (kind of a faux-rural feel, really, because of all the perfectly landscaped yards and giant homes) but enough of one that you can occasionally see a rope ladder leading up to an observation coop atop a tree and even the occasional makeshift tree house itself.

Of course, with leafy hillside living come the usual drawbacks. Narrow drives make it difficult for delivery trucks for example. Often it takes a special smaller truck, or residents have to go to pick up their own items. You will also get a fair amount of wild life, mostly of the cute variety, but also not quite so cute when they eat your roses or knock over your trashcan on trash day. If you live here, expect field mice, deer, raccoons and skunks.

You also have to watch out for mudslides and erosion during the rainy season when heavy rains can make the idea of hillside living seem like a bad idea. Homes must be maintained and decks periodically checked. In the summer, fire fears take over as the hills seem to pick the smell of burning wood from miles and miles away.

The lack of sidewalks is also a consideration when trying to raise kids here, as it means that they will not be able to play outside or walk down into town from most of these homes.

That said this is a nice little nook of neighborhood that is centrally located and contains a variety of options for residents. If I had to commute into work every day, I would definitely want to live right about here.
Pros
  • Nice Views
  • Very Leafy
  • Big Homes
Cons
  • No Side Walks
  • Hillside Worries
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 1/5
Apr 10, 2011

"Raiders and Metalworkers"

As the name indicates, this is the “neighborhood” near the Coliseum made up of warehouses for the most part. Metal works and storage facilities call this place home but not many people. This has to be the least populated area of Oakland, with barely 500 people per square mile. Actually, given the look of this place you will probably be surprised that even that many live there. It really does look like one of those classic run-down sort of industrial areas.

The neighborhood centers around the 880 Freeway and the railroad tracks that carry so much cargo to and fro. You will also find a lot of spots where there are lots filled with the rusting odds and ends of the difficult to identify machinery. Most of the neighborhood, especially north of 66th is made up of square, non-descript warehouses.

The Coliseum itself is a bit of a landmark for the Oakland. It is the storied stadium where the Oakland Raiders have long played (except for that little relocation to Los Angeles during the 80’s and 90’s). It is a good old fashioned field, but Al Davis is on the look out for better facilities and rumors of an impending move are a yearly feature in the newspapers. I would say more, but I have to admit that the only time I have seen the Raiders play was down in LA Coliseum. Raiders’ games are infamous for their drunken brawls in the stands.

The Athletics also play at the Coliseum, and the indoor facility next door—Oracle arena—features basketball games. (Oracle is a Bay Area software company.)

You don’t get too much violence in this area other than at the Raiders’ games—largely because there is little here to attract anyone to just hang around. Overall, it is pretty ugly here, but every city needs an area where the dirty work of industry gets done.
Pros
  • The Stadium
  • The Indoor Stadium
  • Good Transportation
Cons
  • Ugly
  • Dirty
  • Dangerous
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 05, 2011

"An Affluent Country-Vibe "

Tucked up in a woody area above Orinda’s main circle, is the Monterey Terrace neighborhood. With an alpine feel, the neighborhood’s lanes are filled homes that give off a Lake Tahoe sort of a vibe. That the residents are affluent is obvious from the newer model mini-vans and luxury cars that park on front drives, even though the homes are often obscured from view by pine curtains.

The majority of the homes here date to the 50’s and 60’s. They are fairly large with backyards often bordered by pine grooves—sometimes looking more like untamed forest. This means the usual problems we associate with hillside living: a certain amount of erosion during the rainy season, and the fear of forest fires during the dry. Both fears, however, are not as strong as north of Highway 24, as this section of Orinda has not come close to be threatened by fire in the way that those other sections have (to my knowledge anyway—there may have been a historical fire that ravaged this area way before my time). Many homes also manage to have swimming pools despite the hilly territory.

Overall, this is good family living except for the lack of sidewalks. This is really a car culture. Kids do not spend a lot of time riding bikes. This is a general drawback of most of Orinda, however.
Pros
  • Beautiful Homes
  • Secluded
  • Great Schools
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Busy Main Artery
  • No Sidewalks
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 05, 2011

"Orinda with an Alpine Feel"

Tucked up in a woody area above Orinda’s main circle, is the Monterey Terrace neighborhood. With an alpine feel, the neighborhood’s lanes are filled homes that give off a Lake Tahoe sort of a vibe. That the residents are affluent is obvious from the newer model mini-vans and luxury cars that park on front drives, even though the homes are often obscured from view by pine curtains.

The majority of the homes here date to the 50’s and 60’s. They are fairly large with backyards often bordered by pine grooves—sometimes looking more like untamed forest. This means the usual problems we associate with hillside living: a certain amount of erosion during the rainy season, and the fear of forest fires during the dry. Both fears, however, are not as strong as north of Highway 24, as this section of Orinda has not come close to be threatened by fire in the way that those other sections have (to my knowledge anyway—there may have been a historical fire that ravaged this area way before my time). Many homes also manage to have swimming pools despite the hilly territory.

Overall, this is good family living except for the lack of sidewalks. This is really a car culture. Kids do not spend a lot of time riding bikes. This is a general drawback of most of Orinda, however.
Pros
  • Nice Homes
  • Very Leafy
  • Good Views
Cons
  • Fire and Erosion Fears
  • Expensive
  • No Sidewalks
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Apr 04, 2011

"Too Close to Gangland For Me"

Unlike Eastmont (which may be the most dangerous neighborhood in all of Oakland), Eastmont Hills seems to have largely escaped the worst of the violence of its western neighbors. They rarely have a murder within the confines of the neighborhood. Partly geography helps them out. There is a hilly line of trees skimming the middle of the neighborhood and providing a natural barrier to the homes beyond.

This break is also highlighted demographically, where the average household income to the east of the tree line puts residents firmly in the ranks of the middleclass, while to the west of the treeline residents are largely working class.

At the heart of Eastmont Hills is what I believe is a waste disposal plant. It is well covered so that you can’t quite make out what is past the fence and hedge. On neither of my two occasions in Eastmont have I noticed any particular smell coming from this facility, but I was not right by it on either occasion.

Like a lot of neighborhoods in Oakland, this neighborhood is made up of California Bungalows and older, smaller Ranch style homes.

The main thoroughfare through Eastmont Hills is MacArthur Blvd. on its western end. You will find a flower shop, a Uhaul, and Pharmacy and a check cashing service. Many of the windows here have bars on them and many have been boarded up so that they give the impression of being abandoned.

Parker Elementary is the main elementary for the neighborhood. By objective standards it is not a great school with mediocre test scores. When you take into consideration the area that it is in, mediocrity starts to sound like an outright accomplishment.

Another nice thing about this neighborhood is that it is in a fairly leafy area with the groove of trees seeming to bisect the neighborhood north south. Right in the middle of this woodsy area is Hillmont Drive. Because the hills start to get more steep at this section, you will find a number of homes looking out over Oakland. You will even find some modernist version of Art Deco bungalows here. Rather attractive.

The homes to west of the groove in the area closest to the gang violence, are actually fairly well taken care of. They are mostly California bungalows, with nice, well-kept front lawns.

When you get to the east of the hill where there are few views of Oakland, you start to get a bit of more isolated with lots of older Ranch homes.

I can’t quite recommend this area because of its proximity to Eastmont, but if things were to improve to the west of here, this could become a pretty nice area.
Pros
  • Cool Homes Along Hillmont
  • A Bit Tucked Away
  • Good Public Transportation
Cons
  • Too Close to Gangs
  • Older Homes
  • Waste Treatment Plant
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 04, 2011

"Good Orinda Neighborhood with a View"

Located on the southern side of Highway 24 on a relatively steep hill, the Northwood-Tara neighborhood is a typically affluent Orinda neighborhood with a view of the hills of northern Orinda and of the highway winding up towards the Caldecott.

The neighborhood is made up of large squat well-maintained Ranch style homes for the most part. A high proportion of these large residences have swimming pools and solar panels. Most are built along inclines with terraced properties.

I assume that slides and erosion are a concern here as in other hilly areas in Orinda.

Northwood-Tara does not feel quite so woodsy as neighborhoods to the north of Highway 24 do. I think this impression is due to the wideness of the lanes and the fact that they are mostly straight or with gentle curves. It may also be the fact that the hills here have fewer trees, so it simply feels less like a forest.

One of the benefits of living in this area is that you are right at the entrance to Highway 24 heading towards Lafayette and that you are within walking distance of the Village Theater and the stores right in downtown Orinda. Orinda is a bit of a sleepy town, but this is the entertainment area with five good restaurants and some businesses as well. A nice little spot when residents don’t want to head out of town.

Overall, this is a nice neighborhood, though a touch on the boring side.
Pros
  • Nice View
  • Close to the Highway, Theater, Restaurants
  • Good Homes
Cons
  • Expensive
  • No Sidewalks
  • Hillside Problems
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Apr 04, 2011

"Oakland's Most Dangerous Neighborhood?"

Unfortunately Eastmont’s claim to fame is nothing that you would want for a neighborhood you are looking to move into. On March 21, 2009, four Oakland officers were killed by Lovelle Mixon here. Two, Sgt. Mark Dunakin and Sgt. John Hege were killed when they stopped Mixon for a traffic violation and two others, SWAT Sgts. Ervin Romans and Daniel Sakai when they forced their way into the home where Mixon was barricaded. Mixon was killed at the site as well. The event made news as it was the worse loss of life in a single day for the Oakland police. A large funeral service was held for the fallen officers.

Although the murder of officers is thankfully not a common occurrence, Eastmont is no stranger to violence of this kind. Tiny, densely packed Eastmont averages about 4 murders per year. Given that the population is less than 4,000, that is one murder per 1,000 residents—the worst ratio I am aware of in all of Oakland. Thus, you might say that this is the most dangerous neighborhood in the whole of the East Bay. I would be surprised to find a neighborhood that had it much worse than this.

Driving through the neighborhood, you might not at first notice that it is a particularly dangerous area. The small, old style Ranch homes and California bungalows don’t, at first sight, seem as if they are particularly run-down or fearfully shut off. But then you turn down a particular street and you start to see more ominous signs—bars on windows, high gates around small yards, cars parked on uncared for front lawns as if they were meant to get the occupants as close to the shelter of the home as possible.

Then some worse signs: a vandalized car with broken windows and smashed headlights with no tires—a boarded up home with garbage and furniture piled up by the curb—cars with faded paint and mismatching panes parked behind the added impediment of fences or deep into the side driveway of a gated home. None of these are proof positive of the violence but they all point to an oppressed neighborhood where violence is at the forefront of people’s thought on an hourly basis.

Put simply, this feels more like a war zone than a neighborhood, more like Bosnia of twenty years ago than the United States of today.
Pros
  • Public Transportation
  • Affordable Housing
Cons
  • Murder Rate
  • Dirty
  • Dangerous
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Apr 04, 2011

"Best Area for Orinda Renters"

The Charles Hill neighborhood, along the hills just off the St. Stephens exit from Highway 24, is perhaps the most affordable area of Orinda for renters. Largely this is because the Charles Hill neighborhood encompasses the Orinda Woods section of Orinda where all of the tiny single occupancy apartments stand overlooking the highway as it winds up towards the Caldecott Tunnel. The rents here can be as low as $900, which is amazing given that the views of the valley leading to the tunnel are quite amazing. The apartments are tiny but offer Tennis Courts and pleasant hill top sidewalks perfect for walking, jogging or even biking. (There are a couple of artificial ponds up atop the aptly named Altarinda as well.)

Of course, many rents rise up much higher as well. Along Altarinda Rd. you will also find many of the Orinda City offices like the police station and several office buildings. (There is a Blood Test lab here—for example.) This is also the home of Holden High School, a tiny, but very well-liked private high school attended by a few Orinda teens and an extension of JFK University. Montessori also has a school here.

This may seem counter-intuitive given that the neighborhood is right by the freeway, but the homes here tend to skew younger than the homes in other neighborhoods in Orinda. Most of the homes in the area date to the 70’s and 80’s—even though many of the homes farther away from the freeway in other Orinda neighborhood date to the 50’s. Unlike the apartments that tend to have only 2 to 4 rooms total, the homes here are fairly large, most having 9 or more rooms, pools and large yards. You will find a lot of redwood shingles and street side garages bordered by heavy bush cover curtaining off the homes beyond.

The drawbacks of the Charles Hill neighborhood are fairly obvious. It is very expensive to own a home here and renting an apartment means living in a very confined space, which may be okay if you are single but definitely would be cramped for anyone with kids.

In addition, this is hillside living for those who own homes and that means the usual hillside problems: narrow lanes with no side walks (not good for kids to bike or walk), erosion during the rainy season, fire during the dry, wild critters who eat roses and tip garbage cans, and an Orinda city that puts a fair amount of responsibility on the shoulders of owners to care for private roads and sewage problems.

That said, this is a great place to live. If I were single and childless at my age, I would feel lucky to live in one of those little tiny apartments looking over the 24.
Pros
  • Great Little Apartments
  • Great Schools
  • Nice Tennis Courts/Views
Cons
  • Not Good For Renter with Families
  • Hillside Problems
  • Expensive for Owners
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Apr 04, 2011

"Only Bad Businesses Here"

As always in this part of Oakland, it is important to report on the number violent crimes. This neighborhood averages about 3 murders per year and with similarly high murder rates. Given that the population of the neighborhood is around 6,000, that is a 1 in 2000 chance of being killed here on any given year. Just about as bad as it gets. Even with much of the worst violence being contained to gang violence, I could not recommend this neighborhood to anyone with other options.

The central feature of this neighborhood is the decrepit Eastmont Mall on Bancroft’s southeastern edge. The mall has been in steady decline for about twenty years now, and except for a supermarket and a couple of low-end retail stores, the mall is mostly the home of county offices these days. An additional stain on its reputation is that one of its corners, where 73rd and Foothill meet, is notorious for the being just a couple of blocks from where, on Mar. 31, 2009 four Oakland Police Officers were killed by a single shooter--the worst loss in the department’s history. Needless to say, this mall is not a major destination for shoppers outside of the area.

The mall is surrounded by both some of the newest and the most ramshackle living spaces in the area. You can find several of those newer boxy, pastel colored apartment buildings here—the kind that are meant to gentrify the area and draw new blood to help Oakland improve its standard of living. Unfortunately, there are also a number of homes with dead lawns, boarded windows and faded walls. The kind of places where bed sheets have been pitched at the windows to keep out the prying light. Very depressing.

One bright spot of the neighborhood is Markham Elementary. Despite being a economically disadvantaged area where crime and poverty make having stable families difficult, Markham has managed to continue to improve its standards in the last few years. It is not a fantastic school by objective standards, but managing mediocrity in an environment such as this is an accomplishment worthy of note.

The Havenscourt section of the neighborhood—stretching out around the street by the same name—is a little better than the area around the mall. This is still a working class neighborhood, but the homes in the area are much better cared for and actually quite attractive in spots. Havenscourt Boulevard is hands down the most attractive street in the area, its wide lanes bordered by leafy sentinels. The small bungalows along Havenscourt show some signs of care and offer the hope of a possible revitalization for the area—though, as seems to always be the case for most of Oakland, this is still far into the hazy future.

For now, this is not a neighborhood I could recommend.
Pros
  • Some Nice Bungalows
  • Good Public Transportation
  • Cheap Housing
Cons
  • Decrepit Mall
  • Many Ramshackle Homes
  • Gang Violence
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 3/5
Mar 31, 2011

"Little Hope Here"

So let’s begin with what has to be one of the central concerns for anyone living in the area, violence and gang activity. There simply is no way of sugar coat it here. The six thousand residents experience about four murders a year in this neighborhood. So every year residents have a one in 1500 chance of dieing violently. That said however, most of the violence does center around gang members—so if you can avoid being pulled into to a gang or looking as if you have been you are much safer. (Though not completely given the fact that bystanders are sometimes the victims of stray bullets.)

Much of the neighborhood looks much as you might expect given what I have already told you. There are lots of older homes—lots of bungalows of course but other buildings as well. The buildings look very weather beaten here. Lawns are unkept, piles of debris sometimes fill empty lots adjacent to homes, cars have discolored patches where panels have been replaced, and graffiti tags unattended walls at every turn.

The neighborhood is home to Hugh Taylor House, a low-income housing project that is meant to serve those who cannot afford housing elsewhere. In 2004, however, the non-profit that runs this complex came under fire by homesless advocates because they were charging tenants who qualified for government assistance more than those who did not receive assistance—in effect fleecing the public and not really delivering lower cost housing. (This according to an article in the activist newspaper Street Spirit.)

Besides low income housing, the neighborhood also has some churches like New Faith Chapel, Praises Zion and St. Johns Community Church.

Perhaps the one positive of this neighborhood is the local elementary school, Greenleaf. Despite the problems with the neighborhood, Greenleaf has managed to remain a solidly average school. The school has managed to make positive improvements to student test scores in the last three years and continues to improve by leaps and bounds year after year. Much credit is given to the local principal and the new standards she has imposed. The school is not perfect, but given the difficulties it is operating under can definitely be seen as a reason for hope in a place that doesn’t seem to have many other sources for it.

Overall, however, this is not a place that I could recommend to anyone.
Pros
  • The Local School
  • Transportation
  • Churches
Cons
  • Gang Violence
  • Dirty
  • Old Homes
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 31, 2011

"Deer Yes, Tigers No"

Tiger Tail is a tiny neighborhood on the eastern end of Orinda. It is tucked up into the hills over the freeway but far enough back where you can’t really make the highway out. This area feels a lot like Lake Tahoe or Big Bear. The winding roads are filled with pines and when the wind blows you hear it in the tree tops.

This is a highly affluent neighborhood with the average household making well into the six figures. The homes here are a mix of newer and older, with a fair number of condos near the freeway and many flat Ranch and Prairie style homes in the hills. Here and there you also come across some Craftsman style homes in the Maybeck style. These redwood constructs seem as natural to this setting as they would to a ski resort to the east and they are often perched up on hillsides behind a cover of foliage.

Residents familiar with the area know that this is an alternate route to get into Orinda, and that you can follow Esperil down to the country club and Orinda Village—which some of them occasionally do.

Though this is a wonderful place to live there are some fairly obvious drawbacks. First, it is expensive. The mortgage crisis has not really made that much of a dent in the Orinda housing market and it continues to be expensive to buy or rent here (more than $2000 on average to rent). In addition, there are costs people often don’t think of when buying a home in this area. Wood decks require regular maintenance, for example, so that they do not wear out. Many of the homes built after 1980 in the Orinda area also have agreements with the city to maintain their own sewage lines and many have their own tanks which homeowners must pay to have emptied. A fair number of roads are also private and require fees from homeowners to maintain as well.

In addition to these concerns are safety concerns having to do with hillside living. Homeowners must be constantly vigilant of erosion on their properties as run off can weaken decks and flood foundations. You will see evidence on many hillsides where large plastic sheets are weighted down by sandbags to prevent the ground from becoming dangerously saturated.

In the dry season, the concern turns to fire. Reminders of the possible consequences have mostly faded, but those who have been longtime residents remember the Oakland Hills fire in the early 90’s and know the kind of devastation this can cause. Brush clearing is a must and is the responsibility of homeowners—though most residents realize that in the event of a full fledged fire no amount of brush clearing will protect them in this pine tinder box.

One more drawback of the area is that this is not really a sidewalk neighborhood. Though you can go on walks, you have to be careful of speeding cars tearing around curves at all hours of the day and night. Residents simply can’t allow their kids to bike on the streets here. Which also means that most every store run must be done by car adding to both pollution and fuel costs. That said, most homes are large enough and have enough property that kids could easily play outside without feeling overly confined.

Finally, there is also the “problem” of wildlife. Whenever you live in such a woody area, you soon come to realize that you are only really sharing your neighborhood with a number of wild critters who you will hear scampering across your roof, scurrying across your decks and crunching on the stones of your driveway. Squirrels will raid your feeders, field mice will find shelter in your basement, bees will try to hive behind your shingles, birds will try to nest in your eves, and deer will make lunch out of your rose garden if you do not watch out. For most residents these critters however are one of the great draws of the neighborhood.

As I have mentioned in other Orinda reviews, one of the central draws of the area is the schools. Orinda’s public schools are just as strong as private schools. I should also mention however that there are also several private school offerings in the area, including nearby Holden High School, a small private school in the Orinda Village area.

The central non-residential feature of the neighborhood is St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church. The church is a community hub and includes day trips and summer programs for the kids. I believe they may have a school attached to church as well.

Overall, Tiger Tail is yet another great Orinda neighborhood—especially for those that like the woodsy out-of-the-way feel, despite being in a fairly densely populated area. (The density is actually slightly above the Orinda average though you wouldn’t really notice it from driving through the neighborhood.)
Pros
  • Beautiful Homes
  • Great Schools
  • Country Feel
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Hillside Problems
  • Car Culture
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 3/5
Mar 30, 2011

"A Tale of Two Neighborhoods"

Located just to the south of Mills College, Millsmont is an unusually varied neighborhood that you could really divide into two sections with Oakdale roughly running as the dividing line.

Those to the east of Oakdale Ave. find themselves in the hilly woods of what is basically the southern section of the Oakland Hills. If one were dropped into this area without any sense of where one is, you might be forgiven for believing that you are relatively far from any metropolitan area, in the underdeveloped suburbs of a ranchy area. You might even expect to see someone on horseback coming around the next corner. That is the kind of neighborhood it is. You do have a fair number a Ranch style homes and picket fences and dirt in the place of sidewalks.

This section of Millsmont is basically a middle-class neighborhood. The school at the southern end of this section is also one of the better schools in Oakland. Burkhalter Elementary scores slightly above statewide test averages, but has shown a great deal of improvement over the last year. Overall, of the schools you could send your kid to in Oakland, it is one of the better choices.

But when you cross over Oakdale into the western section of Millsmont, you find a completely different kind of a neighborhood. Here you find lots of somewhat run down California bungalow style homes. The neighborhood is on a slight incline but the streets are fairly straight and you don’t get the feeling of being far from civilization at all.

The biggest issue here is the out of control crime. In a three-year period, 12 people were killed here. Given that the population of the whole neighborhood is only about 5 K, this is almost one in a thousand, pretty bad odds. If you look even more closely into and divide things up according Oakdale, you will find that 10 of the murders happened to the west of Oakwood (although two did happen in the eastern section of the neighborhood). This is simply too much violence to feel safe living here, I think.

Despite the dangers, there are some destinations worth braving your life for. For example, you can find a great Thai place on Macarthur—Old Weangs—that is really great and cheap. There is also a hoagie shop there.
Pros
  • Okay School
  • Woody
  • Affordable Housing
Cons
  • Crime
  • Dirty
  • Run Down
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 30, 2011

"A Devilishly Good View"

Located on the far eastern end of Orinda, right by the border with Lafayette, the appropriately named Diablo View is highly affluent woody hilltop neighborhood that offers views east towards Mt. Diablo and the privacy of secluded homes and curving hills. This is the kind of neighborhood that visitors have difficulty making their way through. GPS fails here on these winding roads and streets signs are difficult to make out. However, if you like to feel slightly away from it all while being less than a half hour away from SF, you have found your ideal home.

This section of Orinda is virtually equidistant from both Downtown Orinda and Downtown Lafayette, although it is technically part of Orinda. The majority of homes here date back either to the 50’s or the 70’s. As you might expect that means a fair number or large Ranch homes although you can also find some places with Tudor highlights. There are even some outright mansions in the area with the average home having more than 9 rooms.

This is a family neighborhood, of course, as most of Orinda is. The local elementary is either Glorietta on the other side of the freeway or Sleepy Hollow. Both are fantastic elementary schools, with Glorietta being perhaps the highest regarded of the elementaries in Orinda. In fact, the Orinda schools are widely regarded as being some of the best all the way through with students scoring consistently at the top tenth of California schools on standardized tests.

Of course, Orinda is no place for singles—not for meeting them anyway. Of course, you could come into Orinda and go to one of the restaurants or to the movie theater. There are not really any bars however if that is your scene. For that you either have to drop into the saloon in Lafayette or to head over to nearby Berkeley or Oakland.

In addition, like in many portions of Orinda, this is hillside living. That means that you have to worry about runoff during the rains and be on the watch out for mudslides. In the dry season, you need to worry about fires. Both of these require a bit of labor in terms of keeping slides from developing and in terms of clearing brush away from your home. Also, because you are so deep into the woods, you will find that you have certain non-human neighbors that will drop in every so often just to eat the flowers in your flower garden or spray your house when you try to scare them off.

Overall, this is yet another great, quiet Orinda neighborhood. Well worth a peek if you can afford it.
Pros
  • Great Homes
  • Woody and Secluded
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Hillside Living
  • Wild Animals
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 3/5
Mar 30, 2011

"The Cemetary's the Liveliest Spot"

California has at least three places involving the name Fairfax. There is a relatively well-known Fairfax down in the LA area. There is a Fairfax town up in Marin County. And there is also this Fairfax, a small, little known neighborhood in Oakland, California.

Fairfax, in Oakland, is a small working class neighborhood, a little bit to the east of Mills College. This is yet another of the neighborhoods in Oakland that we might call a bungalow city with the majority of the homes here being of that variety and dating to before the 1950’s.

The main feature of the northern part of the neighborhood is dominated by Home of Peace Cemetery—which I believe is a Jewish cemetery. This section of Fairfax is somewhat elevated and offers some okay views of the Oakland cityscape. Surrounding the cemetery are boxy apartment buildings—weather worn and ugly.

The bungalows that make up most of the rest of the neighborhood are okay but they are also a bit worn.

Crime in the area is also a bit of concern as there is about one murder in the neighborhood per year. Given there are less than three thousand residents here, this is definitely a concern anyone moving here should weigh.

In terms of the businesses in Fairfax, there isn’t much to write home about. There is an auto repair that I have never been to. There is also a cheap pizza place, Mama Rosa’s Pizza which has some pretty cheap though not very good pizza.

One positive of the neighborhood is the elementary school, Horace Mann. Although by nationwide standards it would be considered rather mediocre, it is actually one of the better elementaries in Oakland. I still would not recommend living here if can avoid it, however.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Good Public Transportation
  • Okay School
Cons
  • Crime
  • Worn Out Older Buildings
  • Bad Restaurants/Nightlife
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 22, 2011

"Remote and Wealthy"

This farthest northeast micro neighborhood of Orinda is perhaps also one of the least dense areas in the city as well. You can tell just by driving down the long leafy ways that make up this area. Along the yellowish hills one finds long driveways disappearing back to partly obscured mansions. As you can tell by looking at the residences on these streets, there had already been some homes erected in the Fifties, but farther back along the hills you find the newer constructs, built mostly during the Seventies.

This is really the province of the immensely rich. Even in the older portion of Orinda View where the large Fifties homes remain and the homes are more tightly bunched, you still find yards that are perfectly manicured and homes that look brand new.

There isn’t much else to this portion of Orinda—its just the homes and the hills. Perfect for those wealthy Orinda residents that want not to be bothered.
Pros
  • Away from It All
  • Giant Homes
  • Attractive Scenery
Cons
  • Very Expensive
  • Wildlife
  • A Bit Remote
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 22, 2011

"Berkeley's Older Sister "

Like UC Berkeley, Mills College is one of the oldest schools in all of the Bay Area. Founded in 1852, the college is an all women’s college at the undergraduate level, although it has both male and female graduate students and faculty. Mills is a small college with only a total of about 1600 students, but it is one of the best regarded schools on the West Coast. One of the benefits of this smaller campus is that students get small classes with the student-instructor ratio of 11:1. When you compare this to a huge campus like UC Berkeley where the English Department alone has twice as many students and the typical lecture course has 60 students, you get a sense of the difference.

The fact that this is an all women’s school with such a long history also adds to the quality of the education at Mills. Discussing your typical feminist text in a classroom where everyone is female both allows the nuances of feminist positions to be explored while creating a generally more open discussion. (On the other hand, the lack of a male perspective from the undergraduate level may also limit certain perspectives, but this is the cost-benefit of this kind of a setting.) Of course, it is not all about feminism here—they have a graduate business program and a computer science major as well.

The campus itself is much like the Berkeley Campus. It has a number of older buildings slowly added onto the campus over time and in some ways expressing the history of campus itself. Unlike Berkeley, there is a stronger sense of theme amongst the buildings, with the Mission style predominating. The campus was a seminary when it was bought by the Mills’.

The area surrounding the campus is not the safest area in Oakland. Gang violence is an unfortunate fact of life in most of the surrounding neighborhoods. However, the campus does have its own security and night guards and there have not been any notable incidents on campus.

The campus has an art gallery; athletics facility that includes pools, tennis courts, etc.; botanic garden (the dorms have fragrant narcissi in front as I recall); a children’s school run by the teachers and graduate students from the graduate education program; a library, and multiple theaters including a Greek outdoor amphitheatre often used by the theater performance program.

On a personal note, I have personally known some of the women from Mills and I have found them to be committed and caring agents of change. A really wonderful, intimate campus.
Pros
  • Great Sisterly Environment
  • Great Facilities
  • Excellent Education
Cons
  • Expensive Tuition
  • Old Dorms
  • Dangerous Surrounding Neighborhoods
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 22, 2011

"For Huckleburies With Silver Spoons"

For those of the fabulously rich who like to feel themselves well away from the hustle and bustle of civilization, there is Sundown Terrace. Tucked deep in the “backwoods” of Orinda, this micro neighborhood is largely located along a north facing hill. Living here one definitely has a feel of being away from it al. The large, almost mansion like homes located here usually have good views of the rolling tree covered Contra Costa hills.

Not that this area caters to the typical “country bumpkin.” The sprawling homes often feature pools and tennis courts as part of their features. Unlike some of the other neighborhoods in the area, the homes here spread out enough where the nearest neighbors might only be around the corner and out of sight or where only a handful of neighborhoods might share a particular stretch. You rarely catch sight of more than two homes on the same street at the same time. This is still hillside living which means a fair number of car ports and hikes down to the homes below or hikes up to those above.

Sundown Terrace, however, is not far up into the mountains; it is more of a hill really. So, although you have some problems with erosion as you might have on the western end of Orinda, these are less pronounced here. On the other hand, because you are deep into the woody uninhabited area near the Breones Reservoir you do get a fair number of wild, furry visitors especially at night. Skunks, raccoons, and deer are the most common interlopers along with stray cats, but occasionally you will find evidence of other kinds of creatures.

Overall, a great spot for families (Sleepy Hollow elementary and the schools of Orinda in general are great) and for those that love to feel as if they are living out in nature. If you can afford it, of course. (Most homes here average 1.7 Mil.)
Pros
  • Lots of Privacy
  • Giant Homes
  • Quiet
Cons
  • Wild Critters
  • Remote
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Mar 21, 2011

"A Quiant Little Bungalow Village by Mills"

Located just to the west of Mills College, the Maxwell Park neighborhood is a bit of a hidden gem. On the face of it, Maxwell Park may seem like just another Oakland neighborhood filled with California bungalows, but this middle class neighborhood has a bit more to offer I think.

First, although it is indeed yet another bungalow city with homes dating to pre-WWII, there are some streets in this old neighborhood that are just beautifully kept. Many of the hillside streets in Maxwell park feature bungalows painted in various pastel tones—darker purplish blues, lime greens and creams—the kinds of colors that when you first arrive in the East Bay you find ugly, but that have a hidden quaintness and vitality that grows on you over time, like that little blemish on a lover’s cheek that you first dislike but later love. Though the homes are virtually all bungalows, there is a constant variation in the types and arrangements that make them quite captivating for those with a soft spot for architectural aesthetics. Streets will often feature bungalows with walk-ups on the uphill side while street level recessed entryways mark the downhill side. The front lawns also become a space for individual expression with some residents opting for simple mulched front yard fenced in by counter high chain link fencing, while those with more rococo sensibilities go wild with the topiary, mixing bushy hedges with squat tropical palms to beautiful effect.

Things are not perfectly kept here, of course. The bushes are not perfectly cut, the streets not perfectly paved. But the place feels real and authentic in a way that many places no longer do. These are not the bland condos of newer gated communities that have become the standard of modern middle-class living. No one living in Maxwell Park needs a street number to tell where they live—in fact, they don’t even need street addresses for visitors, most homes are individual enough where a simply description would be enough to identify their homes beyond a doubt, “Ours is the pea-colored bungalow with arbor windows and mulched front lawn directly across from the purple walk-up with barn red doors and bushy hedges.” There is definitely a sense of place here.

The area is not, of course, perfect. Though most murders do not occur deep within the heart of Maxwell park (only one was clearly within the neighborhood between 2007 and 2009), the nearby neighborhoods are extremely dangerous. Six murders happened right at the edges of the neighborhood and a good two dozen just beyond in the surrounding area, so this definitely needs to be a consideration for anyone thinking of setting down stakes here.

In terms of education, Maxwell Park Elementary is, unfortunately pretty awful if standardized tests tell us anything about the quality of instruction. (Residents seem to mostly like the school, however.) A good alternative might be nearby Horace Mann elementary, whose scores though not spectacular are much better. There is also a private school within Mills College that could be a good bet.

The strong sense of community is also reflected in the number of churches supported by the community. I know of at least a half dozen ranging from everything from Baptist to Mormon. (There is a also a nearby Muslim school.) So there is not only a strong sense of spirituality here but also a wide range of influences. A good sign overall, I think.

Overall, I well-kept secret within the heart of Oakland.
Pros
  • Modestly Attractive Homes
  • Adjacent to Mills
  • Good Transportation
Cons
  • Crime
  • No Good Nightlife
  • Old Home Problems
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 21, 2011

"For the Swim and Tennis Club Set"

Like the Sleepy Hollow, which it partly overlaps, Orinda Downs is a super rich micro neighborhood at the far north of the tiny bedroom community of Orinda. The beautiful homes in this area are large and beautifully landscaped. The vast majority of the homes here were first built between the 1940’s and the 1960’s. That means lots of Prairie style homes and ranch style home with long driveways and occasional front gates with monikers (as if you were in Texas). The homes are so well-kept in this area however, that despite the older styles, they look as if they were just finished being built only days before. Everything looks as if it has recently been prepared for an open house. The homes seem freshly painted, driveways newly cemented, bushes artfully trimmed, and lawns well-watered—all the details of wealth well attended to. The lanes here, though slightly elevated, are mostly made up of long straight aways, making for one of the few spots in the northern section of Orinda perfect for kids to bicycle or for a Thanksgiving pick-up game of football right in the middle of one of the side streets or cul-de-sacs.

As I mentioned in my review of Sleepy Hollow, the schools here are outstanding. Given that four of five residents are married, this really is—like most of Orinda—a good place to raise kids in a safe, family-oriented environment.

The one venue in this neighborhood is the Sleepy Hollow Swim and Tennis Club. As the title implies, they have an Olympic size pool here, a pleasant shaded picnic area, good changing room and tennis courts. Weekdays it is largely the province of stay-at-home moms in their little white tennis skirts, socializing and staying fit. In the summer, families come here to sun themselves or have a cooling swim. They also have events every so often, like water polo lessons—a favorite of my oldest.

The draw backs of the area are fairly obvious. It is, first, very expensive. This really is the province of CEO’s and corporate lawyers. The second obvious problem with the area is that you are living on hills near the edge of “civilization,” which means hillside problems having to do with erosion and runoff. There are also a fair number of wild animals here from deer and raccoons to skunks and field mice.

Overall, I think most families would love to live in a place like this.
Pros
  • Beuatiful Homes
  • Quiet
  • Good Swima and Tennis Club
Cons
  • Expensive Homes
  • No Nightlife
  • Wildlife Problems
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Mar 21, 2011

"Okay Schools but a Little Dangerous"

Frick is the neighborhood just to the southwest of Mills College. Despite this proximity however, it is not very popular with Mills students or instructors. You will not find a higher percentage of females or students in this area relative to the overall population. In fact, a look at the demographics reveals that the average female Frick resident is in her thirties and works in the service industry.

Although Mills students tend to live on campus and this certainly is a contributing factor to the lack of students living in the surrounding areas, the other reason is that the Frick neighborhood may simply feel a touch unsafe to students. Every year there is at least one murder in Frick. This is not high for Oakland, but a one in 3000 chance of being killed may sound a bit high for the average Mills student. (Of course, the chance of being killed in the neighborhood are actually not that high, unless you are male and involved in a gang, not really the typical Mills student description. If you look at the four murders that occurred in Frick between 2007 and 2009, all the victims were male—mostly in their twenties--and all were seemingly gang-related.)

Despite the gang problems, Frick does have a solid working class community. Homes here are largely from before the World War II era, but they are relatively well-cared for. These are largely California bungalows with bushy topiary arranged on the front lawn. Very pleasant on most streets actually.

Another positive aspect of the community is the local charter school, Unity High. Unity High has an excellent record of taking its low income students (90% of which are Hispanic and 80% qualify for free lunch), and preparing them for college. 9 of 10 students graduate (far higher than the Oakland average) and 2/3 of which successfully enter college (both high for Oakland). It is not a perfect school, receiving below average scores on nationwide standardized tests, but given the poverty and multi-lingual barriers the school faces, even these seemingly mediocre scores should be viewed as an accomplishment. Many other schools in the area don’t manage these strains half as well.
Pros
  • Mills College Adjacent
  • Good Charter School
  • Modestly Nice Older Homes
Cons
  • Violence
  • Little Night Life
  • A Bit Run Down
Recommended for
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Mar 18, 2011

"Evil Ink and Zamorano"

Like many of the neighborhoods in the Fruitvale district, this is an older neighborhood filled with pre-World War II bungalows and Victorians. The neighborhood is twice as dense as the rest of Oakland—which is also typical of Fruitvale. And, of course, another thing that makes this typical is the crime rate that is also high for Oakland. Even though the population for this neighborhood is only about 4,000, about 2 murders occur here every year. Pretty bad.

There are, however, some really cool places here. For example, if you love giant burritos for dirt cheap, you will want to drop into El Taco Zamorano right on Foothill. It is right down the street from one of the best named tattoo parlors around—Evil Ink Tattoo. Now I am not much of a tattoo fan, having never been inked myself—but this seems like the kind of name I would choose if I were looking for a dive bar feel for my tattoo parlor.

This is definitely not a poser sort of an area however that only pretends to be into the gang way of life, as you will note by the bail bonds store right next to Evil Ink. As a general rule, if a bails bond store is in your neighborhood, this is a sure sign that a significant segment of your population is having regular run-ins with the law.

One of the positive things about Jefferson is the neighborhood’s attempts to answer problems of overcrowding and poor academics by setting a strong foundation for future schooling. Along one stretch of Jefferson you will find three schools. One is Global Family Elementary. Global Family is a public school that takes an interesting approach to teaching. They teach their pupils half the time in English and half the time in Spanish. (Not just the ESL students—all its pupils.) The majority of the residents of Jefferson are Latino, but studies have shown that the approach of teaching two languages early in education helps increase a whole series of cognitive abilities including pattern recognition and vocabulary acquisition. Right next to it is Learning Without Limits. LWL’s approach is to set students on a path they hope will lead to college by including the arts as part of the critical thinking process. The third school is the Jefferson Early Childhood Development Center. I don’t really know much about it except that it is just a kindergarten.

Despite these positive steps, by most objective standards these school still rank near the bottom of most measurements.

At the far eastern end, there is also Brookdale Park which has a nice baseball field but which is largely underused.

Overall, not a neighborhood most people would want to live in.
Pros
  • A Couple of Good Businesses
  • Good Transportation
  • Affordable Housing
Cons
  • Crime
  • Poor Schools
  • Run-Down Looking
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 18, 2011

"No Sand Here, Just Lots o' Green"

Sandhill is the leafy hill neighborhood just to the north of the Orinda Country Club. It contains much of the country club’s golf course and Wagner Ranch Elementary. Like Sleepy Hollow, the neighborhood had it big growth spurt in the 1950’s, though you will have a hard time catching sight of many of the homes in this neighborhood to verify that they are indeed Ranch Homes because the windy roads are bordered by heavy tree cover.

Though most of the homes were built during the Baby Boom era, many have been refurbished and updated. These are large homes in many cases with wide stretches of land with pools, tennis courts and sometimes even decorative fountains. Along the curves of certain hilltop ways (like Vista Del Mar, for example) sight lanes open up and you can see north past the reservoir to the tapering Contra Costas. The homes along these stretches vary in architectural styles from touches of Tudor architecture to two story Prairie style homes. The latest model luxury cars parked along the immaculately cobbled front driveways and the quaintly arranged front lawns (so beautifully done that you would not allow your pouch to defecate on such a work of artifice without feeling as if a docent were about to jump out from behind a bush to take away Rover in hand cuffs for his temerity). The neighborhood is right out of picture book at times.

Of course, to enjoy such rarified air on a regular basis, you will have to pay the hefty price of admission. Most Sandhill homeowners (virtually no renters here) are among the upper management and owners of Bay Area firms, or high priced corporate attorneys that drive into the city to legal firms with their last names as part of the firms’ titles.

Sandhill families either send their kids to Sleepy Hollow Elementary or Wagner Ranch, both outstanding for their academic achievements, though those at Wagner Ranch sometimes are forced to mingle with the riff-raff from the poorer parts of Orinda—some of which barely break into the six figures (the horror!). Wagner Ranch border the Orinda Sports Field with its baseball courts that are largely puddled through the fall and lightly frosted by morning due through much of the winter. In the spring as things dry up, it is often used for little league practices though I haven’t noticed any actual games in the summer.

It is a wonderfully bucolic area, well worth the high costs for those who can afford them.
Pros
  • Beautiful Mansions
  • Great Schools
  • Bucolic Area
Cons
  • Expensive
  • A Bit Snooty
  • Hillside Living
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Mar 18, 2011

"Average Laurel Neighborhood "

Allendale is a fairly typical residential neighborhood for this section of Oakland. It is a densely packed bungalow and apartment city with about twice the density of Oakland’s average. The majority of the homes in the neighborhood are pre-WWII bungalows of varying degrees of maintenance. There are also a number of old wood apartment buildings and converted multiple occupant living arrangements. This is one of the areas of Oakland that is old enough where it is likely to have difficulties if a major earthquake occurred here.

The neighborhood has the typical features of a poorer neighborhoods: a liquor store, a Laundromat, a check cashing service, and a few churches. There is also a community health center, a Wallgreens and a barbershop.

Vientien Café is one of the few draws for strangers to the neighborhood despite bordering highway 580. Although it doesn’t look like much from the outside and the inside just features a few tiny tables, the food here is outstanding (try the Angel Wings—yummmmm!). Well worth braving the dangers of the area.

Allendale Elementary is not a great school, though my understanding is that it is a big improvement from nearby Jefferson which is simply unable to keep up with the needs of a diverse racial and ethnic community. Allendale has some more extra-curricular activities and a generally more positive attitude, but nothing to write home about. Allendale Recreation Center—basically a baseball field—doubled as Allendale Elementary’s play area and is also a community resource. (Brookdale Park also borders Allendale on the western edge.)

As to crime, the area is sadly, fairly typical for the Fruitvale District, known for its gang violence. Allendale’s 5,000+ residents experience one to two murders every year. This would be pretty bad for most areas, but is just middle of the road for the Laurel District.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Okay School
  • Vientien Cafe
Cons
  • Gang Violence
  • Old and Run Down
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 17, 2011

"A No Header--It's Great!"

Named after the upstate New York town that Washington Irving made famous, Sleepy Hollow could not be a better setting for a tribute to that classic American story, nestled away on the farthest northern end of Orinda as it is. Even for those just barely familiar with the famous story, the names of the streets and lanes will ring a bell: Ichabod Lane, Washington Lane, Irving Lane, and Sleepy Hollow Road for example. For real fans of the story, they will find more obscure allusions such as Van Tassel Lane and Van Ripper Lane. There are even a few little inside jokes here for the true Irving fan, such as having Ichabod Lane dead end in Berrybrook Hollow.

But you need never have heard of Irving nor his rendition of the tale of the Headless Horseman. In fact, even if you did a Rip Van Winkle right through all of that stuff in elementary school, you can still fall in love with this neighborhood’s quaint upscale seclusion. A drive through the long leafy lanes of this area reveals a neighborhood occupied by very wealthy families (75% are married and most own their homes). It is not so much that the homes are large and opulent—they actually are somewhat modest given the six figure average incomes of most of the residents here, but rather it’s the little details that make you feel as if you are driving through a model home catalogue. You can tell that the big building spurt for this neighborhood was the 1950’s as the vast majority of the homes are either fairly classic Prairie or, slightly less often, Ranch homes. What exudes wealth is the picture perfect exactness of the front lawns where topiary is arranged just so into perfect patterns so they at once seem just a touch wild, while still indicating a carefully choreographed layout. Driveways are often measured out with attractive weathered brick trim (which also picks up along the sidewalk and walkway). The homes are set well back from the lane so that an arriving visitor approaches the entrance a good enough distance so they can be greeted before entering the home. Many lawns are also guarded by partially obscured ceramic gnomes.

(Excuse the tangent, but this in fact reminds me of a humorous story. Back in college, I delivered pizzas here in Orinda for a few months. At night, Orinda really is a bit difficult to negotiate if you are not wholly familiar with the area. Many lanes have little lighting. The fact that my vision was starting to go and I had not yet realized it probably didn’t help either. One wintery night (a very Sleepy Hollow sort of night now that I think of it) I was sent here to deliver a pizza, and I remember driving up to the home and thinking how strange it was that they should have a grass driveway in this neighborhood. I delivered the pizza, got my money, but got a strange vibe from the homeowner who was staring at me disconcertedly. As I turned around to go, I suddenly realized that behind the short hedge that I thought marked the end of his property was actually the drive way. With the homes light now behind me I realized I had driven right up onto his lawn barely missing one of these tiny gnomes. As I pulled back, I could distinctly make out the marks of my tire tracks right across the guy’s lawn. I am actually surprised he didn’t complain and get me fired.)

Sleepy Hollow Elementary is also an outstanding school, perfectly nestled right up against the reservoir so that the students are gifted with a bucolic setting for their studies. (Which they of course take for granted being the scions of the privileged and successful.)

Overall, however, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Orinda.
Pros
  • Very Bucolic
  • Great Schools
  • Beautiful Homes
Cons
  • Very Expensive
  • Remote
  • Boring for Singles
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 1/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 1/5
Mar 17, 2011

"A War Zone"

This is the center of the Fruitvale District, giving the area both its name and the eponymous BART Station. As you might expect given this area’s reputation, this is a major crime area. Despite being home to barely 1600 residents, this tiny neighborhood averages about three murders each year. That means that if you live in Fruitvale Station, you technically have a one in 500 chance of being murdered every year. Think about what this means. If you live fifty years in this neighborhood, there is a one in ten chance that you will be murdered. These are pretty bad odds, it seems to me. (Especially if you consider that in some other neighborhoods we had noted that a one in 3000 chance of being killed was what we would consider dangerous.

Of course, there are some mitigating factors here. For one thing, this is a neighborhood that brings in a lot of outsiders. There are a lot of newer box stores here, for example, which means a lot of outside foot traffic that would not otherwise be in this neighborhood. The BART station is also here, which means that many people are just passing thorough the area on their way somewhere else.

Outside of the BART station and the newer box stores, much of the rest of this neighborhood is really showing the signs of age and ill maintenance. The homes have loose boards and missing shingles. There are a lot of trucks here as construction is one of the main jobs in this neighborhood.

Railroad tracks also run through the center of the neighborhood, contributing not only to the noise from the freeway but also to the noise from the BART. There are a few Mexican restaurants in the area but it is simply not safe enough to venture there.

Put simply, it is just too dangerous to venture into, even in the daytime.
Pros
  • Inexpensive Housiing
  • Good Transportation
  • Good Box Stores
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • Gangs
  • Dirty
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 12, 2011

"Ranch Homes and Raccoons"

The tiny Claremont neighborhood of Orinda is right across Camino Pablo from the Country Club neighborhood. It rises up into the hills towards Tilden Park, but unlike the El Toyonal neighborhood, it offers no outlet to the Berkeley Area. The neighborhood dates from the 1950’s as is evident by the high number of Ranch homes that make up the area (though, of course, many have been remodeled and repaved). The cul-de-sac neighborhood offers winding roads and good views. The homes are not stunningly beautiful like in some of the spectacularly affluent sections of Orinda (Claremont is contented with just being “very” affluent), but they offer a quiet almost bucolic feel to them.

Yards also often have a natural feel to them, with bushes allowed to grow somewhat at will—not many manicured lawns here. Potted plants and backyard vegetable gardens are a popular pastime, and it is not unusual to hear the crow of a morning cock or the clucking of pet hens. It is not so much that there are a lot of Huck Finns around here, but more that a lot of Orinda locals like to play the husbandry game just for fun, and of course for the fresh eggs. A lot of folks around here love to feel close to nature and raise their kids among redwoods and butterflies.

Of course, hens have to be locked up in protective cages or they will become lunch for some of the wild animals that are the neighbors of anyone living here at the edge of Orinda. Residents often wake to hear stags and deer crunching around on the stone driveways on summer nights—a menace to vegetable and rose gardens as well. Raccoons and skunks are also a common sight, which means the occasional skunking to perfume the morning air and sometimes a unexpected mess on garbage pickup day. Stray cats make their homes under porches and, when in heat, their catcalls can wake all except for the most sound of sleepers.

This is also hillside living, so when the winter rains come homeowners have to be on the look out for loosened earth. Shifting earth often adds costs to home maintenance and can be a concern especially in some of the older homes not originally built to code. The wet mossy winter weather also means that wood porches must be maintained to avoid even more expensive replacements later. During the summer months, fire fears become the main worry as the leafy area starts to feel more like a tinder box. Even far away fires will clothe the trees with an ominous burnt scent and sometimes, when fires are close enough, the air quality can be enough to cause eye irritation and headaches. The city requires owners to keep brush cleared and trees trimmed back from the already narrow roadways and homeowners are often not allowed to attach themselves directly to the sewage system, so sump systems are a common headache in this neck of the woods as well.

The proximity to Wagner Ranch Elementary and Downtown Orinda, makes this a perfect neighborhood for those who prefer to hoof it and keep their fuel costs down. Folks tend to live here for a good long while so the whole place has a pleasant small town feel where it is not unusual for neighbors to get together socially or to get together to fix common problems. In some areas of Orinda neighbors keep up their roads through neighborhood associations, which are also useful when problems with the city occur. All this also means that your neighbors are likely to know your business and you theirs.

Overall, a really pleasant, laid back place to set down stakes.
Pros
  • Very Leafy
  • Quiet
  • Good Family Living
Cons
  • Hillside Headaches
  • Expensive
  • No Nightlife
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Mar 11, 2011

"Lake Cascade and the Country Club Set"

As the name indicates, Orinda Country Club is the area of Orinda that surrounds the country club. It is just off Orinda Village, the heart of Orinda proper. In a town known locally for its affluence, Orinda Country Club is especially opulent. First, there is the country club itself. On its northern end, it is a sprawling golf course that uses the slightly rolling topography to its advantage. In the middle of the neighborhood however, is the Club House with its tennis courts, pools and dining halls. It was built in 1924, is in the Spanish Mediterranean style, and includes a banquet hall lavish enough that those who can afford it often choose it as a wedding venue. On its eastern end there is Lake Cascade which although shaped to look like a natural lake and complete with ducks that cross it (and occasionally the road that circles it) is actually a reservoir. (It dates back to 1921.)

Around Lake Cascade and the country club, the large, almost mansion sized homes stare down over the water. The area is very hilly and woody, and given to picturesque mists and fogs. When it rains, the disturbed water takes on dark hues, and when it is sunny one feels as if you are in a small town.

The northern border of the neighborhood is Miner Road, somewhat of a straight away that residents use as their own personal racetrack. Some of the homes that sneak off to themselves in this section are large Prairie style constructions with attractive wrap around terraces.

Many arteries ramify out from the lake road, Camino Sobrante. These homes often are not as large and lavish as those right around the lake (with some exceptions), but they are still quite large and beautiful by any standard. Many continue the Spanish Revival style of the Country Clubhouse.

On the far south of the neighborhood where the hill rises to its greatest heights, there are a number of smallish town homes in beautifully manicured complexes overlooking the Highway 24 traffic as it heads to and from the Caldecott Tunnel. These small dwellings are by far the most affordable of the neighborhood though I suspect most would find them out of their range financially.

About a quarter of all the residents of this neighborhood are white collar managers of companies—often CEO’s and CFO’s. They are about the only ones that can afford the million dollar homes here.
Pros
  • Beautiful Homes
  • Good Country Club
  • Right By Town
Cons
  • No Side Walks
  • Expensive
  • Little Townhomes
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 1/5
Mar 11, 2011

"Cheap Tacos"

This neighborhood is in the heart of the Fruitvale District, which you probably know means that you take your life in your hands a bit if you are going to venture here. About one person gets killed in this neighborhood per year, so you would have to be pretty unlucky to actually lose your life here. Nevertheless, crime is high so if you are headed here, you should keep your wits about you.

That said, there are a few places worthy of mention here. If you are looking for very cheap and authentic Mexican food, you should try Taquaria Campos on foothill. Although it doesn’t have a particularly inviting ambiance—unless you are into bars on the windows—it does have excellent Mexican food. It is one of those places where the cook really takes care in making the simple food. Well worth it. There is also a cheap Chinese food place known for its fried rice right across the street from the high school but it is kind of hit or miss.

As to living in this neighborhood? I wouldn’t really recommend it, mostly because of the crime. The houses are fairly typical of Oakland—basically it is bungalow city all the way through--small lots, with homes dating to pre-WWII and pretty much showing their age. In addition, the streets are kind of dirty and potholed—clearly tax payer dollars are not trickling down to here. And, of course, where ever there is an unattended wall you will see gang-graffiti scrawled.

This is also a densely packed neighborhood with roughly three times the density of Oakland’s average. That’s a lot of people piled up on each other. As with any neighborhood where this is the case, there are a fair number of boxy apartment complexes. There is a particularly ugly monster on 36th Street. It just sprawls out looking more like a poorly maintained prison than anything else. Very unappealing.

In terms of transportation, there are bus lines on 35th and on Foothill. You are also near the Fruitvale BART station, which means you can be virtually anywhere in the East Bay or San Francisco in less than an hour.
Pros
  • Cheap Tacos
  • Good Transportation
  • Affordable Homes
Cons
  • Crime
  • Dirty
  • Old Homes
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 4/5
Mar 11, 2011

"Bad Except for St. Elizabeths and Mercy"

Let’s begin with the most pertinent fact about this neighborhood, it is in the Fruitvale district, right next to the epicenter of it, the Fruitvale BART station area. This, as anyone who lives in Oakland knows, means gang violence and related crime. And this is indeed what you find here. Between 2007 and 2009 there were six murders at the edges of this neighborhood, with a solid two dozen in the surrounding neighborhoods. Although there were no such murders in the middle of the residential area of St. Elizabeth, this is still not the place where you would want to try to raise your kids.

That said. This is what else you should know about the neighborhood. St. Elizabeth is centered around St. Elizabeth High School, a private catholic school that is well liked by those who attend. St. Elizabeth focuses on preparing its students for the college experience and is in sharp contrast to nearby Arise High School with its 2 of 10 rating on the Great Schools website. St. Elizabeth’s student body is made up of low income minority students, almost half of which come from single parent households. The majority of students are Hispanic, with about a third being African American, roughly the proportions in the surrounding neighborhood itself. The school offers scholarships and has the usual Catholic school uniforms. Overall, it seems to be a positive influence in a neighborhood with a number of other problems.

This is a densely packed neighborhood with roughly three times the population density of other neighborhoods in Oakland. In part, this is because of the many boxy apartment buildings that characterize much of the neighborhood. One of the benefits of this high density, of course, is that this is a highly affordable area in terms of rent, with the average being only about $800.

On the northeastern end of the neighborhood is Mercy Retirement center. Although it started long ago as a Catholic institution, Mercy is now a non-denominational retirement center. They are very outward looking and help keep their residents vital by offering them opportunities to help others in the surrounding community, as well as to stay active through lecture series and similar events.

As far as restaurants and similar offering, there is the outdoor mall near the Fruitvale BART to the west, but pretty average offerings otherwise. It is mostly the KFC on Fruitvale and then a number of taquarias. Not much to write home about but better than nothing.

Overall, I cannot recommend living in this neighborhood because of the crime worries, but I do think there are some redeemable qualities about it. If one day it can manage the safety issue, it could definitely become a good neighborhood in which to live.
Pros
  • Good Catholic School
  • Good Retirement Center
  • Close to BART and Shopping Area
Cons
  • Crime
  • Crowded
  • Dirty
Recommended for
  • Retirees
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Mar 11, 2011

"An Itsy Bitsy Gang Neighborhood"

Like many of the neighborhoods in this area of Oakland just to the west of MacArthur Freeway, tiny Bartlett (barely seven city blocks total) is a densely packed residential neighborhood. And as in the other adjacent neighborhoods, the most common kind of housing here are California bungalows dating from before 1939. These home vary in quality. Some have been very well maintained while others look their ages, as if they have been around for more than three quarters of a century. The nicer homes in Bartlett have nice bushy front lawns, often with decorative topiary.

On the western end of the neighborhood along Humboldt Street, the bungalows give way to uninviting apartment buildings and leafier homes with backs to the creek that forms Bartlett’s western border. The high number of these boxy apartment rows account in part for the high population density of area—about twice as high as that of the rest of Oakland.

On the occasions when I have driven by the area, I have found it a little depressing with garbage strewn about the sidewalks, broken beer bottles and clutches of seemingly aimless young men with nothing better to do then congregate outside. In 2009, a man was murdered right along this stretch, so the impression that this a gang area is definitely not an illusion.

Put simply, I would not feel safe living in or near these apartment buildings.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Diverse
  • Good Transportation
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • Dirty
  • Crowded
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Mar 04, 2011

"Temple and Arcade Only Highlights"

Down by Foothill Blvd., in this neighborhood you have an interesting stretch of urban businesses. Besides that usual KFC and taquerias that are fixtures of many Oakland neighborhoods, this area is also home to a jewelry store and the Cyberworld Café, an arcade. And, for those who would rather meditate on something other than Centipede, just next door you find the True Buddha Viyaja Temple. The Buddhist temple is committed to spreading good “dharma” to all and to teaching the “fun-damentals” of Buddhism to all. Oh yes, and they also offer kung fu classes.

From this motley assortment of establishments along Foothill, the rest Peralta Hacienda extends up in a long swath to almost the freeway. Distinctive to this neighborhood, is the column of trees along the creek that bisect it so that many streets end in tree barred cul-de-sacs. Unlike much of Oakland, where the vast majority of the homes are California bungalows built before World War II, the Peralta Hacienda neighborhood is notable in that almost half of its homes were built in the 50s and 60s. This is virtually unnoticeable however near Foothill where the homes are still dominated by older, somewhat rundown looking Bungalows.

Where you do notice the newer structures is on the northeastern end of the neighborhood where rows of 60’s style apartment complexes seem to pop-up out of nowhere. These newer structures are not an improvement on the nearby bungalows, however. They have an uninviting concrete look to them, looking down on a central driveway filled with carports rather than a hospitable fountain or grassy walkway. These are the kind of complexes that make you feel locked in rather than protected from the outside. Garbage also litters much of the area around them adding to the feeling of things being dilapidated. Definitely not the place you want to raise a family.

The neighborhood is home to a few different schools, including Calvin Simmons Middle School. I don’t know much about Calvin Simmons but if it anything like the surrounding elementary schools that feed into it, then you probably don’t want to send your kids to it.

The neighborhood has the same crime problems as much of the surrounding area which is the major drawback of living here. Crime and gang violence make it a less than promising area. I don’t think most people would choose to live here if they weren’t force to by economic circumstances.
Pros
  • Viyaja Temple
  • Arcade
  • Public Transportation
Cons
  • Crime
  • Ugly Apartment Buildings
  • Dirty
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Mar 04, 2011

"Could Be a Good Spot One Day"

Upper Peralta Creek is a tiny quarter mile neighborhood at the far eastern end of what is referred to as the Fruitvale District. Fruitvale is known as one of the most dangerous areas in Oakland. The neighborhood here, despite being only about a quarter of a mile in size, is home to some 3,000 residents. There have been 2 murders at the edges of this neighborhood between 2007 and 2009. Even if you consider these to be more outside the borders of Upper Peralta Creek, you still must consider the dangers of living in an area surrounded by other dangerous neighborhoods. This is the obvious negative when it comes to the Upper Peralta neighborhood.

There are some positives to the neighborhood however, if you are willing to brave the crime problems here. The neighborhood’s location up and away from Fruitvale BART gives it a little bit of a buffer from the worst of the crime problems in the area. Even though it is close to the freeway, Upper Peralta does have some modestly attractive streets. The California bungalows that characterize Oakland in general, and Upper Peralta Creek in specific, are here well-kept and not altogether unattractive. They are reminiscent of the some of the neighborhoods in the Berkeley Flats, though here there is a bit of a slope to the neighborhood.

Though there are a fair number of apartments in the neighborhood, they are not stacked one next to another, so you do not get that oppressive feel of an apartment city.

The closest elementary school is Fruitvale Elementary, which does not rank well in terms of academic performance. Given the gang problems and the poor schools, this is probably not the neighborhood for raising a family if you can avoid it.

Overall, this could be a good neighborhood if they would get crime under control and improve the schools, but as it stands, it is not where I would want to live.
Pros
  • Quiet
  • Nice Older Bungalows
  • Freeway Access
Cons
  • Crime
  • Old Home Problems
  • No Supermarket
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Mar 03, 2011

"You'll Pray to Get Out Alive!"

Okay, I'm exaggerating a bit, but still.

Home to Patten University, Patten is at the heart of Oakland’s notorious Fruitvale District. The neighborhood however, is not particularly dangerous for the area—although it is certainly not safe. The nearly 3000 residents see about one murder in their small, densely packed neighborhood every year. This is pretty bad by most standards but not by the standards of the Fruitvale District—known for the local gang violence.

Tiny Patten College is a green-lawned little campus near the southern end of the neighborhood. Patten is a co-educational religious school that has been an Oakland fixture since World War II. The University has an on campus chapel and also runs a school just off campus. It is well liked by those looking for a religious perspective in their higher education.

Down by Foothill Blvd., there are some businesses like a Walgreens Pharmacy and a Kragen Auto Parts, some much needed economic stimulus for this downtrodden area, so often overlooked by much of corporate America. The rest of the neighborhood south of campus is mostly made up of older apartment buildings with a some slightly newer constructions dating to the 50’s and 60’s. Everything in this area has a fairly rundown look to it.

There are some businesses along Fruitvale as well, though the neighborhood’s reputation tends to scare most outsiders from dropping by these joints. There is one place I have to mention though. If you are in the mood for a good greasy burger and fries and your buddy just wants some Mongolian beef—or if you just want to find a good filling meal for under $10 (heck, maybe even for under $5 if you order right)—you should give Judy’s Burger’s a try. Really worth it. If you are afraid to hang around because of the neighborhood—take it to go.
Pros
  • Judy's Burgers
  • Diverse
  • Affordable
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • Run Down
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Mar 03, 2011

"Drop Out of School"

This tiny neighborhood (its barely an eighth of a square mile total) stretches from Brookdale to the MacArthur Freeway. School is a densely packed neighborhood however, squezzing in three times the average of Oakland residents per square mile. As you might expect, there are a lot of apartments in this neighborhood but although many are of the boxy, 1970’s variety, there are also an equal number that predate WWII and provide fair examples of what the neighborhoods in Oakland looked like in the first half of the 20th Century. There are also some cozy California bungalows tucked away on some of the leafy, sloping streets including some unusual ones along a gorgeous little section of School right around St. Jarlath’s Catholic church. Almost all the bungalows along this stretch have newer Mission Revival style facades with beautifully maintained lawns and attractive tree growth (often those squat decorative palm trees that are often used in So Cal). It’s hard to believe actually, that the average household income in this neighborhood is in the low 40K and that it only rises into the middle class range around St. Jarlath’s. A similar looking neighborhood in Glendale is home to those with salaries in the six digits. (Perhaps the drag of the nearby Fruitvale District is too much for this neighborhood.)

One of the more unusual structures in the neighborhood is this two story building on the corner of School and Champion. It features a castle-like tower topped with crenellated turrets—so, if you happen to need to fight off orcs or Huns, you know where to take your crossbow.

As you might expect given the neighborhood’s name, there are, in fact, schools in this neighborhood—Fruitvale Elementary and St. Jarlath’s School. Although the school is well-liked by the local community, Fruitvale Elementary receives below average marks when it comes to objective scores like standardized tests. Of course, the task for Fruitvale’s teachers is a difficult one with students from such varied backgrounds. St. Jarlath’s is, obviously, a Catholic school associated with St. Jarlath’s church. The school has received some mixed reviews. Its small class sizes and smaller campus however give it some natural advances. Here’s a piece of neighborhood trivia by the way. The baseball field at Fruitvale is named after Curt Flood, the famous Cardinal baseball player who grew up in Oakland.

There are also some businesses along Fruivale Ave, such as the perfectly named The Love Stop Flower Shop. Most of the other businesses, however, are of a very pedestrian nature—like gas stations and hair salons.

The neighborhood would have a lot more to offer if it were not for dangers in the surrounding area. Just in School itself, 4 murders occurred between 2007 and 2009. Given its tiny population of just a few thousand, this is not something to overlook. If you also take into account the dozen or so murders in the surrounding neighborhoods you can see why rents remain low and even the more attractive portions of this neighborhood cannot lure more affluent residents.
Pros
  • Attractive Architecture
  • Leafy Streets
  • Affordable Homes
Cons
  • Bad Schools
  • Crime
  • Older Apartment Problems
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 4/5
Mar 02, 2011

"A Tour of California Residential Architecture "

This thin slip of a neighborhood stretches along Fruitvale Avenue from Foothill to the MacArthur Freeway. The neighborhood is also distinctive because its northern border is largely demarcated by a row of trees over Sausal Creek.

Down by Foothill, the neighborhood is a densely packed and a bit rundown looking. There are a mix of boxy apartments, an equally boxy looking residential high rise, and a number of older Victorians. Much of this section of the neighborhood dates from the pre-WWII period and it definitely shows on the wear and tear of the buildings here.

Along the brief stretch of Foothill that is contained within the neighborhood there is a taqueria and a nail salon. This section of Foothill has a sort of Southwest feel to it here—more as if you were in New Mexico than in Oakland.

As one starts moving up into the hills and towards the reservoir and freeway, the homes start to become progressively more well-kept. First, the apartment buildings quickly give way to Victorians. In addition, the Victorians a few blocks up from Foothill are much better kept than those just off of it. These are not cutting edge modern structures, but simply well-maintained homes kept that way by the diligence of caring tenants.

Near 27th Street, the Victorians give way—for the most part—to Ranch homes and Prairie homes—with even an occasional Mission Revival or even a Cape Cod with its distinctive gambrel roof. These are not the larger Ranch homes but squatter 1950’s style Ranch homes with their limited plot size.

At the corner of 27th and Fruitvale, there are a number of stores, including a coin laundry, a Asian food place (I think it’s a Thai place if I remember correctly), a barbecue appliance store and an actual barbecue. If this were not considered the Fruitvale district, this would probably be a more popular spot for people to grab a bite.

As one moves even farther, the Ranch homes give way to cozy California Bungalows in various styles. The streets here get fairly leafy and are reminiscent of the popular residential areas in north Berkeley. Very quaint.

The bungalows are followed by a wave of Prairie Homes. All very well kept.

And just before the freeway there are a gorgeous few blocks with very nice—though small—homes with Mission Revival style facades (some even having the rounded, tower like feature that works so well with this look) lines the horseshoe shaped streets.

Rents climb accordingly as you go farther up and up the hill, but, again, because this is an undesirable area of the Fruitvale District, rents remain affordable throughout—rarely climbing above $1,000.

This is also as diverse a neighborhood as you will find anywhere, being home to equal numbers of Whites, African Americans, Asians and Hispanics—a real tapestry of American life.
Pros
  • Variety of Homes
  • Diversity
  • Affordible Rents
Cons
  • A Bit of Crime
  • A Bit Rundown Near Foothill
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 4/5
Feb 25, 2011

"A Peaceful Island in a Stormy Gang Area"

This is often considered two separate neighborhoods, Meadow Brook and Reservoir Hills. Reservoir Hills, as the name indicates, is the hilly area on the eastern side of the neighborhood, while the pleasant sounding Meadow Brook is on the western side.

Whenever you are near the Fruitvale area of Oakland, crime is a concern. Generally speaking however, this area is slightly safer than the area right around Fruitvale. There is about one murder per year in the Meadow Brook section of the neighborhood. With a population of 6,000 plus in the neighborhood, this is a relatively safe area as compared with neighboring Oak Wood, for example, where you get one murder per 2,000 residents roughly. That said, crime is still a concern in the area because of the nearby gang violence that is a daily (and especially nightly) fact of life in this area.

If you can get beyond that, what you find in Reservoir Hills is yet another bungalow city, where virtually every home is in that squat, protective style. Most of the residents in Reservoir Hills are still in the working class range, but you can tell by how well kept the front yards are that the inhabitants are hardworking and fundamentally decent. There is little ostentatious in the neighborhood, but the slopes provide both a cooling breeze from the bay and somewhat of a view.

Another sign of the quality of this neighborhood is the neighborhood school, Manzanita Seed School. Manzanita Seed is a dual immersion program where students are taught in both English and Spanish. Though the school does not rank fantastically on tests (the Great Schools website gives it a 7 out of 10),but it is light years ahead of many of the schools in the surrounding areas that have virtually fallen off the map in terms of student achievement scores. In addition, Manzanita offers free after school art programs taught by professional artists and musicians.

As you move farther down the hill into Meadow Brook, you still get many of the same kinds of homes as you do in Reservoir Hills—you still get a lot of California bungalows and even a few squat Mission style bungalows. Now, however, the well-kept lawns tend to be marred by one or two front yards where the gardens have been allowed to become overgrown or where the grass has died from poor maintenance. This is not a sharp drop off, but it is enough so that you start to notice a bit of a decline. In fact, in spots you find empty lots where grass have overgrown everything except what used to be the front steps to a home that no longer exists or old Victorians whose windows have been boarded up.

Most of the businesses that occupy this neighborhood are along Foothill Blvd., on the western border of the neighborhood. There you will find a coin operated car wash, a market and a grilled taco restaurant. There are not the kind of businesses or restaurants that will bring people into the area from the outside, but there are convenient offerings for those that live in the area.

There is also a couple of churches in the northwestern corner of the neighborhood—First Spanish Baptist and Twenty Third Street Church. Also in the neighborhood is Victory Baptist Church, so you will definitely not be limited in the type of Baptist institution you would like to attend.

Overall, Reservoir Hills and to a lesser extent Meadow Brook, are some of the better spots to live if you must live in this area.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Good School
  • Quiet and Relatively Safe
Cons
  • Still Somewhat Dangerous
  • Old House Problems
  • No Good Shopping
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Feb 25, 2011

"Community Service and Gang Problems"

Many community service and social action groups make their homes in this tiny Oakland neighborhood. For example, a squat, dingy building on the corner of Miller and 15th Houses the Volunteers of America, a nationwide volunteer service that is over a century old. VOA helps with everyone from the aging and homeless community to parolees looking to find employment and re-enter a legit life. (The building is also across from a beautiful example of the Mission Style in homes—a structure that has an adobe tower with attractive tiled roof—very cool!)

Just a few blocks away, Youth Employment Partnership is an organization that seeks to help 15-24 year olds gain work experience and improve grades by helping them find service sector jobs. The organization helps to pay for training and provides support for students to stay in school or complete their GED.

There is also a shelter and housing agency for battered women—the 26th Avenue Housing Association and a couple of other community development offices.

The neighborhood is also home to a pair of churches as well: a Seventh Day Adventist church, the Oakland Spanish SDA Church; and, the New Covenant Church. The New Covenant Church has a pre-school attached—“Little Sprouts Pre-School.” (There is another child care center just around the corner, Centro Infantil.)

When it comes to actually living in the neighborhood, residents have many of the same choices as those in the surrounding neighborhoods—pre-World War II bungalows and some fairly boxy looking apartment buildings.

In terms of food and entertainment, there really isn’t much to speak of, beyond some fast food places at the edges of the neighborhood.

Crime is, of course, a worry here as in the surrounding neighborhoods. Between 2007 and 2009 there were 5 murders in this neighborhood. Given that the population of the neighborhood is only 4500 that means you have roughly a 1 in 2,250 chance of being killed here on any given year—though the reality is that this level of intense violence is mostly limited to the young who look as if they are in gangs—most of the victims being in their teens and early 20s. (A generally sad situation that gives you some sense of why the many community organizations are needed here.)
Pros
  • Lot of Community Service Programs
  • Affordable Housing
  • Access to Transportation
Cons
  • Crime
  • Gang Violence
  • Run-Down Neighborhood
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 25, 2011

"A Bit Gentrified"

Much of this “L” shaped neighborhood is made up of worn out industrial buildings. In some spots however one sees the trademark gentrified apartment buildings that have become an Oakland staple. The three story pastel facades of these structures are their dead give away. In many cases the complexes also try to give residents a feeling of safety by having parking courtyards and two story high gates at the entrance.

Mostly, however, the residential area is made up of pre-WWII bungalows in various states of repair and those boxy 1970’s style apartment buildings. Occasionally you come across empty lots sprinkled throughout the neighborhood. Many of the lawns are unkept and poorly watered—adding to a general feeling of shabbiness in the neighborhood.

Many businesses call this neighborhood home—from Acme Fire Extinguishers to the Native American Health Center.

If you are an architecture buff and like to visit old houses, you will also find the Cohen Bray House in this neighborhood. Built in the 1870’s it is one of the older buildings still around in Oakland.

The local elementary school in the area, International Community School, is fairly mediocre when it comes to test scores, but given the even lower scores of the surrounding schools, this is probably one of the better school in the area to enroll students. There is also an Oakland Charter school and Hawthorne Middle School at the southern end of the neighborhood—both of which leave a lot to be desired.

Food options here are far from remarkable—mostly it is just fast food like El Pollo Loco and MacDonalds. The best places to eat are probably the taquerias that bring a touch of authenticity to the area. Much of the neighborhood’s establishments announce themselves in Spanish, the dominant language of the area. So, you get places with names like Supermercado Mi Pueblo and Hornitos Café.

As throughout this area surrounding the Fruitvale BART, crime is the problem keeps me from recommending it to anyone.
Pros
  • Some Good Housing
  • Got Public Transporation
  • Affordable Living
Cons
  • Crime
  • Worn-Out Look
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 24, 2011

"Luckys and a Boston Market"

Like many neighborhoods in this area, much of North Kennedy Tract is filled with really old, worn-out looking homes. Older model cars with missing panels and bald tires are the staple of this neighborhood that hugs the western shoulder of the Union Pacific railroad. Many of lots in the neighborhood have been altogether abandoned.

On the southern end (and somewhat at the northern tip) of the neighborhood, however, businesses have moved in as part of the attempt to revitalize Oakland. There are now an Office Depot, a Boston Market, and a Lucky Supermarket—a definite improvement in a section of Oakland where sources for fresh produce are few and far between. In part, this is an attempt to piggyback on the nearby Fruitvale Village outdoor shopping area that people hope will help revitalize what might otherwise become a blighted area.

Unfortunately, the neighborhood is plagued by many of the problems of Oakland. The schools are a bit overwhelmed and underfunded and have difficulty dealing with a population of second language speakers.

Overall, this is not really an attractive neighborhood for most.
Pros
  • The Supermarket
  • Nice Southern Area
  • Near the BART
Cons
  • Crime
  • Dirty
  • Worn Out
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 24, 2011

"A Bit Industrial But Good For Bachelors Maybe"

Except from some very rundown looking houses in the small residential section, South Kennedy Tract is a basically an industrial area that straddles that small waterway that separates Oakland from Alameda.

In the northern end of this neighborhood, Union Point Park by the docks is an okay spot—pretty and quiet. Unfortunately, it is a bit on the desolate side and can be a little bit scary for that reason. There is not much there other than the docked sail boats and a statue of a Native American woman mounted in the middle of the a teardrop shaped cement area. Mostly it is just an empty green space—windy because of the bay.

There are a few dive bars and some businesses up on the northern end as well. The night spots tend to stay a bit and then go out of business. The exception to this being Nikko’s Café, a 24hour “family restaurant” right by the 29th street bridge that picks up a lot of late night traffic that opts for it in the wee hours instead of Denny’s. It is definitely a mainstay—its hard to screw up breakfast food, even if it is being eaten at 3am.

There are also some nice condos hidden away by the waterside of this neighborhood. This might be a good spot for bachelors, or guys who are really into sailing—but is not well-situated for family living.
Pros
  • Some Nice Waterside Condos
  • Close to Sailing
  • Some Businesses Here
Cons
  • Run Down on Southern End
  • Crime
  • Dirty in Spots
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 24, 2011

"Feels Like Texas"

The Rancho San Antonio neighborhood is working class neighborhood deep in Oakland. It is densely populated and filed with pre-WWII homes largely made of wood. They neighborhood has a rather squalid run-down look to it. In many parts of this area, you don’t quite feel as if you are north of the border—the buildings have the feeling of certain southwestern cities. In fact, you might say that this neighborhood feels more like San Antonio, Texas at times than it does San Antonio, Oakland. Along International Blvd., the major artery on the western end of the neighborhood, the squat one-story furniture stores and abandoned looking buildings are in the Mission style. You also get some wooden Victorian type buildings with an extra story added on, but if it were not for the fog and green hills in the background, you might think you are in another region of the US.

San Antonio Park is big and had tennis courts but the few times I’ve driven by it I’ve not seen anyone using it. Garfield Elementary is on the southern end of the neighborhood. The school is well liked by the community and boasts teachers who truly care about the students. Poor funding and second language problems however do not reflect this hard work in the schools test scores—where it ranks far below average.

To the western end of the neighborhood there are also a fair number of churches which are fairly well attended.

Unfortunately there is no getting around this being about as dangerous as it gets in terms of Oakland neighborhoods with the crime rate permanently fixed at about three times the national average. It is simply not a safe neighborhood.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
  • Little Traffic
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • Run-Down Looking
  • Seedy
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 3/5
Feb 16, 2011

"A Dilapadated Neighborhood"

This is another one of those Oakland residential areas that could easily be used to film a movie set in the 1950’s since many of the streets in this neighborhood don’t have any fixed structure from after 1960 on them. Though most of the structures in the area are the typical California bungalows, there are also a fair number of 1950’s style Ranch Homes and also a pretty good number of 1960’s style shoe box shaped apartment complexes.

The whole neighborhood, unfortunately has a run down, worn out look to it which is reflected in the peeling paint jobs and generally dilapidated feel of the area. Lawns are overgrown, lots look unkept, homes which have been there ages feel in some cases plopped down and out of place. There are even some homes that have clearly been abandoned—often wooden shells left to rot on dirt lots.

Put simply, this is not really the sort of place most people want to live.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
  • Unusual Old Homes
  • Quiet
Cons
  • Crime
  • Unkept Homes and Yards
  • Dirty
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 16, 2011

"No Tuxedos Here"

This is a diverse, densely packed neighborhood boasting a somewhat better selection of homes than many of the other nearby Oakland neighborhoods. The demographics of the area are fairly mixed with a fairly even mix of whites, African Americans and Asians. Despite the fact that the neighborhood is only about one fifth of mile in size, it has nearly 4,000 occupants, making it a fairly densely packed area—as evidenced by the fair number of apartment buildings you come across in this neighborhood.

The buildings in the area, however, are not quite as old as in other Oakland neighborhoods, on average. Sure, it has its shares of pre-War bungalows, but it also has a good share of smallish Ranch style homes in areas, and even a fair number of post 1970 constructions—many of them the boxy apartment buildings that have become so unpleasantly associated with the 70’s. For all we know some may still have the original shag carpet.

The area is definitely leafy and hilly in a way that could be pleasant.

Like most of Oakland, however, the crime rate here is three times higher than the national average, so this is not the safest of neighborhoods. However, given that there is not much nightlife here, there are fewer occasions on which to be victimized. That said, it is always a good idea to stay alert when you are out and not do anything that may put you in a vulnerable position for being robbed or assaulted.

You do see people walking the streets during the day, mostly in small groups or with intimidating looking dogs like Rottweilers or pitbulls. The cars in the area are mostly older models and almost invariably have discolorations on them indicating crashes—I am not completely sure why. Rents here are cheap, so the area may be attractive for students or nurses in the nearby hospital. Crime however will put a damper on any great influx of new blood.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Diverse
Cons
  • Crime
  • Ugly Cars
  • Crowded
Recommended for
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 4/5
Feb 16, 2011

"Forgettable Except for the Hospital"

Stretching out just to the west of 580, the Lynn/Highland park neighborhood is most famous for being home to Highland Hospital, which is at its eastern edge. Highland Park Hospital is not only the leading trauma center in Alameda County, it is also an excellent teaching hospital.

The neighborhood surrounding the hospital is a largely working class neighborhood with lots of California bungalows and a few other structures. The neighborhood is on a slight incline, though not quite enough to offer much of a view.

There are some businesses here like a taquarria and a handful of auto repair places, but they are largely forgettable.

This, like many Oakland neighborhoods, is a relatively dangerous neighborhood, with a crime rate that is three times higher than the national average.
Pros
  • Quiet
  • Inexpensive
  • Good Hospital
Cons
  • Crime
  • Pretty Forgettable
  • Old House Problems
Recommended for
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 4/5
Feb 16, 2011

"Beautiful View Sans View"

Balla Vista is a tiny working class residential neighborhood surrounding Bella Vista Park. It has a bit of a secluded feel, as if you are farther away from the action than you actually are. Though the neighborhood is below average in terms of income, the residents shell out a slightly higher amount of rent than you might expect so that they can live in this slightly nicer neighborhood.

I don’t mean to give the wrong impression. This isn’t like a neighborhood in Piedmont. The buildings here are old and look old, though relatively well-kept. They are almost invariably Craftsman style bungalows of the kind that are extremely common in this area and up into Berkeley. So, you get the two storied shingled variety next to the more straightforward stucco looking variety. You do still get the traditional aspects of the Craftsman bungalow, recessed entrances with walk-up steps, exposed supports and a heavy looking roof.

There are also lots of older looking—largely three story—buildings.

One thing that I didn’t really see in Bella Vista, is a beautiful view of much of anything. There may be some from the back porches of some of the residents—but none seems evident from street level.

Bella Vista Elementary School and Bella Vista Park mark the center of this tiny neighborhood. The elementary school is not too bad, making it an okay neighborhood for working class families. The park is attached to the school and, like much of everything else you will find in this neighborhood, is not much to write home about.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Quiet
  • Okay Elementary School
Cons
  • Old
  • Some Crime
  • No View
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 15, 2011

"Cheap Way to Live by Lake Merritt"

Ivy Hill is in many ways a microcosm of Oakland in general. It is an amazingly diverse place with fairly even numbers of whites, African Americans, and Asians, and a fairly representative sampling of Latinos. This is, like most of Oakland, a working class neighborhood with the median household income coming in under $50K. The neighborhood is filled with old homes and buildings—more than half of the structures here date from before the Eisenhower administration.

The most attractive part of the neighborhood is up by Park Boulevard. There where you actually get some of the hill, you also get some attractive, leafy steps that rise up in between the old pre-World War II homes and apartments. It is actually quite conducive to walking during the day and in the mornings during good weather it is not unusual to see locals taking in the air. The neighborhood is not quite safe enough to do this after nightfall, however (in fact, even in the day it is a good idea to stay alert).

Parkway Blvd. is also fairly close to the Lake Merritt (so close you can walk) so living here by it is just like living by Lake Merritt but with a hundred or two knocked off the rent. The homes throughout most of the neighborhood are nice enough in themselves. They are mostly those heavy looking Craftsman type bungalows, so you get that overwhelming feeling of shelter when you are in one. Though they are “cozy,” a real-estate euphemism for “small.” Many of the apartments are also those three story Victorian type deals typical of the North Beach area of SF. You don’t quite get the views that you get in North Beach, but you do get a pretty good gander at the Oakland skyline from some points so maybe that is a bit of a consolation.

There’s a pretty typical dive bar in this neighborhood as well, Parkway Lounge. It features live music every so often and the typical grungy feel of a dive bar—though this is mostly a residential neighborhood. The Parkway is right next to a really good little, old style movie theater that plays foreign and art films—well worth the trip for the two in combination. The Rooz Café is also down the street—it’s a restaurant of some kind, but I’ve never been there so I couldn’t tell you much about it.

In the proverbial nutshell, I would say that this is a great, little known neighborhood within walking distance of Lake Merritt but affordable. A steal for those who love this part of Oakland.
Pros
  • Close to Lake Merritt
  • Affordable Rents
  • Some Pleasant Spots
Cons
  • Crime
  • Old Building Problems
  • Dense
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 14, 2011

"A Run Down Looking Neighborhood"

No, its not named after the president, but after one of the founders of the area (technically after one of the girl friends of one of the founders. This is a working class neighborhood with very old homes, half of which were built before 1950. Most of the nicer homes in the neighborhood are on the northern end near the Lake. There you will find some well kept Craftsman bungalows, with perfectly trimmed lawns and shady terraces.

Most of the 10K people who live in this neighborhood, however, live in densely packed apartment buildings. This neighborhood actually has 2.5 times more people per square mile than other parts of Oakland. This is basically an urban residential area. There are at least two different churches in the neighborhood, Korean United Methodist, and St. James.

Overall, however this neighborhood is kind of run down and a bit dangerous. Despite its proximity to Merritt Lake, I can’t really recommend it.
Pros
  • Low Rents
  • Some Nice Homes
  • Little Traffic
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • No Restuarants
  • Ugly Looking in Spots
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 14, 2011

"Great Cheap Pho!"

I don’t make into East Peralta much. However, when I do go, I usually try to check out one of the local Asian food places. Thanh Ky is great if you are in the mood for really good cheap noodles. There are also at least a half dozen Pho places in this neighborhood, most of them pretty good and all of them cheap. Of course, they all look more than a little sketchy so I would stick to the ones with parking lots like Pho Oakland. There is graffiti everywhere but Vietnamese people actually eat here, so you are guaranteed something close to authentic food. Go in the middle of the day though, this is not the kind of place you want to be wandering around in at nighttime.

Other than this, there are a lot of rundown looking car repair places and electricians—that kind of grungy industrial feel.

This is a working class to poor neighborhood, with really old, dingy looking buildings, older Victorians, and a fair number of what look to be abandoned lots with dust covered trucks, sand heaps and the general detritus of industry.

Over all, this might be a good place to snap up a bite to eat, but I wouldn’t hang idly around this area—especially in the later hours of the day.
Pros
  • The Pho
  • Cheap Rents
Cons
  • Crime
  • Poor Schools
  • Rundown Look
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Feb 14, 2011

"A Great Little Marina"

This section of Peralta straddles a stretch of 880 where commuters are flanked by the narrows of a waterway on the western end, while on the eastern end you have a series of north-south railroad tracks. All along the water there are marinas where boats float at port, their masts waving in the wind and tide.

The area along the water mainly caters to yachters and those associated with the Marina. There are, for example, a couple of pretty good places to go for food and drinks. Quinn’s Lighthouse is perhaps the best known of these. Right by the marina, Quinn’s is housed in a building attached to a small lighthouse (it actually looks more like an air traffic control tower at an airport. Quinn’s has a good selection of seafood and an even better list of lagers and wines. Another fun spot is the winery, Irish Monkey, on the eastern end of the neighborhood. Very good wines and a good spot for tastings.

You will also find the kinds of places you would expect in such an area, like the two hotels, Motel 6 and Executive Inn Suites, and the shops Outdoor Pro Shop and Enterprise Rent-a-Car.

There are two schools in this southern part of the neighborhood: Beacon Day School and Aspire Public School. Beacon Day is a private school teaching students from K to 8th. It is not a religious school and has a focus on arts as a way of teaching what they call “the whole student.” A very good, well regarded private school that tries create a diverse environment for its classrooms. The headquarters of Aspire Public Schools (a company that runs several Charter schools in the East Bay) is also here.

Also from the freeway is a great red brick building that used to house a bakery. Back when I was in college and my brother lived down in Fremont, I used to drive down and every time I would hit this point the car would be flooded by the most wonderful smell of baking bread. It was delightful, but it seems the bakery is long gone now, except that when I drive by the building the memory of the warm, doughy smell fills me again with a powerful nostalgia.
Pros
  • Marina
  • Quinn's
  • The Stores
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Ugly Freeway
  • Not Much of Nightspot
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Beach Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 5/5
Feb 11, 2011

"A Great School for a Second Shot"

This is where Laney College is located. Laney is one of the community colleges in the Peralta College District which serves the Oakland/Berkeley area. The two main colleges in the Peralta District are Laney and Merritt which is up in the Oakland Hills. The colleges are meant to help educate the populace in the area. You gets a variety of students at Laney, from the kids that are just hanging around after high school because they don’t know what else to do, to working adults looking to improve their careers. The campus has a nice clean look to it, a pleasant oasis from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding city.

Community colleges like Laney often get a bad rap because they accept any one who has a pulse, but I personally think such places are part of what make this country great. Unlike other countries where everything is based on an exam at the end of high school that determines your future, this country believes that you can always turn things around and continue to better yourself. Although I didn’t go to Laney, I did go to a community college that gave me the time and space to help turn me around. Given the poverty of much of the surrounding community, I think that Laney is the sort of place that helps to change lives in a way that few other places do.
Pros
  • Good Classes
  • Low Pressure Environment
  • Good Teachers
Cons
  • Poor Class Selection
  • Scary at Night
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 1/5
Feb 11, 2011

"How Could This Neighborhood Be by the Lake?"

Merritt is a small neighborhood to the south of the lake that bears its name. It is a poor neighborhood and one of the rare flat areas of East Bay. The neighborhood is densely packed, with lots of pre-1950 buildings and newer public housing units whose cookie cutter look give them away.

There is a bit of spillover in terms of Chinese restaurants (Chinatown is nearby) but these are rather run down looking restaurants. Strangely things don’t even improve near the lake, even though you would think that the lake side real estate would make things more attractive for developers.

There are some nice touches here and there. Like the Lakeside Baptist Church that uses a modernized version of Mission architecture.

The local high school is Dewey, one of the truly bad public high schools in Oakland. This is definitely not where you want to send your kids if you have any say in the matter.

Overall this is a pretty bad neighborhood despite its location by the lake.
Pros
  • Inexpensive Housing
  • Close to the Lake
  • Good Transportation
Cons
  • Ugly Buildings
  • Terrible School
  • Dangerous
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 1/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 1/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 11, 2011

"Doesn't Compare to SF's Chinatown"

I don’t know much about living in Chinatown, except that it is fairly packed and that rents are relatively low.

Like that other Chinatown across the Bay, this Chinatown has a number of excellent restaurants that bring people in to enjoy the neighborhood. There are, of course, a number of great Dim Sum places in Chinatown. Some of my favorites include Legendary Palace, Gourmet Delight (for seafood) and King of the King. But Chinatown also offers some cuisine from China’s culinary neighbors—such as the Vietnamese joint called Vien Houng. These are all good places to go, and because of its proximity to Downtown there is a daily lunch hour that floods Chinatown with hungry business people with only an hour to get what they need and head back, so expect a hectic weekday lunch crowd if that is when you happen to be there.

Unfortunately the streets here are nowhere near as walkable as those of SF’s Chinatown, with wide lanes and bumper to bumper traffic producing noise and a generally unpleasant feeling. Inside the restaurants, it is nice enough, though nowhere near as pleasant as across the bay.

I can’t really imagine living in the warrens that make up the housing above the storefronts either—they have that dingy look of low cost city dwellings that is neither quaint nor ruggedly cool.

Overall, I see this as a good place for lunch, if you like Chinese food, but not really a place most us would want to live.
Pros
  • Good Restuarants
  • Good Transportation
  • Good Location
Cons
  • Crowded
  • Noisy
  • Traffic
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Feb 11, 2011

"Lakeside Apartments"

Adam’s Point is a densely packed lower middle class neighborhood on the northeast side of Lake Merritt. It stretches up from the lake into the hills at one of the prettiest spots along the lake, just Lakeshore Blvd. This is at the spot that is right by the Lakeside Park.

Adam’s point has a lot of apartments. It is, in fact, four times more packed than your average Oakland neighborhood because of the high density of apartments, and the residential high rises near the lake.

This neighborhood, like much of Oakland, has also undergone gentrification, as is evidenced by businesses like Gold’s Gym and Whole Foods. Overall, however, the neighborhood has kept its diversity, being fairly evenly divided in terms of numbers of African Americans, Asians, Latino’s and Whites. In fact, this is one of the main selling points of the neighborhood.

A number of good restaurants take advantage of the lake side location and make their homes here on Grand Avenue. Here are some of my favorites. ZZA’s Tratoria is a smallish Italian place that features what they call “home-made” Italian food and a fine wine bar. They also cater events, so keep them in mind next time you have an event. If you crave something a little bit more off the beaten track, you might try Enssaro Ethiopian. And if you would prefer a Mediterranean buffet, Bacchesso might be the place to try. There are also restaurants like Milano Spretto, Coach Sushi, and Ahn’s Burgers.

If you are okay with living in an apartment in a very crowded area, this is actually a pretty cool place to live. You can jog at the lake in the morning, be anywhere in the East Bay or the city in less than an hour via public transportation, and be within walking distance of a number of nightspots. Perfect for twenty somethings just out of college.
Pros
  • The Lake
  • Affordable Apartments
  • Diverse Community
Cons
  • Over-Crowded
  • Ugly Apartments
  • Noisy
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 11, 2011

"Nice Lake Adjacent Neighbhorhood"

Cleveland Heights is a middle-class residential neighborhood to the southeast of Lake Merritt. Like most of Oakland, it is filled with older homes, more than half of which were built before 1950. Because this neighborhood is just off the shores of Lake Merritt, however, the homes here are nicer than your average lot of homes. Their balconied fronts stare out over the waters of the lake. Cleveland Heights is also typical of Oakland and the Bay Area in that it is not a flat neighborhood, but climbs up a steady slope of hills, with the homes stacked along the terraced hillside. Quaint, cement stairwells line the hillside forming walkways between the homes.

In some of the upper reaches of this hillside neighborhood, these old manor like homes in styles as varied as Tudors and Spanish Revivals, are reminiscent of nearby Piedmont and belie the fact that this is largely a middle class neighborhood. Even the smaller Craftsman style bungalows—a common site through much of Oakland—are nicely maintained with well-cared for lawns and short driveways (with often just the cement for the tires).

You can’t beat the location of this neighborhood in terms of being close to the entertainments of the East Bay but just removed enough so that you can retreat to a bit of peace and quiet. However, it is not necessarily as far away as you might like if you are trying to raise a family. Cleveland Heights is still close enough to the crime and gang problems of Oakland overall, making it less than an ideal place for raising a family. In addition, Oakland High School at the eastern border of the neighborhood gets mediocre at best ratings from local parents and independent sources.

So although I might recommend this place if you are single and looking for a place that is centrally located, I cannot see it as a great place for raising a family long term.
Pros
  • Near Lake Merritt
  • Nice Older Homes
  • Close to Everything
Cons
  • Old Home Problems
  • Poor Local Schools
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Retirees
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 11, 2011

"More Than Just the Squares in Jack London"

When talking about this area of Oakland, you must begin, of course, by mentioning Jack London Square, Oakland’s number one tourist attraction. I should begin by saying that I have always found Jack London Square to be more than a little bit over-rated—kind of a B grade Fisherman’s Wharf. The restaurants (notably Scott’s Seafood) there and the Barnes and Noble are okay, but I’ve never found them to be worth all the hub-bub. In fact, if all there was to this area was the waterfront Square, I doubt anyone from other areas of Oakland would spend too much time here.

It is actually the area slightly inland that makes this area really attractive.

There are, first of all, a number of different fish markets and produce centers here. When I used to work in the area I would sometimes come here early, when the area fills with wafting fishy smells, schools and schools of fishy smells. This is where Oakland restaurants come to get their fresh produce for their healthy menus. You can really hear the sounds of bustling city here, from the traffic on the freeway, to the fairly regular rumblings of the freight trains rumbling in to deliver exports and rumbling out to distribute imports. (Jack London Square also sits across from the Amtrak station where you can travel all the way to the East Coast should you desire to get out of town and a great way to commute to Sac as I used to do.)

This waterfront neighborhood, just across the isthmus from Alameda (this is the spots where the Webster and Harrison Street tubes are located), is also home to one of Oakland’s most renowned live jazz venues, Yoshi’s. It not only has great headlining jazz and blues groups, but it also has great sushi; now, that is what I call a great date spot.

If you love a good saloon style dive bar, you could do worse than Heinhold’s First and Last Chance Saloon, a place designed to make you feel as if you jumped back 150 years to when Oakland was just a little western backwater—or at least you would be transported there if weren’t for the fact that Heinhold’s sits under the shadow of the freeway and one of Oakland’s Downtown skyscrapers on one side and the towering harbor cranes on the other. Other similar local establishments include Beer Revolution, Warehouse, and Merchant’s Saloon, both worth a stop if you are bar hopping with a drinking buddy. Encuentra, a vegetarian winebar, is especially worth mention.

There are also great eateries here, as you would expect given its convenient location. Notable are Kincaids and Miss Pearl’s (a barbecue place).

In other words, this is a great place to come for movies, comedy clubs, bars and restaurants, even if you will have to brave the flocks of tourists.
Pros
  • Great Restaurants
  • Great Entertainment
  • Great Transportation
Cons
  • Crime
  • Too Touristy
  • Traffic and Parking
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 1/5
Feb 11, 2011

"Old City New Again"

This is one of those places in Oakland where the statistics for median household incomes and rental costs from just a few years ago seem not reflect the realities on the ground. For example, the median household income for residents of Old City is listed as around $20K. This would seem to indicate a very poor neighborhood with old buildings and high unemployment. Most of these statistics however are culled from the 2000 census. A simple drive through the streets here, however, reveals a very different kind of a neighborhood. Newer apartments, clean streets, quaint lampposts give one the feel of neighborhood undergoing revitalization. In short, much of this area has been gentrified.

Of course, old problems persist in Old City. Crime rates are high—especially property crime, but that is only to be expected in a part of the city where the economic disparity is so stark. During the day, one feels relatively safe here. The architecture of these newer buildings tells a different story, giving you a sense of the fortress mentality of these new Yuppie keeps. Windows are kept off the ground levels, front doors offer clear lines of sight on approach, and the doors themselves have an extra fortified look to them.

That said, the attractions for the young and well off are obvious as well. The mix of these newer earth toned structures with the pre-World War II brick warrens makes for a compelling eclectic street scene. With a BART station within the neighborhood, the nearby ferry, buses and pay parking, there is certainly no lack of choice when it comes to public transportation.

If that weren’t enough, the neighborhood itself is packed with restaurants and nightspots serving the theater crowd of the adjacent downtown as well as the tourists spilling off of nearby Jack London Square. Notable establishments include the pubs The Trappist (a Belgian Brewery), and Pacific Coast Brewery, one of several local artisan hops joints. Restaurants also offer a wide variety of choices, with Mexican at Tamarindo Antajera, Cambodian at Battambang, and fresh food at the Farmers’ Market Bistro. For dancing there is the AIR Lounge and the several clubs just over the border in Downtown.

In other words, they might as well change the name of this neighborhood to Young and Hip City—times have changed for this pocket of Oakland.
Pros
  • quiant newer buildings
  • great nightlife
  • great public transportation
Cons
  • crime
  • touristy
  • noisy
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 04, 2011

"The Watery Heart of Oakland"

Definitely the heart of Oakland, this beautiful water spot really transports city dwellers. This is the place where the joggers come in mornings, where lunch daters go to for romantic walks, and where families take their kids on the weekends. In fact, the “lake” is actually a lagoon created by tides.

Children’s Fairyland on the eastern shore of the lake holds the claim to fame of being the very first theme park that was intending for young children and their families. In fact, it is widely believed that the idea for Disneyland came to old Uncle Walt when he took a little visit to Lake Merritt way back in 1950. You can certainly see the similarities in the way that Children’s Fairyland uses the characters from children’s tale in its design—though Walt would take this much further than Fairyland does.

A great place to go for a date on the lake is the Lake Seafood Chalet right on the western shore of the lake, right next to one of the oldest structures in this area of Oakland, the Camron-Stanford house. The chalet is really a big restaurant with good (not great) food and really nice views. At night, you get lots of twinkling lights reflected in the lake surface. It is also most popular at happy hour.

Next door is a historical spot that gives you a sense what Oakland was like 150 years ago. The Camron-Stanford is a large Victorian that was once the residence of at least one mayor. A nice spot for a visit, but definitely not a destination in itself.

If you really want to feel like you have stepped back in time however, you might want to give the Terrace Room at the Lake Merritt Hotel a try. This chic hotel restaurant is decorated like something out of a 1930’s Dashiell Hammett novel, with big gazebo like windows looking out onto a lake in large white table cloth and hardwood floor kind of room. Just beautiful really. A great place to celebrate an anniversary, for example.

Put simply, this is a great place to unwind on the weekends regardless of who you are or what your situation is.
Pros
  • Beautiful and Scenic
  • Great Restaurants
  • Great Jogging/Walkinsg Spot
Cons
  • A Bit of Crime
  • Hard Parking
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 04, 2011

"Where the Spice Monkey's Go for Drinks and Dancing"

So let’s just cut to the chase. Here are the top 5 places to go for drinks/food/dancing in Downtown Oakland:

5. There is a good selection of international food. One of my personal favorites is Vos Vietnamese Restaurant. It has a wonderful décor with a long bar and both seating at intimate tables (perfect for dates) and balcony seating perched above. They also have live piano, though I have never been there when it is in use.

4. Rio California, a great Brazilian food place. Just across the street from Preservation Park in a converted Victorian, the warm interior is perfect for lunch when it gets a pretty good crowd from the local businesses

3. Club 21, a gay dance club that caters to Latinos. If you are straight, you might prefer Penelope’s a pretty good bar—almost with a dive feel to it—except for the rule that says that you can’t be a dive bar and serve mimosas.

2. The Layover is a very swanky, chabby chic type of a joint, with at touch of Turkish coffee house thrown in for good measure. It is really a lounge where you can get great mixed drinks and mingle till you tingle—whatever that means. Enjoy.

1. A place that knows how to make comfort food classy and healthy is Spice Monkey. It also has a very cool décor with high front windows and a tile staircase that really gives you a Mediterranean feel.
Pros
  • Great Nightlife
  • Good Business Community
  • Great Public Transportation
Cons
  • Crime
  • Overly Urban
  • Not a Good Family Spot
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Feb 04, 2011

"Mua! Mua! Mua!"

Barely anyone lives in this neighborhood. (Only about 300 people.) This is not only because it is relatively tiny, being crammed in a tiny pizza slice between 27th and Grand, with Broadway on the western end and Harrison on the eastern, but also because this is mostly an industrial/commercial area.

The main reason to come to this area, however, is not to find an apartment or get your car fixed—though you can do both of those things here—but to check out some of the night spots. One of these cool spots is the Mua Lounge. Mua is part restaurant, part bar, part art loft, with art work on its high ceiled walls and a lounge balcony that looks down on the space. You can have everything from the home-made sausage or mac & cheese (both excellent) to a crab sandwich. MUA also has nightly djs spinning funk and soul—and given the high proportion of Vampire Weekend fans who make up the clientele of this joint, it is always worth a good laugh watching their uncoordinated attempts to get down (who needs to go to the Improv with this kind of entertainment). What is no laughing matter however, is the MUA signature cocktails like the Strawberry Ginger Lemonade, the Pineapple Martini, and especially the Crazy Pisco (with Brazilian cachaça). These drinks are so seriously addicting that you are bound to find yourself joining those fools on the dance floor, and thinking that the white man’s overbite is cool again (as if it ever was).

If you’re into slightly overpriced coffee spots, you will love Farley’s right by the epicenter of fun places Broadway and Grand. This is the kind of place that girls with names like Kendall and Chantelle just go gaga over and where they do things like get the foam on your latte to morph into the shape of a heart. This is nice enough, I suppose, but it just feels like they are trying too hard at this location. The books and art on the walls are nice, too. (Go to the Farley’s in SF and get the authentic Farley’s experience.)

This is also home to TD Café (nothing to write home about), Manaida Thai (sp?) (okay if you want some Thai though there are better in the area), Soprano’s Pizza (must be a front for organized crime because the pizza is just so-so) and Trueburger—definitely the place to go for a burger, especially if you are off the meat, Vegans love this place.

So, in summary, MUA is the place to go in Waverly!
Pros
  • Mua!
Cons
  • Not much else other than Mua
  • A little scary at night
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Feb 04, 2011

"Deer, Raccoons and Skunk!"

Monte Vista Ridge is the neighborhood on the far northern end of Orinda. It is right across the road from Wagner Ranch Elementary (Old man Wagner was the rancher who first settled the area—well, if you disregard the Miwok who were here for ages before that gathering the acorns off the trees and living relatively peacefully while Old man Wagner’s ancestors were still in the Old Country).

This neighborhood is poorly populated even by Orinda standards. Only about six hundred people live in this neighborhood, and most of them off Monte Vista Road and Camino Pablo Roads. In fact, even six hundred seems like a stretch to me. If I would have guessed, I would say there were at most 100 people living here. The whole area is mostly hilly Contra Costas climbing up to Tilden Park. In fact, Wild Cat Canyon Road, the last signal light before you leave Orinda in your back mirror, is a great place to drive up to get a great view over the whole valley and the reservoir to the north.

What few homes I do know about are either really nice looking Ranch homes or newer style homes that look like modernized Craftsman homes in the Maybeck style. In otherwords, lots of terraces looking out over the valley, lots of exposed beams and the dark shingled look that has come to characterize that style. Put simply, some nice homes close to completely unpopulated areas—enjoy the deer, raccoons and skunks!
Pros
  • Secluded
  • Quiet
  • Nice Homes
Cons
  • A Little Desolate
  • Erosion
  • Wildlife
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Feb 04, 2011

"A Pleasant Little Village"

Orinda Village is the main drag or half of the “Downtown” in Orinda. It is actually just about four blocks worth of stores. There are two gas stations, three mechanics, a supermarket, the post office, a Rite Aid, a bookstore, three coffee shops, about five restaurants (including the yummy though overpriced Orinda Pizza for which I delivered pizza back in college; and three Thai places), a couple of haircut places, a dry cleaners, a stationary store, a Tai Kwon Do place, and a tutoring place. Basically its got all of the things you might want in a pleasant little “village.”

Orinda is a fairly small community—circa 17,500--. It’s made up of the very affluent, including CEO’s and white collar professionals with luxury cars and the usual trappings of wealth. This is not to say that it is all mansions here or anything like that, but there is a country club and general feeling that price is not the central concern. For example, when the local schools try to raise money, their goal is usually over $1 million (as opposed to say schools in Walnut Creek where the goal is less than half that amount).

Orinda Village is home to the main park in Orinda, Orinda Community Park. It is a pleasant little park to take your kids. It includes a spot for younger kids, and spot for slightly older kids. You also have tennis and racquet ball courts on the other side of the park. At the back of the park this is a shady amphitheatre where kids can pretend to put on plays for their parents (a favorite with my little ones). There is also a retirement community back there, so you often see older folks coming out for walks.

The Orinda Public library is also in this area. Overall, this is a nice pleasant area where you can get a bite to eat or groceries. Kind of dull, but functional. (Also the farmers market is here as well.)
Pros
  • Pleasant Downtown
  • Good Restuarants
  • Good Park
Cons
  • No Night Life
  • Kind of Boring
  • Not Very Diverse
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Jan 28, 2011

"Average Except for Richardson"

This is a relatively poor, mostly residential neighborhood bordering the western edge of the MacArthur Freeway. The neighborhood is made up of older bungalow style homes, typical of Oakland in general. Some of the homes are actually very well kept and they are kept in a state of authenticity that would make historians and preservationists proud. This is a hilly neighborhood that sloops upward towards the Piedmont area on its western half as it nears the freeway. As you might expect, rents are higher as you near this western edge, as the streets become less flat, get slight views over the city and take on an attractive, very Bay Area feel to them.

The weather in the area is also conducive to those Romantic in spirit, filled with the kinds of fogs and drizzles that make the poetry flow. This, combined with the moderate rents is part of what makes it attractive to students who are often the tenants here—often sharing the homes with other students. There are some stores—but few of them are anything more interesting than auto repair shops or liquor stores as far as I can tell, so I will spare you the blow by blow.

One exception to the usual run down looking apartment buildings and bungalow homes that make up this neighborhood is on the northern end where Richardson Blvd. cuts through Glen View park leaving a series of attractive, older hillside apartment buildings that stare our over the park and over the city on their upper floors. If it weren’t for the noise of the adjacent freeway, this would be sure to be an even more impressive real estate hotspot. As it stands, it is still a pretty good find for those who are not bothered by the highway noise.
Pros
  • Nice Park Area
  • Good Avenue
  • Nice Sloop
Cons
  • Crime
  • Run Down Looking in Spots
  • Old Building Problems
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 1/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 5/5
Jan 28, 2011

"Greyhounds, Fat Cat's, Fox's, and Bears on Ice!"

Bordering Downtown, San Pablo Gateway is both a center for entertainment and food. There are five theaters that call this neighborhood home. One of the centers of the activity in this Oakland neighborhood is the Paramount Theater. This is, first of all, the home of Oakland Symphony and the Oakland Ballet. The multicultural Oakland/East Bay Symphony is an accomplished group of performers who once a month give a concert featuring a particular classical standard. Tonight, for example, they will be performing a Brahms Requiem; in February they will do Holst’s Planets. Oakland Ballet performs at the Paramount also, although due to the financial crisis, they have cut back their performances. Besides these two Oakland fixtures, the Paramount Theater also hosts other musical and comedy acts. For example, this year Sarah Maclachlan and other similar music acts will play.

San Pablo Gateway, also called Uptown, is also home to the Fox Theater where popular rock bands like Ween and Yo La Tengo play. The theater itself is one of those giants with towering coffered ceilings, balcony seating and the Fox’s trademark gilded Buddhas bookending the stage and the dance area just in front where fans get down when they go see their favorite bands. If laughs are more your boat, then you might head over to the Pan Theater instead. The Pan Theater is host to a comedy troupe in the vein of Chicago’s Second City—often it makes for a very fun night out. Similarly, the New Parrish (not a religious location) hosts comedians and a slew of musical performers from East Coast rappers to acts from yesteryear, like Camper Van Beethoven.

The area is also home to Oakland School for the Arts, an alternative high school devoted to providing strong academics mixed with theater training. Focusing on underprivileged urban students, OSA is a testament to the power of arts in helping create a sense of meaning and direction for kids who might otherwise fall by the wayside. Where as only about half the students in the greater Oakland Unified School system graduate from high school and even fewer go on to a college education, OSA graduates almost 19 out of 20 of its students, and, with the special pre-professional training that OSA offers, many of these students end up at top arts colleges as well as other prestigious academically oriented colleges where they tend to continue doing well.

There are also a number of bars in the area, like Café Van Kleef, a bar/lounge that has the kind of aesthetic of a cool college coffeehouse, with busy flea-market chic décor highlighted by the large tapestry hanging on the wall by the entrance. The scene is a bunch of figures sitting at a table, similar to a famous Rodin dining scene, however, instead of the figures from the famous painting you get a series of famous popular figures like Keith Richards. The location is also a live music venue featuring soul, jazz and blues types singers and the crowds tend to be on the older side. Café Van Kleef is also known for the Greyhound—a citrus martini kind of a drink—very, very popular.

If you’re looking for a gay bar, try Banker and Bar though be careful there’s always a $10 cover, a very busy, sweaty scene, and expensive drinks. Easy to quickly run up a $100 tab without even noticing. If you prefer your dancing straight, go to Para Diso—two bars, two dance floors, so its like going to four places for the price of one. Very classy atmosphere.

If you’re into trying to achieve transcendence through movement/dance, you should try Ecstatic Dance on Broadway. You will have to have an open mind however, its that kind of a touchy feely scene that really creeps some people (me) out.

The Uptown, kind of a classier Mama’s Buzz Café, is another great nightspot where you can catch live bands and get strong liquor. The venue, known for occasional secret Green Day concerts (they got their start in the Bay Area and like to give back apparently), also has a Monday night burlesque show and a live Wednesday’s locals night. A great mix—always happening.

If you’re looking for a great late night burger place or a place to take a date, Luka’s Taproom is a great bet with their French style hamburgers, occasional live music, excellent choice of tap beers and a joint named after a stray dog. There is also Hambrick’s Giant Burgers, but I have a soft spot for Luka’s. Or you can really go all out, and check out Uncle Willie’s BBQ—Uncle Willie really knows his stuff. For sandwiches try Fat Cat’s.

For something a little classier, try Floras, a really cool 1930’s style restaurant with that classically sleek art deco style and art—minimalist but with perfect pitch. The Rock Cod sandwich, the burger and the polenta are all great. (Another great date spot.) For a really high end version of a similar experience you might try dimmer, more romantic (and expensive) Plum by the corner of Broadway and Grand, perhaps the most happening corner in Oakland. It is an open kitchen restaurant so you can see the Chefs and Sou-Chefs preparing your meals, which really are works of art the way they arrange your meals on the plates to look like floral patterns. The décor is also amazing with photos of plums artfully displayed along a polished wood-tiled wall and high hanging lamps—very chic!

I could go on like this about what there is to do in this neighborhood, but I think you get the point—it’s a food and entertainment destination.

Oh yeah, and if you just want to catch a Cal Ice Hockey game or to take in some skating yourself, the Oakland Ice Center is the place to go. The very nice ice rink is fantastic for skating—makes for a great date spot—but be sure to check the schedule first as they often book the rink for events—such as Cal Bears Ice Hockey games. Go BEARS!
Pros
  • Outstanding Nightlife
  • Great Restaurants
  • Great Arts School and Scene
Cons
  • Residential Area is Poor
  • A Little Dangerous
  • Parking Costs
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Jan 28, 2011

"A Mama, a Stork, and a Pican"

Although this is another fairly run-down neighborhood, there are a high number of stores and nightspots here that can be a draw if you are single and adventurous.

Let’s start with Mama Buzz Café on the southern end of the neighborhood. This cool, hipster hang is definitely worth a visit if you are a member of the vintage shirt and side burns set. From its fair trade coffee and veggie sandwiches to its cool (sometimes almost aloof) employees, Mama Buzz is definitely at the heart of the authentic hipster scene in Oakland. Not only is this a great place to hang out and argue about whether Arcade Fire is overrated or pretend to study for your exams, this is also where you can check out the art scene on First Fridays and hear local up and coming bands as they try to perfect their acts. Verrrrry cool!

Just down the street is Stork Club, a dive bar with very cheap, strong drinks and a very highly touted burlesque show on Friday nights. Definitely the place to go to get your Bukowski on.

If you would rather just get some very cheesy pizza instead, then you should check out Amazona’s just down the street—very tasty. On the other hand, if you are in the mood for something a little more off the beaten path, try Shashamene Bar and Grill—Ethiopian food in a sports bar venue. Now there’s a mix you don’t come across very often. Other great choices as far as eating go, are Off-the-Hook Seafood, Ozumo Japanese and Picán, a southern style lounge/restaurant which is the place to go for beignets and bourbon. (They have a dedicated “Bourbon Room”, that is how seriously they take their spirits.) Also, there is no happy hour at Picán—there it is called “Social Hour” 4-7—ahhh, nothing like Southern style charm!

The neighborhood’s proximity to the more affluent areas near Lake Merritt have made it a hub for fancy pet boutiques as well, from Just Pet Me Country Club to Pride and Pedigree. And, if you tire of your night spot choices in the neighborhood just head over to the corner of Broadway and Grand for a good dozen other cool spots within five minutes walk.

Though Temescal has got all the publicity in the last ten years for being super cool hipster and gourmet restaurant neighborhood, Northgate-Waverly has quietly become the headquarters of Oakie hipsters and Postmodern Beatniks.
Pros
  • Hipster Headquarters
  • Great Restaurants
  • Great Bars
Cons
  • Crime
  • Dirty
  • Run-Down Looking
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 28, 2011

"Providence Hospital, Churches and and Temple"

This is the home of Alta Bates Summit Medical Center and several other satellite medical related businesses like chiropractors and diagnostic labs. Summit is a widely respected medical facility that can treat everything from gun shot wounds to cancer. This is the central feature of the neighborhood.

One of these satellites is Samuel Merritt University—a nursing school that helps graduate many of those who work in the hospital.

To the west of Telegraph, the neighborhood is largely residential with older Victorians and unusual looking two story bungalow style homes characterizing the area. The neighborhood is right at the junction between the MacArthur Freeway (580) and the Grove Shafter Freeway (24).

The predominantly African American neighborhood is home to at least two places of worship that I know of. On the western end is St. Augustine Episcopal—in a big red painted church that dates back to 1920. St. Augustine is a welcoming family church with a fairly diverse congregation and a charismatic rector. On the eastern end of the neighborhood is Temple Sinai which is equally well-loved by its Jewish congregation. Both are great for kids. (Abyssinian Missionary is also on the north of the neighborhood but I don’t know much it.)

This is largely a poor urban neighborhood with the usual urban problems you might expect. However there are a few cool night spots and it is very close to the trendy Temescal neighborhood—so you would definitely have a place to go for dinner if you lived here.

On the southern side of the neighborhood you also have a great little nightspot, Z Café and Bar. A cool place to go on a Friday night you if you are single. There is also the Korean Restaurant, Wore Raing, but I have never been there to vouch for its quality or lack thereof.
Pros
  • Good Religious Congregations
  • Low Rents
  • Good Hospital
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • Freeway Noise
  • Run Down Looking
Recommended for
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 21, 2011

"Another Old Rundown Neighborhood"

Southwest of the junction between the Grover-Shafter and the MacArthur Freeways, Hoover is yet another poor neighborhood in West Oakland—an area that is uniformly made up of poor neighborhoods despite attempts to help improve the area. As with other neighborhoods in West Oakland, Hoover also has a series of rundown old homes. The vast majority of the homes here were built before 1950.

Put simply, it is too dangerous and rundown to move here.
Pros
  • Affordable Housing
  • Clos to Transportation
Cons
  • Ugly
  • Gangs
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 21, 2011

"Another Run Down Neighborhood"

This is in large part an industrial area with wide lanes and unattractive warehouses with doors covered in graffiti. It is not unusual to see vagrant types pushing around shopping carts in this area either.

Many companies occupy this neighborhood. Many of them are directly related to the shipping industry or have to do with heavy duty labor like the fixing glass, metal and rigging companies that have their headquarters here. You can also find a Toyota parts place here, a stove place and a papermaking place. When people speak of our nation turning away from the down and dirty of actually making things, they are definitely not speaking about this neighborhood.

The houses that do crop up here are older, rundown looking Victorians and bungalows with walk ups. In fact, almost three quarters of the homes in this area were built before 1950—and they unfortunately look as if they haven’t been maintained since then either. There is some slightly newer row housing here which is tightly packed and reminiscent of working class neighborhoods in Northern Ireland in away—though without the attractive brick facades that make those Irish neighborhoods oddly appealing to our Americans minds.

At the center of the neighborhood is Mcclymonds High a well-respected and well-run public school that receives pretty good reviews when test scores are considered.

On a personal note, this is the neighborhood where I often had lunch back when I briefly worked at the port. There was usually mobile Mexican food truck that would roll in. This however, is not a recommendation. I never really found a dish that I enjoyed (they were quite frankly pretty awful, even if you were hungry for it at the time) and after eating something from this van I would often feel quite unwell later and get the runs within a week. Definitely not worth it.
Pros
  • Affordable Housing
  • Industries
  • Proximity to Public Transportation
Cons
  • Ugly
  • Gangs
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Jan 21, 2011

"A Touch of South Africa"

Clawson is a poor neighborhood to the southeast of the junction of the MacArthur and the Nimitz Freeway. The average household income in Clawson is only $30K.

The area on the eastern edge of the neighborhood is filled with worn out looking walk-up bungalows, many, obviously in need of repairs. It is not unsual to see debris scattered about the street in this area and barbed wire atop fences. Front lawns are generally sectioned off with metal fencing and it is not unusual to come across empty cement covered lots on residential streets. The streets themselves often feature cracked asphalt, while blue tarps are scene throughout the neighborhood on roofs where leaks have developed (even sometimes over the tops of campers and cars). Everywhere one has a sense of homes and businesses being fortified against possible invasion or theft.

On the western edge of the neighborhood you come across waste disposal companies, quarries, the detritus of the ports, and some of the round houses of intermodal companies that switch cargo from rail and ship and train. This has long been one of the major stops of the Union-Pacific (Oakland is actually the end of the line for that historic rail and you can still see the remains of it here) along with the towering cranes that pick the stacked containers off ships from Asia and South American.

Running right through the middle of this ugly industrial area where only tractors and forklifts really look at home, is Mandela Parkway, which at this point has a beautifully manicured green space in its meridian. The odd juxtaposition of the memorial to the great political activist and this most unwelcoming environment is either a terrible joke, or oddly appropriate given the stark realities that the man went through on Robin Island just off the coast of South Africa. Either way, if makes for a compelling visual space.

I suppose someone with an artistic eye also might find it ironic that just across the street from the monument on this southerly facing parkway should be one of the new fangled gentrified condominium complexes that were part of Jerry Brown’s plans to transform Oakland. This complex is particularly interesting because the dark shaded pastel buildings are designed in a post-modern form of architecture that employs cubic projections from the upper floors and stark metallic balconies to look out over Mandela Pkwy towards the bay.

Of course, like everything else around here, the complex is guarded by high metal walls and heavily reinforced doors of the kind that look like they could take a good half-hour beating from a battering ram without giving.

So we have a new apartheid right in northwest Oakland, where the well off can separate themselves from the poor that surround them in a walled city of their own. This is a very strange space indeed.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
  • Close to Emeryville and Freeway
Cons
  • Gang Problems
  • Dangerous
  • Delapadated Homes
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
Jan 21, 2011

"Another Housing Project"

Peralta Villa is a housing project in West Oakland, just to the west of Acorn and east of Campbell Villa. It is a series of row houses all closely connected.

In the middle of the area is Cole Elementary and at the edge is the Oakland Housing Authority. I really don’t know much about this specific housing project other than this however.
Pros
  • Affordable Housing
  • Close to Public Transportation
Cons
  • Gang Problems
  • Ugly Housing
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Jan 21, 2011

"Maria's Coffee--The Only Bright Spot"

Like some of the other neighborhoods in West Oakland, Ralph Bunche is mostly a poor neighborhood. It straddles the southern end of W Grand Avenue, the major artery through this section of the East Bay. Rents throughout the neighborhood average around $900. One does see some signs of new construction in the area though they seem to be more urban housing by the way they are bundled together.

Stats for the area show that some two thirds of the residents here have nothing more than a high school diploma. About a third of the homes in the area date to before WWII and even with ACORN building newer low-cost housing for the poor in the area, only about one in five homes here seem to date to the ACORN housing booms of the 1970’s.

On its eastern end, the neighborhood is a mix of working class and poor families. The homes in the area are mostly split level Victorians with double doors separating tenants who share the location.

The poorest section of Ralph Bunche is between Market and Adeline where cracked cement roads and dilapidated Victorians make things feel as if they are slowly coming undone.

On the far western end is Ralph Bunche High and a mostly industrial area containing a handful of businesses. Ralph Bunche High is an alternative school with less than 300 students attending. I am not sure what its mission is. Businesses that make their headquarters here are Kavamore Press (creates business letterhead and that sort of thing) and a Lexus Parts dealer among others.

One stand out business in the area is Maria’s Coffee—just a great Third Wave coffee shop--definitely where you want to get your brew in the morning.

There were three shooting deaths here in 2007 but I don’t believe there have been any since.

Ralph Bunche, by the way, is a now largely forgotten diplomat who won the Nobel Peace Prize for bringing the 1947 Arab Israeli War to a peaceful resolution. Bunche was the first African American to get the Peace Prize, and though born in Michigan, was a graduate of UCLA.

This neighborhood has not yet lived up to his hopeful memory however.
Pros
  • Maria's Coffee
  • Affordable Housing
  • Good Public Transportation
Cons
  • Gang Activity
  • Run Down Homes
  • Poorly Kept Streets
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 4/5
Jan 21, 2011

"Not a Great Neighborhood"

Like many of the neighborhoods in this area, it is mostly a poor neighborhood. Residents live below the poverty line. This is especially true of the area to the east of Adeline and south of 14th street. The homes in this area are mostly made up of run down Victorians.

The effects of gentrification are beginning to make their mark to the area to the northwest of the neighborhood. This is only barely noticeable however, as the Victorians in this area are barely more well-kept than those in the other areas. The autos outside of the homes tend to be newer models, which I suppose is the telling sign.

Overall, however, I don’t think that I would feel safe moving into this neighborhood at this point. There is just too much gang-activity in the area.

One of the highlights of the neighborhood is KIPP Charter school. Unlike the nearby West Oakland Middle School that receives terrible evaluations when test scores and objective criteria are applied, KIPP has proven results educating its students. It is really a credit to the community.
Pros
  • Inexpensive Housing
  • Close to BART
Cons
  • Gang Problems
  • Worn Out Looking Neighborhood
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 21, 2011

"Model Public Housing"

Acorn is an infamous housing project in Oakland. It, like many such projects in Oakland, is associated with Hughey Newton and the Black Panthers who helped to create it. You may remember that during the 2008 presidential campagn there were attempts to tie Obama to ACORN, a group that tries to help poor income folks find housing. The group has since lost federal funding, but this neighborhood is named after them.

The two high rises by the freeway in this neighborhood were built as low income housing by Acorn backers. Unfortunately, this has not been a wholly successful venture. The residents of the area are chronically poor and seem to have little chance of escaping lifetime poverty.

The area has also been plagued by gang problems—with the Acorn street gang taking its name from the location where they were born.

That said, the Acorn feels cleaner and better kept than most neighborhoods with similar economic statistics. St. Vincent Day School has beautifully maintained facilities including not only the usual basketball courts but also a swimming pool. The row housing on the eastern end of the neighborhood looks clean and orderly though not particularly inviting. It is not the sort of place that you would choose to live, but if you did not have anywhere to call home and had a family to take care of, I think this would be a life saver.
Pros
  • Affordable Housing for Poor
  • Clean Well-Kept Streets
  • Good School Facilities
Cons
  • Gang Problems
  • Sterile Housing
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Jan 21, 2011

"West Oakland BART Station "

South Prescott is a tiny neighborhood just to the east of the giant Post Office hub that handles all the mail of the East Bay. This is low income area made up of run down old homes. It is a heavy crime area where police are a permanent feature.

Its central claim to fame is that it is home to the West Oakland BART station the last stop before riders slip off into SF. The West BART station is where on New Years day, 2009, Oscar Grant a young black man was shot by a white BART officer provoking strong protests. Grant was at the time of being shot, handcuffed and pinned to the ground. The BART Officer claimed he meant to Tase Grant, but accidentally pulled out his gun instead.

As far as the neighborhood goes, most other violence has stayed just outside of its borders, but I doubt this makes residents feel particularly safe. Put simply, not really an area most people in the East Bay would feel safe living.
Pros
  • The BART Station
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • Run Down
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
1/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 1/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 1/5
  • Schools 2/5
Jan 21, 2011

"A Dangerous Housing Project"

Campbell Village is a low-income housing project at the far western end of West Oakland. It is just north of the huge Oakland Post Office complex which is the major hub for incoming and outgoing mail for the East Bay.

This is without qualification one of the poorest neighborhoods in Oakland. There are lots of row houses here—basically these are homes that all attach together onto one long square unit that will run half a block in length with individual entrances and roofs for each. There is a mix of older and newer homes, all with that cookie cutter look of low income housing. The high unemployment rate in the area and the gang activity associated with it make this a high police activity location and police vehicles are a permanent fixture of the area.

There are some restaurants here such as Popo’s Pizza, but the stigma of the projects and gang violence keep most outsiders out of the area.

Put simply, this is not an area people go to unless they have business here.
Pros
  • Low Income Housing
Cons
  • Dangerous
  • Ugly Housing
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
Jan 21, 2011

"Galileo, Nellie, Dancing, and Hops"

As the name indicates, Acorn Industrial is an industrial area that includes the shipyards as part of it. You mostly find businesses that are in some ways related to the port in this area such as uniform and hardware suppliers , and it has a kind of ugly industrial look to it that isn’t particularly hospitable.

There are also some businesses you might not expect in this type of a neighborhood, however. For example, Galileo Learning, a company that organizes summer programs with an emphasis on continuing the education of young people in the Bay Area, has its headquarters here as does Linden Street Dance Studio, where people go to learn and improve their formal dance skills-very popular for those preparing for weddings. (Dance Magazine has its headquarters just two blocks away.)

As far as restaurants and watering holes, there aren’t many, but worth mention are Nellie’s Soulfood and the Linden Street Brewery. Nellie’s has very good food, though Nellie is a bit hit or miss when it comes to welcoming service. As far as getting a great dark lager in Oakland, you can’t go wrong with the Linden Street Brewery, one of those start-up breweries that really takes the care necessary to make hops exquisite.

That’s pretty much it for this neighborhood. Not where you want to live, but if you work near the port or live in West Oakland there are a couple of places worth checking out.
Pros
  • Some Interesting Businesses
  • Nice Offshore Breeze
  • Nellies and the Brewery
Cons
  • Ugly Industrial Look
  • Nowhere to Live
  • Not Much Here
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 13, 2011

"The Docks"

Prescott is a poor neighborhood on the farthest western portion of West Oakland. The map here includes not only the neighborhood itself but also the part of the Oakland docks that are adjacent to it—the ones right by the Bay Bridge.

The residential section of Prescott is filled with a bunch of tiny old bungalow homes that look to be in fairly bad condition with many of the them having boarded up windows. About half the homes in the area were built before WWII. There are also some boxy looking newer homes on its northern boarder. These almost look like those newer gentrification type constructions that are popular throughout Oakland. Here however, they are so tightly packed that the whole thing feels more like public housing than pricey condos.

There are also a couple of parks that might be nice if they weren’t located here. Raimondi Park where locals gather to play soccer just about every weekend it seems and Middle Harbor Shoreline Park which has great open green spaces and excellent views of the opposite.

The way that I know this neighborhood, however, is from having worked here a few years ago. I had been working for an inter-modal company that monitored and prepared for the transporting of goods internationally and throughout the country. As part of our services, we kept many container boxes in the yards. I was in charge of keeping track of which ones we had in the yards and which ones were somewhere else.

The streets around the docks themselves are just very industrialized. Once you get by how harsh they look, you come to find a certain aesthetic pleasure in the rusty look of the place and the pleasant Bay breeze the keeps you cool and brings with it a slightly salty tang. Also compelling to look at are the giant cranes that load and unload the ships. Of course, most people would just find going into this place day after day rather depressing, and I must admit that I didn’t really enjoy my job.

Although it was an interesting stop along my career, I would not want to have continued working there and I would not recommend that anyone live in this rather downtrodden looking neighborhood.
Pros
  • Good Bay Views
  • Very Industrially Quiant
  • Affordable
Cons
  • Rundown
  • Dangerous
  • Rust
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Jan 13, 2011

"Stick with Upper Laurel and Redwood Highlands"

Laurel is working class neighborhood sandwiched up against the Mac Arthur Freeway just to the south of Diamond. The homes in this neighborhood are, for the most part, really weathered-looking bungalow deals that look like they date back to before 1950 (almost half of the homes here do). There are also a number of the boxy types of apartment I associate with the 1970’s.

There are also, however, some restaurants and stores along Mac Arthur Blvd. For example, there is Gerardo’s (a good Mexican place) and King Kong BBQ. There used to also be a really cool gay bar here, Velvet, but it looks like it didn’t make through the Great Recession.

You can also, by the way, get a tattoo or piercing at the a place called Dragon’s Lair.

There is also the Imani Community Church, which fashions itself as a “Progressive, Afro-centric Community of Christians.” I really like that formulation and it points to the amazing diversity in this neighborhood with just about every race equally represented here.

That said, however, things look just a little bit too run down for me. I’m not sure I would enjoy living here.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
  • Hip Neighbors
  • Good Commerical Strip for Fun
Cons
  • Dirty
  • Rundown
Recommended for
  • Hipsters
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 5/5
Jan 13, 2011

"Both Hip and Affordable, Multicultural Neighborhood"

Upper Laurel is a middle-class mostly residential neighborhood just to the north of Mills College.

Upper Laurel is packed with California Bungalow style homes. Half of the homes in the neighborhood were built before 1950—not at all uncommon in this area. There are also a number of apartment buildings in the Upper Laurel area. These complexes sometimes present a false front, looking like a house in front but extending back along alley ways. In addition, there are some newer gated buildings in this neighborhood. Both kinds of apartments contribute to the high population density that this neighborhood has.

There are three schools in the neighborhood: Laurel Elementary, American Indian Public Charter School and St. Lawrence O’Toole’s. Laurel is a strong school that both tests well and has excellent community support. American Indian is also a very good, rigorous school. St. Lawrence O’Toole’s, on the other hand, has gotten mixed reviews from parents. Those that don’t like it claim that they have unrealistic expectations for students and that the staff is older and unresponsive to parents’ concerns. Since it’s a private school, I have no way to judge whether they do well on objective standards.

Upper Laurel’s main drag is MacArthur Blvd. There are several restaurants and stores along MacArthur. Restaurants include places like Louisiana Fried Chicken and Phnom Penh, both quite yummy. There are also an number of what you might call boutique stores. Mizaan, for example, is a really cool women’s clothing store with a similar aesthetic to Urban Outfitters, while Monique’s Clozet is a really sweet thrift store that specializes in women’s clothing as well. The one that I think is really unique, however, is Africa by the Bay, a store that sells everything African from clothing to body care products (such as moisturizers and shampoos). Very cool and very authentic.

There are even a couple of pretty good nightspots here, Laurel Lounge being the one that is on Upper Laurel’s side. Laurel Lounge is great neighborhood bar that has one of the most diverse clienteles you can find anywhere. It’s just a sports bar with a pool table--pretty standard, really--but seems to be right at the nexus where lots of different people from different walks of life congregate.

In the proverbial nutshell, this is a really hip, multicultural neighborhood with affordable homes and a feeling of authenticity.
Pros
  • Diverse
  • Good Store and Restaurants
  • Good Schools
Cons
  • A Touch Run Down Looking
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Jan 13, 2011

"Where MacArthur and Warren Meet"

Redwood Heights is an upper middle-class to wealthy neighborhood located right by where Highway 13 and Highway 580 meet. It is just across the way from Crestmont and Leona Heights on its eastern side.

The streets of the neighborhood wind gently through the hills and are lined by 50’s style Prairie homes, with overhanging roofs over wood columned front porches, and walk up steps. This is hillside living, so you get lots of homes that have terraced garages and starewells that curl down to homes below, or walkways up to homes perched up to survey the valley to the south. There are also the kinds of Prairie homes that start as single story structures but then as they move along the incline slide up over the garage.

Although many parents enroll their kids in private school in this area, the local elementary school, Redwood Heights Elementary, is an exceptional public school which is not only well-loved by the community but also gets great test results.

The neighborhood’s two parks, McCrea Park and Avenue Terrace park are solid as well—the second of which is good for letting the kids go for a run or kill some time.

A section of the neighborhood near Avenue Terrace Park is worthy of special note. It beautifully quaint Mission Revival style homes, really well kept with great southwestern looking gardens in the front. There is one home in specific among these that stands out, looking like a peasant’s hut (though not really—kind of a faux peasant’s house) with red clay tiles along the roof, adobe walls and French windows and what looks like a mud chimney atop. Really attractive.

Overall, a very good neighborhood where to raise young kids.
Pros
  • Nice Views
  • Good 50's Style Homes
  • Great Elementary School
Cons
  • Hillside Problems
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 2/5
Jan 13, 2011

"Mormon Temple and Greek Church"

Lincoln Highlands is an upper middle class neighborhood that stretches out at the edge of foothills of Oakland, just across the Warren Freeway from Woodminster, near where Holy Names College is located.

On its western end, the neighborhood doesn’t have great views for the most part because it is located on a very gentle grade. It does however have enough of an incline to create some interesting topography for the homes placed there—mostly Craftsman style homes dating back to before World War II.

As you get up by Charleston Road, however, the views become much more impressive.
The homes up in this area appear to be a little bit newer, dating from the 1950’s perhaps. You find lots of Ranch and Prairie Style homes up in this section of Lincoln Highlands. As one crests to the Warren Freeway side of the neighborhood—the eastern end—the winding streets become much more woody, the Ranch and Prairies slip back behind more leafy cover and the rents and homes price climb precipitously.

You will find the Oakland Temple and the Greek Orthodox Cathedral on this side right by Highway 13. Standing at the very crest of Lincoln Heights, the Mormon temple stairs out over the SF Bay in quite magnificent fashion. The walkway up to the Temple is lined by tall palms and a beautifully designed garden leading up to a fountain and the impressive frontispiece of the Temple. It is definitely an attempt to portray what some might view as heaven on earth—all clean and pristine. By comparison, the glassy dome of the Greek Orthodox church—just a few blocks away, seems much less impressive. In addition, the multiple story parking lot that sits adjacent to the Greek church takes quite a bit of the luster off what could be an impressive place of worship in most places.

Overall, a good place to live quietly.
Pros
  • Beautiful Temple
  • Good Leafy Streets
  • Quiet
Cons
  • A Bit Secluded
  • Views Could be Better
  • Hillside Problems
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 12, 2011

"Too Close to the Freeway"

Dimond is a long strip of neighborhood sandwiched between MacArthur Blvd. and MacArthur Freeway. It is technically a middleclass neighborhood though it looks a lot more rundown than most middle class neighborhoods.

As with the other neighborhoods around this area, there are a lot of classic older buildings here that those who love architecture will appreciate. More than half of all the buildings in this area were built during or before World War II. That means lots and lots of Craftsman style homes and large elegant apartment buildings (though there are some of those boxy 1970’s deals as well). Although it does not make the neighborhood feel wealthy (in fact, these homes give the neighborhood kind of a run down feel), the homes are all fairly varied and interesting to spend some time studying.

On its northwestern end, the neighborhood has a pretty good market, Farmer Joe’s and a sort of middle of the road sushi place, Nama. There is also a Kasper’s Hot Dogs and a few other restaurants about along with a good share of repair shops and a drug store, etc.

On the southern end of the neighborhood you find some of those pastel colored gentrification fortresses where the slightly higher income folks move in as the neighborhood begins to change. You see them all over the place in some neighborhoods, but they are just beginning to make a dent here. They are nice, I suppose, though they always feel a bit more like prisons to me than anything else.
Pros
  • Close to the Freeway
  • Good Transportation
  • Affordable Rents
Cons
  • Dirty
  • Run Down
Recommended for
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 09, 2011

"Just So So"

Upper Dimond in Oakland is a firmly middle class neighborhood just to the south of Dimond Park and straddling Oakmore (one of the nicest areas in the Oakland Hills). Upper Dimond looks, for the most part, like a lot of other East Bay neighborhoods—about half the homes date from before World War II and most are California Bungalow type homes with a good portion of smallish Mission Revivals as well. The neighborhood is on a slight incline as it begins climbing up into the hills, but this is not really the kind of hillside living that you get in places like Oakmore—these are mostly gentle grades without any real views to speak of. It is enough of a hill though that many homes take advantage to create walk up steps over garages that you have to drive down into. Its not a bad look for the neighborhood overall, but nothing spectacular.

As you get a bit farther up into the hills the homes, though still on small lots, become just slightly nicer and better kept, but only in barely noticeably ways—slight better kept lawns, nicer stone paving for the walk-ups, slightly newer paint jobs—nothing major, and only barely noticeable.

Sequoia Elementary is the local grammar school which is not only well-loved by local parents but also gets the job done when it comes to test scores. Especially when you compare it to some of the other nearby elementary schools that can’t seem to keep up these standards, Sequoia stands out for its excellence. Unfortunately nearby Bret Harte Middle School does not keep up this standard. Just outside of Upper Dimond, Bret Harte, though well liked by parents and teachers, hasn’t managed to translate this into positive test scores. In fact, it has some of the worst test scores in this area.

There is a little bit of a crime problem here as well—especially as you near the area by the freeway. In the last month, for example, there have been three assaults and a half dozen robberies (all within a block of MacArthur Blvd. on the western end of the neighborhood). This doesn’t make it the most dangerous neighborhood in Oakland, but it is worth noting.

Overall, this is a relatively affordable middle class neighborhood that doesn’t overly impress you either positively or negatively.
Pros
  • Affordable Houses
  • Pleasant Streets
  • Good Elementary School
Cons
  • A Bit of Crime
  • Old Home Problems
  • Bad Middle School
Recommended for
  • Retirees
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Jan 08, 2011

"A Bridge Between Two Freeways"

Oakmore is yet another of these tucked away hilly neighborhoods that hide out in the Oakland Hills. As with the other neighborhoods in this area, you can roughly divide the neighborhood between its eastern and western ends.

On the western end, near the freeway, the neighborhood is pretty much a middle class neighborhood. The lanes here are long and without side streets for long stretches and the homes that populate these streets are California Bungalows, Ranch Homes and the occasional Mission Style deals on small lots. The streets are leafy and mostly straight.

On the eastern end, as you move farther up into the hills it is pretty much a wealthy neighborhood. The streets up in the hills snake around the hills, offering up great views of the Bay and of Oakland. The homes perch along the hillside in various styles, all of which take advantage of the sight lines by pointing themselves out towards the Bay. Lots of porches and bay windows thus stick out along the hills.

The homes on the eastern end also vary greatly in terms of architectural styles so that you can find everything from unusual Contemporary houses, Modernist homes, some Tudors and some California Bungalows, about a third of these dating back to the 1920’s when this neighborhood was (like adjacent Piedmont Pines) carved out of the hills.

One of the cool features of the neighborhood is the Leimart Bridge that crosses over Dimond Park to connect Crocker Highland and Oakmore. Right by the bridge, there is a little commercial village area with a little market, a pizza place and some local businesses just so that residents don’t have to find their way down into Oakland to get basic necessities.

This neighborhood borders both Highway 580 on the western end, but also Highway 13 (right at the point where it turns into Piedmont Pines). The connection between these two sections thus gives the highly expensive area along Highway 13 a much more secluded feel than the other section on the western end of the neighborhood. You feel on the eastern side as if you are far away in the middle of woods. (Or you would if there were not so much traffic on the Warren Freeway.)
Pros
  • Nice Homes
  • Good Schools
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Hillside Problems
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 08, 2011
Editors Choice

"Solid Family Neighborhood"

Glenview is a mostly upscale neighborhood just to the south of Trestle Glen and Crocker Highland. I say mostly because although it is pretty much a middle class neighborhood near Highway 580 on its western end, it slowly ascends in terms of income levels as it climbs up towards its eastern end. In some cases, the wages as it nears its border with Piedmont actually rise to the six figure range on average. At this far end, the neighborhood bears a strong resemblance to its very posh northern neighbor.

For the most part however, Glenview is characterized by modest California Bungalow and Mission Revival style homes on gently inclining straight streets. There are views of the City and the Bay from spots, but not particularly outstanding ones. As with other neighborhoods in the area, 2/3 of the homes here were built before WWII.

This is a relatively safe family neighborhood. There has been only one killing in this neighborhood in about three years and in this one case, the victims were new to the neighborhood and had problems follow them.

At the southern edge of the neighborhood, is Dimond Park a long wooded space marking the border with Oakmore and the Upper Dimond neighborhood. Dimond Park not only has the usual play area and stretches of green space for the little guys, but a community pool that is well kept and where an assortment of summer programs are run. The pool is called Lions pool.

Down by MacArthur Blvd., you get a far great proportion of apartment buildings and rundown looking businesses. You can find a smallish market, a public storage place and a auto repair shop, for example—but they mostly have a rather dingy, 1950’s kind of look to them. You can also find a handful of churches in or just outside of the neighborhood and at least one synagogue. Many of these facilities also run daycare centers so they are good resource.

The schools in the area are Glenview Elementary and Edna Brewer Middle School. Edna Brewer is a pretty strong, progressively run school. Glenview however, despite being well liked by the parents, hasn’t seemed to translate this good feeling into student achievement—not, at least, in terms of test scores, which are middling at best.

Overall, however, this is a solid family neighborhood that is both affordable and diverse.
Pros
  • Affordable Housing
  • Okay Schools
  • Diverse
Cons
  • Small Homes
  • Hillside Problems
  • A Bit of Crime
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Jan 08, 2011

"The Tudors in the Oakland Hills"

Crocker Highland is the smallish hillside neighborhood sandwiched between Piedmont (the Crocker Park neighborhood) and Trestle Glen in Oakland. As you might guess from its location, it’s an enclave for the very wealthy. A walk through the neighborhood quickly reveals why this neighborhood would be such a draw for those who can afford to live anywhere. The high percentage of uniquely styled Tudors—4/5 of which date from before WWII--are so beautiful you could charge admission for the viewing (in fact, in 2004 the Berkeley Historical society lead a tour here 8 selected homes charging $30 to participants). It is not just the usual tall pointy roofs and beautiful windows—it is also all the extra touches like the addition of curving stairwells leading to the front doors, quaint little towers (like miniature mission bell rises) and ivy covered walls--that make you want to just sit and admire the aesthetic details of this neighborhood.

Here is a good website that gives you a brief summary of Crocker Heights and Trestle Glen with accompanying pictures. Its made by a local real estate guy who I have never met:

http://homesinoaklandhills.com/2010/02/real-estate-in-trestle-glen-crocker-highlands-oakland-ca/

The location too is a draw—just far enough away from the bustle of Oakland, though not so far that you can’t be there in minutes, makes this a perfect place to live. In addition, something about the hills make you feel as if you are very far away from it all, as if you are living in Swiss Chalet near Lake Geneva, instead of being right at the edge of a huge metropolis. With the rolling evening fogs, and hilly coolness, it really does make you feel as if you are living in a storybook.
Pros
  • Magnificently Beautiful Homes
  • Active Neighborhood Groups
  • Great Schools
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Old Home Preservation Problems
  • Hillside Problems
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Jan 08, 2011

"Nice Family Neighborhood Near the Lake"

Trestle Glen is an upscale residential neighborhood straddling Highway 580 just south of Lakeshore near Lake Merritt. The neighborhood keeps a fairly low profile—I rarely hear it mentioned, but it has beautiful historic homes (2/3 built before WWII) along its sprawling hillside streets. You have the distinct feeling of discovery as you turn corners in this neighborhood to find renovated Craftsman Bungalows that perch up over road sides with long stairs leading to the their shady front porches. Other lanes flatten out and give you wood beam ribbed Tudors with quaint big paned windows and tall pointy roofs. Still other lanes mix Mission Revival homes with their distinctive red tiled roofs and more classic squarish manorly homes (still not sure how to identify these kinds of old beauties). Many of the homes have leafy back lawns with rows of trees used for privacy property demarcation. All of these homes have been adapted to suit the hilly landscape and peculiarities of the sometimes irregular lots on which they were built. The effect is quite pleasing and you can see why the well-heeled flock to live in this neighborhood.

Not to mention that you are just a hop skip and a jump from Lake Merritt and the entertainment and restaurants of the area. As you might expect, rents and home prices in this area vary greatly from the areas nearest to the freeway, where they are closer to $1,000 (the neighborhood is firmly middle-class) to the areas farther up into the hills where they climb to over $2K on average. Home prices show a similar variation, with the smaller, squatter California Bungalows at the edge of the neighborhood costing in the vicinity of $700K (back in 2008—so this is probably inflated); while the larger Tudors on the interior eastern neighborhood climb to $1 Million (again in 2008 prices).

The other factor that makes this a great family oriented neighborhood are the strong schools. Edna Brewer Middle School, for example, well liked by local residents partly because the administration there goes out of their way to try to keep parents involved. Many student clubs and organization keep morale positive and protect students from things like bullying (there are for example a school approved gay awareness organization and African American clubs on campus).

There are a couple of churches and a synagogue down by Park Ave. at the southern end of the neighborhood and a day care center or two on the border approaching Piedmont.

There is also a cute little strip of shops up Park Ave. by the corner with Glenfield where you can get a pizza or some film developed, that sort of thing—if you don’t want to brave the crowds along Lake Merritt.

In a nutshell, this is the place to live if you are looking to raise a family and want to stay near the Lake Merritt area (here and anywhere in nearby Piedmont, of course).
Pros
  • Beautiful Historic Homes
  • Good Schools
  • Leafy Streets
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Old Home Problems
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 07, 2011

"Near the Lake"

Lakeshore is the triangular Oakland neighborhood that stretches out to the south of Grand Avenue, right by where the Grand Lake Theater is. Lakeshore is the main drag in this neighborhood (not surprisingly). Most of the stores and restaurants here are pretty mediocre (a cheese steak place, an accountant, a car repair place) but there are a couple of notable exceptions: Easy Lounge, a chill little bar, and Mezze, a great Mediterranean Food place where the food is so good, you will tolerate the often terrible service.

In terms of living here, this is a pretty good choice if you like the lake. I had a college friend who lived here briefly about ten years ago and he really liked it. Many of the homes, like his have views down to the lake and proximity of it also makes for a great place to go for a jog or a walk.

Lakeshore is a roughly middleclass neighborhood down in its lower sections, but the farther up you climb, the wealthier it becomes so that, about the point that you cross Kenmore, you also cross into the tax brackets for those making six figures. It is actually a bit surprising when you drive up into these areas actually, since the homes themselves don’t really feel like the kinds of places that the superwealthy live in. They are nice—and the hills always add a lot to the value of an area—but to me, this neighborhood just seems over valued.

Despite this, there definitely are some nice places to live and some quant older apartment definitely worth mentioning.
Pros
  • Great Views
  • Quiant Neighborhood
Cons
  • Noisy
  • Property Crime
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Jan 02, 2011

"Morcom Roses, Grand Theater, and Rick Starr!"

Grand Lake is a middleclass residential neighborhood bordering Piedmont’s trendy Piedmont Avenue neighborhood. Grand Lake is a mix of older pre-World War II structures (about a quarter fit this description) and apartment buildings developed in the 60’s and 70’s (almost half).

Oakland Avenue is the wide lane that marks the northern border of the neighborhood. The apartment buildings that line this area are larger and nicer than many of those more run down structures deeper within. Oakland Avenue is really an amazing collection of period apartments interspersed with occasional large Victorian and Georgian style homes. The seventies style apartments, despite having that boxy look to them, also were clearly of the nicer variety—with balconies, walk-up steps leading to lobbies and nice decorative details of the kind you usually don’t find in these kinds of apartments. An added aesthetic touch to the street are the palms that line its sidewalks—it’s a little thing, but somehow the curving lane would look much less warm without it, I think.

You can find more homes on the interior streets of the neighborhood—mostly older Victorians, heavy looking Craftsmans and occasionally, Prairie Styles—but even there it is still apartment city with boxy, balconied seventies style apartments being the highlights.

One of the main attractions of this neighborhood is beautiful sprawling Morcom Rose Garden at this northeast corner. The rose garden is a throwback to a time when civic parks were treasured and makes you feel as if you have stepped back into the 19th century (even the keeper’s building is in an attractive Spanish Revival style with cream adobe walls and a tiled roof). The bushes are artfully arranged with walkways and well placed stonework to bring the bushes into full display—and what a display it is with big petalled roses of every shade and variety from pinks, to pales, to reds. So beautifully is the garden arranged that many choose to tie the knot here when the garden is in full bloom.

There are some much needed shops on Grand Avenue, such as a Safeway and an optometrist and similar things. This area is also where you can find a couple of good watering holes—the Tavern and the Alley and some nice restaurants—Mikado and Milano to name a few.

The highlight of the neighborhood, by far, and what brings most outsiders into it—is the Grand Lake Theater, one of those giant movie palaces that made going to movie feel like a real theatrical experience. The play list for this theater is also great and worth checking out. Not so great is the presence of Rick Starr—a tone deaf lounge singer that use to torture UC Berkeley students but now has taken to hanging out by the theater. He is crazy, but except for murdering 1950’s ballads, fairly harmless.
Pros
  • Great Rose Garden
  • Great Theater
  • Good Apartment
Cons
  • Busy
  • Traffic
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Jan 02, 2011

"Typical Peidmont Neighborhood--Great!"

The tiny Crocker Park neighborhood in Piedmont stretches out to the south of the small park that gives the neighborhood its name. It is a fairly typical Piedmont neighborhood—which means that it is filled with beautiful classic homes along pacific tree-lined streets. The architecture—though all classic (what the young would call “old”)—is varied. You can find a long flat Ranch Style house next to a squarish home with Tudor stylings. There are also a number of what I number of classic manor style homes (maybe Italianate or Georgian?).

Although there is no nightlife within the neigbhorhood, you can jump into the car and be to a neigbhorhood that has great restuarants and theaters in minutes.

Overall it is a really nice little neighborhood that is great for families who can afford to live here.
Pros
  • Great Classic Houses
  • Beautiful Streets
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Old Home Maintanance
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Jan 02, 2011

"Piedmont Cash and Gas"

These two blocks are not really much of a downtown. It’s just a few businesses—a gas station and a bank. There’s really nothing here worthy of giving it the moniker “downtown,” except that it is the only place with businesses in most of the Piedmont neighborhoods. Really, Piedmont Avenue should be and probably is considered Piedmont’s de facto downtown.
Pros
  • Cash
  • Gas
  • Park
Cons
  • No Supermarket
  • No Quiant Coffee Shop
  • No Restaurants
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment (1)
  • Follow
PiedmntREBroker
PiedmntREBroker The writer clearly doesn't live in Piedmont. Yep, downtown is small. It DOES include a grocery and the grocery also has great Peets coffee and a seating bar for informal chas--I even meet clients there!

But yes, it's not as downtown-y as Piedmont Avenue; for many Piedmonters, Montclair, or Lakeshore would be the "downtown" closest to the house--each with plenty of groceries, coffee shops/restaurants, offices and shops.
Jan 03, 2011
Add a comment...
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Jan 02, 2011

"Best Family City in the East Bay"

Piedmont is maybe the best of the hillside neighborhoods in the East Bay. It is a historic neighborhood that was once known for its millionaires and that still is home to many wealthy residents. Curling around the south face of Mountain View cemetery, Piedmont is largely a woodsy upscale neighborhood. But on it western end, Piedmont flattens out around its main drag, where you find a number of great restaurants, coffee shops, a theater and pretty good shopping as well.

I mostly know Piedmont for the Piedmont Avenue neighborhood area on its western end where I spent a great deal of time with a friend who lived there. It is a great place to live—the kind of place that you can get up in the morning and go get some coffee at a cool coffee shop, sit and read the paper or get some work done until noon-ish—then go for some lunch at one of the many top notch restaurants: Italian at Dopo, Chinese at Szechwan Gardens or even Ethiopian at Messob. Afterwards, you can catch a movie or drop down to the Grand Lake area of Oakland for some of the entertainments there.

The Piedmont Avenue neighborhood is the younger trending area of Piedmont, with a higher concentration of singles and lots of attractions that draw people in from outside the the city. You can find a fair number of older apartment buildings with a classic look to them that are really appealing. The smaller homes in this area are charming and cozy, making the best us of there smaller lots.

Most of the rest of Piedmont is more of family centered neighborhood and skews slightly older. Homes in the Upper Highland area, for example tend to be larger and almost manor-like. The farther east you go the leafier and hillier the neighborhood becomes—but the architecture remains the same: classic and beautiful, making use of the landscape to best effect always.

With its great schools—Millennium High School is one of the best public schools in Oaklnad—and peaceful, almost bucolic streets, Piedmont is a great place to raise kids as well.

Put simply, if you can afford it, this one of the best cities to live if you want to be just slightly removed from the craziness of places like Berkeley, but not so far away that it is a hassle getting there.
Pros
  • Classic Homes
  • Great Restaurants
  • Great Schools
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Not Enough Supermarkets
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Jan 01, 2011

"Nice Family Neighborhood"

This south most of the Piedmont neighborhoods is a purely residential neighborhood whose twisting streets stare out across the Bay. As far as the homes, its mostly modernized Colonials and English country houses, the first being big and square with fireplaces on one end and flat symmetrical facades; the later being largely brown and cream with decorative hips. There are also a fair number of Ranch and Mission Revivals as well—and few hybrids as well—but they are quite attractive and most have pretty good views. The homes make great use of the topography.

At the edge of the neighborhood there are two good private religious schools, Zion Lutheran and Corpus Christi. They are both well loved by the community.

That is pretty much it for this neighborhood.
Pros
  • nice hillside homes
Cons
  • expensive
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Dec 28, 2010

"Eclectic Hillside Homes"

Dropping down along the southern end of Oakland Avenue, the Piedmont Hills neighborhood is a web of gently slopes hillside streets with an eclectic mix of older, beautifully maintained homes including everything from Mission Revival to Craftsman styles. These are mostly not sprawling manors—the plots here are much more modest in terms of size—but they make such lovely use of the topography that an architecture student could spend a year here and learn as much about twentieth century architectural styles as in any set of graduate seminars.

It is the little touches that really draw you into this neighborhood—the way, for example that a hedge might be used to separate neighboring driveways, or how two Mission Style homes might look like mirror images of one another with garages placed jowl to jowl and stairs winding up ivy covered slopes to the front door in parallel. Each house in this neighborhood is a new solution to the problem and opportunity of space and incline. All in all, the beautiful irregularity of the neighborhood is its defining characteristic.

At the southeast edge of the neighborhood, you find the Davie Stadium tennis courts, which are perfectly located in a valley so that the wind is blocked out. There is an hourly fee for using the courts, but you will find that rarely is there an open court on the week end because of the beautiful location and ideal playing conditions. At the northern end of the neighborhood by Piedmont High School is Piedmont Park, a woodsy oasis at the heart of Piedmont. It is not a huge sprawling park but makes for a great place to take a walk and take in the tall trees.

You can also drop down to the Grand Lake Theater and the Lake Merritt area in just minutes.

Overall this is great neighborhood, just far enough away from the action to give you piece of mind, but close enough that you can drop down into at a moment’s notice.
Pros
  • Beautiful Homes
  • Peaceful and Quiet
  • Close to Lake Merritt
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Hillside Erosion Problems
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Dec 28, 2010

"A Classic Wealthy Neighborhood"

Nowhere is the wealth of the city of Piedmont more grandly displayed than in the Piedmont Estates neighborhood. The leafy sloping lanes of this area are lined with stately manors whose dormers and Mansard roofs stare imposingly down on passersby. There are a variety of architectural styles here, but the quiet, picturesque streets make one feel as if they are walking through story book vision of an early twentieth century wealthy neighborhood. There are also quaint Tudors and beautifully arranged Spanish Revival style homes here, tall pine trees and narrow winding lanes. Put simply, the neighborhood exudes both wealth and beauty as few others do.

At the corners of the neighborhood one finds Reservoir Two (in the northeast), Piedmont Sports Field (southeast), Crocker Park (southwest though away from the neighborhood’s border), and Piedmont High School (northwest). Although you are in walking distance of the quaint little village area of Piedmont and slightly farther on the Piedmont Avenue neighborhood and its many restaurants, the Piedmont Estates neighborhood is a purely residential neighborhood.
Pros
  • Beautiful Stately Homes
  • Leafy Lanes
  • Quiet and Safe
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Larger, Difficult to Maintain Homes
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Parking 1/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 4/5
Dec 22, 2010

"Manors, Pond, and Looping Road"

Barely two dozen homes, Tyson Lake is another pocket neighborhood that barely deserves to be called a neighborhood at all. It is little more than a looping road surrounding a tiny lake (oversized pond really). If it has one claim to being its own neighborhood however, it is the prevalence of Colonial style homes on this looping road. Very underrepresented in the Bay Area, these extremely symmetrical manor like houses really compliment the woodsy loop well. They are also interspersed with a smattering of Tudors and Prairie style homes which are far more common.

Another great little area to live, but hardly worth the designation of being its own neighborhood.
Pros
  • Great Big Homes
  • Nice Lake
  • Very Woodsy
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Remote
  • Wildfires and Erosion
Recommended for
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 1/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Dec 22, 2010

"A Little Echo...Echo...Echo"

Echo Canyon can barely be called a neighborhood. Rather, it is just a handful of streets stretching out over the edge of canyon. These narrow streets trickle down towards Mountain View Cemetery hiding beautiful homes whose styles are barely discernable from behind their woody, hilly fronts. This is definitely a beautiful secluded area but it really should just be thought of as a pocket of Central Piedmont.

That said, one of the distinctions of the neighborhood is the presence of beautiful metal street lamps, with glass birdcage like heads—a very satisfying effect, especially in this affluent, woody neighborhood.
Pros
  • Very, Very Woodsy
  • Cool Lamp Posts
  • Beautiful Homes
Cons
  • Narrow, Winding Streets
  • Expensive
  • Wildfires and Erosion
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 1/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Dec 22, 2010

"Woody Views of the Bay"

Much like its neighbor, the Upper Highland neighborhood, Central Piedmont too is an affluent neighborhood with a variety of homes styles. Unlike its neighbor, however, Central Piedmont’s stately Tudors, sprawling Mission style homes and Prairie homes, are built along sloping streets with great views of Oakland and the Bay. This neighborhood is a little less cozy than its neighbor, but well worth it, nevertheless.

Up near Scenic Drive where the grade becomes more precarious, Central Piedmont makes the best use of its space by narrowing the streets to little better than alleyways, and stacks home into multiple stories so that they can give the best views and use of space. For those who love architecture, they will enjoy seeing how the architects manipulate the constructions to overcomes limits in space and tricky slopes.

The streets are very clean, often windy, and very woody. If you like that kind of woodsy living, you will love this piney neighborhood.
Pros
  • Beautiful Architecture
  • Secluded
  • Great Views
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Out of the Way
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Dec 22, 2010

"Chateaus, Highlanders and Bird Callers"

The Upper Highland neighborhood is a residential neighborhood just to the east of Mountain View Cemetery. It is most reminiscent of the Claremont Highlands neighborhood up near the Caldecott Tunnel. The clean, leafy streets are lined with stately homes. Typically, you will find large symmetrical manors, sprawling Mission Revival style homes, beautifully decorated Tudors or woody Chateaus here. Some homes give themselves privacy by curtaining their front lawns with tightly planted rows of high trees—often pines. Others offer more open access to their front doors via thoughtfully kept front lawns leading to front stairs.

If these beautifully tailored homes were not enough to tip you off to the luxury of Upper Highland, the latest model autos parked along the street should be enough to confirm your suspicions.

At the heart of the neighborhood is Drocena Park, a lovely spot to take the kids with its rolling greens and sandy play area. The entrance to the park is marked by stone columns which give the whole place an elegant feel. Nicely tucked away, the park is largely only used by locals.

This family neighborhood borders Havens Elementary, Piedmont Middle School, and Piedmont High School—which are all within just a block or two of each other, so they are perfect for large families. Piedmont High School is truly outstanding both in academics (where it offers almost two dozen AP Classes) and in terms of extra-curricular activities where both its clubs and sports are particularly strong. One of the quirkier aspects to the school is that it holds an annual bird calling contest.

Overall this is a wonderful, affluent neighborhood where most of us would be lucky to live, if we could afford it.
Pros
  • Beautiful Streets
  • Great Schools
  • Diverse Homes
Cons
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comments (3)
  • Follow
PiedmntREBroker
PiedmntREBroker Hi: This writer has no idea about this neighborhood or its environs. See my blog (www.tinyurl.com/piedmonthome) for info about the neighborhood and my site (https://sites.google.com/site/piedmontinfo/) for census info, photos, etc.

I mean, 7 SF Chronicle top 100 restaurants within walking distance, to say nothing of the movie theater on Piedmont Ave. and this part of Piedmont ranks low on the Nightlife and Eating Out scale?

If someone asks nicely, I'll write a blurb for your new site though---

Maureen Kennedy, Licensed Real Estate Broker, Pacific Union International
104 Pala Avenue, Piedmont
Dec 23, 2010
NightOwlnOrinda
NightOwlnOrinda I think the movie theater and restuarants are in the Piedmont Avenue area of Piedmont. Within what is marked as the actual Upper Highland area I don't recall there being any of these. Its always tricky to rate a neigbhorhood bordering a neighborhood that has really great nightlife. Do I give the neighborhood really high nightlife ratings for what is in the neighborhood next door or for what is within its own borders?

But point taken--I'll revise accordingly.
Dec 23, 2010
NightOwlnOrinda
NightOwlnOrinda My only point is that if you are coming from outside, you are not going into the Upper Highland area to go to a restaurant or to catch a movie; you are going to the Piedmont Avenue neighborhood. If you read my review of that neighborhood, you will see that I more than acknowledge the many things to do there. (Actually not having a nightlife is sort of a good thing in a residential neighborhood, despite the fact that it is listed as a negative in the ratings.) Okay, enough said.
Dec 23, 2010
Add a comment...
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Dec 21, 2010

"One of My Favorite Stomping Grounds"

The Piedmont Avenue neighborhood is a great swath of neighborhood that rolls down from the Mountain View Cemetery all the way to the freeway. Piedmont Avenue is the heart of the neighborhood and has a wide assortment of stores and restaurants that make it hugely appealing to students and married couples. I had a close college friend who lived in Piedmont after college and so I spent a lot of time hanging out with him in this neighborhood.

Living in Piedmont is itself quite nice. You are just far enough away from the main action of Oakland that you feel relatively safe. You don’t worry too much about crime (not any more than you would any other place in the East Bay anyway) and Piedmont itself, despite being fairly metropolitan, has a college town atmosphere.

The homes in the area are older, with about half predating the 1950’s. The neighborhood is so well-preserved, however, that the houses seem more quaint than decrepit. Street to street, you get substantial variations in terms what kind of architecture you will find. Up near the cemetery for example, you will tend to find Tudors and larger converted manors—all very stately looking. A bit farther down you might come across a street filled with smallish Prairie style homes, built on small lots typical of Depression era homes. Then on the next avenue you might find a row of older wood boarded apartments or a ten story high apartment building with balconies facing out in all the cardinal directions. The variety is quite appealing to those who find older architecture aesthetically moving. I must admit that it is one of the things that made me fall in love with this neighborhood.

Piedmont Avenue is quite the contrast to the relatively quiet neighborhood that borders it. A steady flow of traffic seems to constantly flow over the avenue past the many pedestrians. Parking is a bit of pain—especially if you are new to the area and haven’t figured out where and when spots are most likely to turn up. To really experience the main drag, however, you really need to hoof it.

One of my favorite activities on Piedmont was sitting in one of half dozen cafes and reading. They are usually packed, and unlike in Berkeley, the other studiers around you are far more likely to be graduate students, teachers, professionals and professors than fidgety undergraduates. Finding a seat is not always easy at any time of the week but mid-morning on a Sunday, you are just as likely to win the lottery as score somewhere to sit without a wait.

The ever changing roster of restaurants along Piedmont are eclectic and often delicious. If you are looking for a good Italian place, try Dopo. For Chinese try Szechwan Gardens just across the street. For tapas, go to Cesar’s, for French, the outstanding Gregoire with its ever shifting menu. If you are in the mood from something more out of the ordinary, you might try Messob, an Ethiopian place (Oakland actually has several Ethiopian places—I believe we get a lot of immigrants from that part of the world—not sure why). Put simply, Piedmont is like a round the trip culinary experience.

There are a handful of good nightspots as well, the Kona Club, Cato’s Alehouse and Adesso, a good gastro pub.

Although I am not that much of a shopper or fashion maven, you can also find a number of boutiques and hair salons along Piedmont. Some of the stores to be found there are Crackerjacks and the Bee’s Knees. For those fellow nerds out there, you’ll probably prefer Dr. Comics and Mr. Games.

Piedmont Avenue, however, is also a fully functioning residential neighborhood with grocery stores, drug stores, a couple of churches to choose from and pre-schools and childcare on either end of the avenue. In other words, this isn’t just a playground for twenty-somethings, young parents will also find Piedmont amenable to their needs and desires as well.

Put simply, this is just one of those great little hidden away neighborhoods that only Bay Area locals really know about.
Pros
  • Great Restaurants
  • Eclectic Classic Architecture
  • Great People
Cons
  • Very Busy
  • Bad for Parking
  • Too Many Great Choices
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Dec 21, 2010

"Not the Prettiest Neighborhood"

Mosswood is a poor neighborhood just to the northeast of the junction between Highway 24 and 580. Kaiser Permanente’s Oakland branch hospital is on the eastern end of the neighborhood and some of the satellites of the hospital are within the Mosswood neighborhood. (The Surgery Center, for example, is just off Telegraph next to the BART Station.)

This is basically Little Korea, so you will find a number of great Korean joints (including BBQ’s) up and down Telegraph in this area. One that is actually in the Mosswood neighborhood and not in Temescal to the north, is Seoul Gomtang. Of course, you will also find your share of Carls Jr.’s and such in this neighborhood.

The buildings here are also very, very old, most having been built before WWII. These structures are typical of the kinds of structures common to the East Bay—lots of bay windows and red shingled roofs. Some streets are largely bereft of tree cover, and what few trees there are are slim and sickly. This makes the stone surfaces of sidewalk and building seem all the more stark and inhuman. Luckily, many of the homes on inner streets provide lots of green bushes and shady trees to make up for the lack of shading from the sidewalk.

Several organizations and government entities take advantage of the low rents and place their offices here, including the Highway Patrol, the Cal State Auto Association, the Red Cross and the Alameda County Offices. For similar reasons, you will also find several law offices, laundries and repair shops. (Manifesto Bicycles has their shop at the northern end of the neighborhood as well.)

Overall this is not a particularly attractive neighborhood, but the rents are inexpensive and you are close to Temescal.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Close to Temescal
  • Good Public Transportation
Cons
  • Run Down Looking
  • Some Crime
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 4/5
Dec 21, 2010

"Still Up and Coming"

For the last few years there has been a lot of buzz around this neighborhood—everyone raving about how great it is. I must admit that I am a late-comer to seeing what is so great about Temescal. In fact, until last year I had never even heard of it. I know Telegraph pretty well, and love it down by the Berkeley area, but I must admit that I had never noticed anything particularly special about it between 52nd Street and 40th Street.

All this is only to point out what a blockhead I can sometimes be. Recently, I have finally begun to come around to a fuller understanding of what a really great neighborhood this has become. I am sure that if I were in college now, this would probably be the neighborhood that I would move to. So what is so great about Temescal?

A lot of it has to do with Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto neighborhood. Many of the chefs that came to cut their teeth on the culinary worldview of Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse decided to stick around and open their own places. They did not, however, want to stay so close to Waters and they did not want to pay the kind of rents that restaurants need to in order to stay in Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto. Instead, they looked for a neighborhood which was both inexpensive and would give them a clientele. Temescal fit the bill.

Temescal now has a number of appealing attractions. To begin, there are, of course, the restaurants. First of all, there is Bake Sale Betty’s on the northern end of the neighborhood—a great place for sandwiches. But you can also find a number of cuisines from around the world. There are a clutch of Korean restaurants, Burma Superstar, Café Eritrea D’Afrique and Asmara (an Ethiopian restaurant).

Although the financial crisis hit the arts community particularly hard, you will still find some remaining gallery and quite a few artists that moved into the area.

Put simply, this is still a pretty hip and trendy neighborhood that continues to evolve.
Pros
  • Great Restaurants
  • Strong Arts Community
  • Affordable Rents
Cons
  • Crime
  • Old Buildings
  • Becoming Gentrified
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Dec 19, 2010

"Between a Rockridge and a Temescal Place"

Shafter is the triangle shaped neighborhood just to the west of Rockridge that begins on the other side of College Ave. Technically, the western side of College is in the Shafter neighborhood, which means that many of stores people associate with Rockridge are actually in Shafter. The Rockridge Market Hall, for example, is on the Shafter side. Also on the Shafter side are Rockridge Two Wheels—a motorcycle shop—and Rockridge Kids—a toy store. In fact, this gives you a sense of the eclectic nature of the neighborhood, where residents can go to get toys for their kids and for themselves on the same afternoon.

There are also some good places to eat on the Shafter side of College—like Christohper’s Burgers and Saboy Thai. If you are into chocolate, you might try Bittersweet Café, and if you want a chill bar where you can hang, try George and Walt’s.

Shafter is nowhere near as swanky as Rockridge, however. Shafter is a middle class neighborhood with a good mix of residents from most all ethnicities and walks of life. The buildings in the neighborhood are, like the majority of the structures in Oakland, quite old. About two thirds of the buildings in the area date from before WWII. That means that you come across a lot of old Bungalow Style homes, Craftsman houses with their distinctly heavy look, and even the occasional Victorian. These are not the hilly kinds of streets that make so many of the eastern areas of Berkeley so attractive, but more like the flatter uglier streets in the southern part of Oakland’s northern neighbor.

On the western end of the neighborhood, Shafter borders another trendy area, Temescal. On this end, you will find an assortment of stores, but especially worth mention is the Kingfish Pub—a great low-ceiling’d dive bar where you can watch the ball game, have some super salty popcorn, and—if you are a “chick” (what they call female patrons at the Kingfish) get hit on by super drunk older dudes before they pass out.

But the area isn’t just for hipsters. You can find a supermarket (an Oakland rarity) and fast food at the far southeastern corner of the neighborhood.

With the Rockridge BART so close by and good bus service, it is a more reasonable alternative for Cal Students that want to live at enough of a distance from the campus that they won’t constantly be running into classmates. You won’t really find great deals on rents here—not anymore than anywhere else in Berkeley—but you will find a good, safe out of the way neighborhood with some cool dive bars, if that’s what you are looking for.
Pros
  • Great Dive Bars
  • Good Shopping
  • Excellent Public Transportation
Cons
  • Old Houses
  • Ugly Streets
  • Crowded Restaurant/Shopping
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Dec 19, 2010

"Good Hillside Neighborhood and Golf Course"

As you might expect given the name of this area, much of this neighborhood is Chabot Park and its Golf Course. The southern border of the neighborhood is with Chabot Lake and you will find a lot of trees and green spaces here. Country lovers are sure to be drawn to it.

That said, there are two residential area in Chabot Park. The first is to the north of the golf course, in an area that could easily have been included with the Sequoyah neighborhood if there were not a natural border formed by Knowland State Park. Ranch homes characterize this area. As you go up the hill farther and farther, you find that the homes which start off as a bit shabby and worn seem to get spruced up and better kept, with the wide lanes near the top being pocked by palms and manicured lawns. The elementary school up by the crest, Grass Valley Elementary is a good school with great parent involvement.

You can also find pockets of streets here that are extremely narrow and curvy and much leafier, but for the most part there is a wide open feel to the neighborhood—the sort of use of space we associate with the large living fifties.

Down near the freeway, there is a bit of the neighborhood that could easily have been included with Sheffield Village across the freeway. The homes here are mostly prairie style homes and Craftsman styles. They are nice and give the neighborhood a very placid, old-fashioned feel. It is the sort of area you grandparents might live.
Pros
  • Nice 50's Style Houses
  • Good Views
  • Good Schools
Cons
  • Out of the Way
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Poor Public Transportation
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Dec 18, 2010

"Lions, and Eichlers, and Golf! Oh My!"

The Oakland Zoo makes its home here. Although it is largely overshadowed by the SF Zoo which makes perches at the Pacific’s edge across the Bay, I much prefer the Oakland Zoo. The SF Zoo has a much more crowded feel, and although it is interesting to see some of the older exhibition halls they have there, the more country like feel of the Oakland Zoo suggests a better environment for the animals. The main problem with the Oakland Zoo is that, since it is on a long incline, one must be willing to walk uphill at least part of the way. They also have a very good train ride that the kids love, and an amusement park attachment that is just okay.

The Zoo offers really good summer camps that back before the recession we used to let our oldest go to. If times were not as tight as they currently are, we probably would have continued to do so.

What a lot of people may not know is that there is a large hillside neighborhood that sprawls up into the hills to the east of the Zoo. The neighborhood is an ethnically diverse community made up of half African Americans and one third whites. The homes in the neighborhood are similarly diverse. Down close to the Zoo, there are a number of Prairie and Ranch Homes, that have a rather rundown feel. Many of the homes have boarded up windows or roofs with missing shingles. There are few newer homes in the neighborhood, with less than one in ten of Sequoyah’s structures having been erected in the last generation. (In fact, one third of the homes date to before WWII.)

It is in this lower area that you find some of the schools and day care centers that Sequoyah has to offer. One is the Horizon Primary, a pre-school located just adjacent to an apartment complex right by the noise of the freeway—not very pleasant from the outside, but I don’t really know much about it. The other is Northern Lights Primary School, a religious school that I believe is associated with St. Paschal Baylon Church, to which it is adjacent. It is well liked by the parents and tries to teach not only the usual curriculum but leadership skills as well. Sequoyah parents not satisfied with these choices can take their kids just across to the freeway or a little to the north where they will find at least half a dozen other choices in terms of both private and public schools and daycare centers.

Similarly, you can also find a number of churches in the neighborhood, including Sequoyah Community Church and the aforementioned St. Paschal’s.

One thing the neighborhood could use, however is a solid supermarket. There is a rather limited liquor store by the freeway and a auto repair shop that looks like it just stepped out of the 1970’s, but not much else other than a gas station by the entrance to the Zoo.

Up by Keller Road on the northern end of the neighborhood, you will find some the 1980’s style tract homes. Nice, bigger houses look down on the clean, modern looking four lane street and its center meridian that takes you up into the rest of the neighborhood.

A bit farther up the road by where Keller meets Hanson, you will find a classic Eichler neighborhood. I can’t be sure if this was one of the original such groupings of California Modern houses that the famous Bay Area based architect built in the 1960’s, but the distinctive centered roof giving way to flat wings to either side and the backyard pools are at the very least Eichleresque. The look is distinctively a 1960’s upscale style that once looked cutting edge and now looks classically stylish. The wide lanes of this area of the neighborhood with their gentle curves also just make you feel transported to a previous era in California architecture.

Along winding Sequoyah Road which parallels Keller, the neighborhood is considerably more bucolic and features large Craftsman style homes hidden away behind curtains of trees. At times it is clear that you are in the hills of the Contra Costa mountains, but at other times you could fool yourself into thinking you are more inland in an area near Tahoe or Bigbear because of how heavy the tree cover is and because the homes take on a distinctly chalet feel.

Hugging the extensive Sequoyah Country Club and its perfectly well-kept greens, you find an equally extensive clutch of long, squat Ranch Style Homes, on wide, beautifully maintained streets featuring bike worthy sidewalks and occasional palm trees.

And finally, overlooking the country club at the far eastern end of the Sequoyah neighborhood, you come upon a multi-tiered terrace of large and elegant Mission style homes. These are both the best views and the highest property values in the neighborhood, as you can tell by a simple survey of the luxury cars that laze on the driveways. With Chabot Park just to east over Skyline Blvd. and the Equestrian Center within walking distance, whether it is golf, hikes, or a good ride that appeals to these residents they can find it here.

There are also a few restaurants along Keller, and there is an occasional bus that ventures up Sequoyah, but these are barely worth mention. With the zoo, the country club, the park and so many different styles of homes, Sequoyah offers potential residents virtually every species of suburban living and easy access to the freeways to boot.
Pros
  • Great Diversity in Architecture
  • Ethnic Diversity
  • The Zoo
Cons
  • No Supermarket
  • No Stores
  • A Bit Run Down Near Freeway
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 3/5
Dec 18, 2010

"Oakland Style Country Living"

Leona Heights is an upscale neighborhood sandwiched between Merritt College and the Warren freeway. The large million dollar homes of this extremely woodsy neighborhood are nestled away along narrow winding roads. When driving through this neighborhood one feels as if one is out in the country. There are no sidewalks here and at many points the roads narrow to just one lane. Yet as one stares down or up at the huge manor-like homes one has a distinct sense of the wealth of the residents here.

Other than this seclusion, there is not much else to this neighborhood. One senses that residents like their privacy and this out of the way feel.
Pros
  • Secluded
  • Quiet
  • Large Homes
Cons
  • Narrow Roads
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Dec 18, 2010

"Merritt College and McMansions"

Just above Mills College in the lower half of the Oakland Hills, you will find Caballo Hills, home to Merritt College. Merritt College is one of the fine community colleges in the Bay Area. They offer a broad range of classes to an eclectic student body.

The neighborhood is also book-ended by two good parks, Leona Park in the southeast and Leona Heights Park in the northwest. These parks are good for hiking offering pleasant views of the Bay (as much of the neighborhood does) but many of the trails are poorly maintained.

The residential areas of the neighborhood are fairly heterogeneous. You get lots of newer McMansions up on the crest of the hill. These are sprawling newer structures resembling many of the condominium complexes that have become a fixture in the gentrification of Oakland. They are at once large, imposing structures while remaining somehow flimsy looking.

Down near the freeway on the southern end of the neighborhood, the streets feel more like a rural area with no sidewalks and dirt driveways. The streets slope along the natural contours of the hill and the homes are similar to those you find in the country—functional and worn.

In the center of the neighborhood, you have tightly packed condos—now exact replicas of the kind of gentrified apartments you see in the city. They stare across at each other like soldiers at attention, blocking out much of the view of the Bay with their perfect and unvarying symmetry. Up the hill from these structures are empty streets, clearly where the developers planned to erect more such structures just as the financial crisis hit.

Overall, this is a great diverse neighborhood in which to live and offers various choices depending on your preference.
Pros
  • Good College
  • Good Views
  • Nice Streets
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Too Much Gentrification
  • No Nightlife
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 4/5
Dec 18, 2010

"Tom Hank's High School"

One of the Oakland area’s most famous sons is from this area. Tom Hanks attended Skyline High School where he first became involved in drama. The upscale neighborhood, overlooking the bay (and both Merritt and Mills College) is nestled along Skyline Blvd. The high school is there as well. You might expect the school to receive really good scores from locals, and for the most part it does. The school has a great offering of extra curricular activities and AP Classes but, from the judgment of students and parents, there seems to be a bit of malaise about the school. Students often ditch classes and teachers seem uninspired (at least if anecdotal evidence holds true). Of course, this may all just be spoiled rich people complaining about the bounty they enjoy. Skyline High School is definitely not the kind of gang-plagued sister school at the lower elevations.

Along Skyline Blvd. at this elevation, you will find churches and the Hebrew Dayschool.

There are not very many homes here, but those that there are, tend to be newer and have great views of the bay. Overall, this is a great place to live if you like being up in the fog coated hills at the crest of Oakland Hills.

There is not much else to this neighborhood.
Pros
  • Nice Homes
  • Very Leafy
  • Great Views
Cons
  • No Night Life
  • Wild Fires and Erosion
  • Ifffy High School
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 3/5
Dec 18, 2010

"Ranch Homes and Bay Views"

This is a tiny hillside pocket neighborhood that you can easily miss if you are zooming by on the Earl Warren Highway. There are around 1,000 people who live here.

The majority of the neighborhood is made up of long, fairly straight and wide hillside streets. Most are on grades. They tend not to have many trees, which clears the way for the great bay views the homes have here. Most of the homes are Ranch Homes—over a third of them date to the fifties, and you will even find some garage doors with those brown diamond shapes on them that used to just scream SUBARBS! way back when. They are fairly expensive, around $800k and there are few renters in this area.

Near the freeway, you will find some newer construction—some gated communities of the kinds you might find in Orange County. Clay-tiled deals with no public access.

There is a supermarket and shopping center near the freeway as well that will give hillside residents all their basics. They get a fair number of Piedmont residents there as well.

On the southern end of the neighborhood is Carl Munck Elementary School (right next to Pinto Ranch Park). It is a good school with average test scores. Parents are involved, and teachers are dedicated by all accounts. Some parents have found the principle difficult to get along with, but overall most parents seem happy with the school.

Finally, one of the great aspects of this hillside neighborhood is its diversity. According to the 2000 census, about half are white, a quarter Asian and a fifth black. This makes the educational and cultural environment of the community richer than in some other upscale communities where the kids are likely to grow up oblivious to racial and cultural differences.
Pros
  • Nice Homes
  • Great Bay Views
  • Friendly, Diverse Community
Cons
  • Expensive
  • No Nightlife
  • Not Very Leafy
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 4/5
Nov 30, 2010
Editors Choice

"Not Just Holy Names, Theater and Views Too"

Holy Names University is at the heart of this hillside neighborhood straddling the western edge of Joaquin Miller Park. HNU is a college run by the Catholic Church. It was originally meant as a convent but has evolved. You can now study almost two dozen undergraduate subjects and the graduate programs offers a dozen masters degree programs. The college has a strong performing arts program and a growing program. The magnificent setting is also a big draw—very woodsy and with great views.

Woodminster is not really a college town however. In the hills behind the college, you will find a number of spacious homes and townhouses owned by executives earning six figures. Unlike many neighborhoods in the area, developers have built most of these homes since 1960. Although a full quarter of the homes are 1950’s Ranch homes these great Brady Bunch style houses find newer two and three story condos occupying the opposite face of their streets. In addition, the graded landscape of the hillside makes for an interesting building environment. The Ranch houses, for example, though being long and squat and starting as single story units, will often end as two story structures on the opposite end where the houses rest on their garages.

The condos opposite are in those multi-colored clay/stucco tones that is common to many of the gentrified communities down in the heart of Oakland. Here, however, these homes stare out over the rooftops of their Baby Boom era neighbors to take in sights of Oakland and the bay.

Up in the hills you will also find the Woodminster Amphitheatre, an outdoor venue operating in the summers and hosting concerts and plays—a great family friendly theater going experience in a beautiful setting. Just across the street from the amphitheater, still way up in the hills you will find one of the handful of schools and childcare facilities in the neighborhood. In this case it is a Montessori style school.

Down by the college you will also find all the typical stores you would want for a residential area: supermarkets and other similar stores. A lot of the frequenters here come from neighboring Piedmont where commercial stores are meager.

Overall Woodminster is a great neighborhood for affluent families that happens to have a college at its heart.
Pros
  • Great Views
  • Great Homes
  • Great Schools
Cons
  • A Bit Snobby
  • Hillside Living--Erosion etc.
  • Very Expensive
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5
Nov 29, 2010

"A Great Urban Park!"

Joaquin Miller Park, named after the local poet and stretching out to the east of the Warren Freeway just to the south of Piedmont Pines, is a magnificent urban park. Its trails sprawl out over the hillside offering great views of the bay and a good dose of wildlife as well. Though local teens often use it for their impromptu nature parties at night time it is still well worth the visit. In the early morning, its jogging trails get quite a bit of use, and after a good rainfall the cascades drench the park in watery beauty. Lizards scramble across trails, deer stop to stare, and hawks float above. Just go and listen to the wind bending the trees, or watch the foggy curling in for the night.

Unfortunately, as with any urban park, garbage is a bit of a problem and you will find some spots where beer bottles and other signs of urban detritus have been left behind.

At the eastern edge of the park is the Chabot Science center with its exhibitions, planetarium, giant telescope and great science films. In the summer, Chabot is a great place to take that little scientist in the household to help support her fascinations or to try to spark some scientific interests in those little guys and gals who have not yet caught the science bug.
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Nov 29, 2010
Editors Choice

"Oakland's Millionaires' Hill"

Piedmont Pines is the section of Piedmont, California that climbs up the Oakland hills to the east of the Warren Freeway. It is a highly affluent family neighborhood with million dollar homes where well-heeled professionals reside. People touted Piedmont as the “City of Millionaires,” and to this day it remains a Mecca for the well-off, having former Bay Area football stars like Bubba Paris and Bill Romanowski as residents.

Piedmont Pines itself is beautiful and bucolic, having no shopping district. It is all woody pines and redwoods with cabin style homes nestled along long lanes and narrow cul-de-sacs that trickle out from them. Lots of Redwood Craftsman’s homes with pendulous decks stair out over the Bay from between the branches. Other homes adopt the Mission Revival style with clay tile roofs and adobe walls, but adding round towers and a style more suited to the hills. In the winter time, the faint smell of pine and smoke hang in the air making the whole neighborhood feel like a vacation ski resort, even though it is only minutes from Downtown Oakland and the rest of the Bay Area.

This is a family neighborhood where one in five are below the age of 18. Joaquin Miller Elementary is the K-5 in the neighborhood and it, like the rest of the schools in Piedmont, is well regarded by parents and educators. With the Chabot Science Center (a great science museum with science films, exhibitions and telescopes trained at the skies) just to the south and so many woodsy hiking trails this is the perfect location for wealthy families who love the outdoors to put down stakes.
Pros
  • Woody Ski-Resort Type Living
  • Great Schools
  • Beautiful Post WWII Era Homes
Cons
  • Very Expensive
  • A Bit Secluded
  • Hillside Living--Erosion etc.
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Nov 27, 2010

"For Wannabe Lumberjacks"

Located on a long narrow stretch of land inbetween woodsy Montclair and leafy Piedmont, the Shepherd Canyon Neighborhood straddles Shepherd Canyon Road all the way up to undeveloped woody area south of Robert Sibley Park (Eastport). The neighborhood itself is dominated by two parks near its center—Shepherd Canyon Park is the larger of the two and runs along a trail where 19th Century railroad tracks once lay. The Park offers nice hiking, and the community is actively improving the park with benches and signage. The other park at the very bottom, Marge Saunders Park, is just north of Joaquin Miller Elementary, one of the many fine elementaries in the area.

Down by the Warren Freeway, there is a small overspill of Montclair Village that includes a good Italian restaurant.

For the most part, however the neighborhood is made up of beautiful woodsy homes hidden away off the curves of Shepperd Canyon Road. The homes are largely 50’s style Prairie Style homes stacked two and sometimes three stories high along depressions that possibly were once used by 19th century loggers to extract the region’s redwoods. (Oakland’s woods and quarries were the source of much of the raw materials used to rebuild San Francisco after the Great Quake.) The neighborhood has a certain ski resort kind of feel to it, reminiscent to me of inclined lanes surrounding Big Bear in So Cal. There is, of course, no skiing with in an hour of here.

If you still harbor a childhood fantasy of being a lumberjack, then you have found your home. All you need is an axe and the six figure job to afford living here.
Pros
  • Woody
  • Nice Homes
  • Great Hiking
Cons
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Narrow Lanes
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Nov 27, 2010

"A Perfect Litte Commercial Village"

Monclair Village is the small commercial district of Montclair that stretches along Highway 13. Packed on evenings as Montclarions get off work and on Saturday and Sunday mornings when the local families descend on the Village for brunches and relaxation, Montclair’s “business district” serves all the basic needs of locals except maybe those of entertainment (there is not a Montclair movie theater). You can do everything from get a haircut to mail a letter here.

Despite its tiny size—it is barely four blocks long and two wide—Montclair Village has quite an offering as far a culinary desires. Two supermarkets bookend the neighborhood on north and south—Lucky’s and Safeway; their proximity makes it necessary to stay ever aware of their knowing clienteles discerning tastes and whims. A well stocked spirits store and an A.G. Ferrar—with it daily fresh French loaves—make preparing for visits and parties a simple task. For those who would rather go out or get take-out rather than prepare their own meals, they will find everything from pizza to sushi in town. Crogans--part-Irish pub, part restaurant-- is a favorite nightspot for married couples to entertain relatives and friends. (You can also get Indian, Italian, and Mexican in town.)

The affluent stay-at-home moms and dads will also find a smattering of clothing boutiques and gift shops, making it easy to stay local and still find the perfect new outfit or birthday present. Shutterbugs will find a rarity these days—an actual mom-and-pop type camera store, while active types can get their athletic needs and desires fulfilled at the sporting goods or bicycle shop.

The city planners smartly placed Montclair Elementary at the northern end of town right by the park where kids just off school can play for bit or take a stroll around the lake before moms tow them into town to snag a few groceries or run a couple of errands.

It’s a bit too open-laned and busy to really seem quaint—though that is definitely the intended aesthetic, but Montclair Village is perfectly suited to local needs and desires. A nice little suburban one-stop commercial district.
Pros
  • Quiant Shopping Area
  • Nice School
  • Small Town Feel
Cons
  • Expensive
  • Crowded
  • Parking
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 5/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 5/5
Nov 27, 2010

"Redwoods, Pines and Homes"

To say that Montclair is leafy is like saying that the beach is sandy, or that basketball players are tallish. Montclair, one of those neighborhoods tucked away in the Oakland hills just north of Piedmont, is like a forest with Craftsman style homes sprinkled in. Shaped like barbells on either side of Highway 13, just south of 24, Montclair’s roads snake around the hills, hiding little clutches of spacious homes in little valleys and hilltops overlooking tiny lakes and reservoirs. Residents feel as if they are miles from civilization in the woody retreats of Tahoe or Marin but f they want to be in the city, all they need to do is hop on Highway 13 and they can be in Downtown Berkeley for a play at the Berkeley Rep in 15 minutes, or in San Francisco in a half hour (give or take ten minutes for traffic).

Home prices here are steep, of course, with the with the bedecked hovels high in the hills rising with their seclusion. Lawyers, executive managers, and high-power sales people live up among the pines and redwoods--the average salary at the upper elevations being in the six figure range. College professors, middle managers and other professional types can find more affordable rents closer to Montclair’s “downtown” business district, where rents drop, along with the feeling of seclusion, closer to $2,000 range—about twice the average rent for most Oakland neighborhoods.

This is a definitely a family neighborhood. Montclair Elementary is a great school—receiving a 10 out of 10 on the Great Schools Website, as does nearby Thornhill to the north. There are also several private choices for pickier parents or those who want a more religious perspective in their children’s educations.

Now, if you don’t like trees and would rather be right in the middle of things at all times, this is not the place for you. There are no dive bars in downtown Montclair, and you are much more likely to run into stay-at-home moms with double strollers for their twins than skinny jeaned co-eds (unless it’s the holidays and college students are back to visit their parents). If, however, you love to watch the early fog get strung up in tops of mossy redwoods or to smell the woody smoke from neighbors’ fire places while taking a late evening stroll, then you will love the Montclair neighborhood
Pros
  • Woody
  • Great Homes
  • Beautiful Views
Cons
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Expensive
  • Narrow Roads
Recommended for
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 4/5
Nov 25, 2010
Editors Choice

"Trapped Circa 1939"

Longfellow is a working class neighborhood stretching to the northwest of the junction between Highway 25 and 580. This is a neighborhood frozen in time since WWII. Less than one in ten of the homes here were built in my lifetime. That means that you can get a real sense of what this area of the Bay looked like at the mid point in the previous century. The majority of homes in this neighborhood are walk-ups with bay windows. Some of them are Victorians—though not really of the same style as those in most neighborhoods across the Bay as far as I can tell.

Many of the homes are really unusual in terms of architecture. I am really not sure what these types of homes are called. For example, some of them have a pointy front roofed façade at a sharp angle and then give way to a more gently sloping roof behind that. Many of the homes are also brightly painted in greens or blues. They are mostly built on tiny lots of the kind popular during and before the War; and many have unkept front lawns or thick bushes that curtain passersby from seeing to the front door.

Six thousand plus people live here. There have been four murders so far this year, three shootings and one stabbing. (There have been 124 murders in Oakland to this point this year.) The four victims were young persons of color, two young men and two young women. A sad state of affairs. Other kinds of crime are also high in this neighborhood, especially at its southern edge.

In many ways, the neighborhood suffers from urban blight. You can see the signs of this as you pass by on the freeway. The homes closest to the freeway tend to have boarded up windows and missing roofing. The southwest corner of the neighborhood seems definitely to have the worst of it. The housing is particularly ramshackle in this section.

That said, there are a few signs of hope that go beyond the liquor stores and the tattered asphalt of the streets. Back when our new governor, Mr. Brown was mayor of Oakland, he helped to inaugurate the Oakland Military Institute. The idea behind the school is to take middle schoolers from the Oakland area and insert them into a rigorous military school style education program that will teach them discipline and leadership skills that will help them to better themselves, their families and their neighborhoods. The charter program did come under some criticism as most such programs do, but when Brown finished his tenure as mayor it was touted as one of his successes.

Despite these more sobering facts about living in Longfellow, the neighborhood also has at least one compelling draw on the watering hole front. Café Biere is one odd little place that outsiders love to visit—it offers a French Bistro style beer hall where the beer slinging wait staff wear low cut French village pub type attire while serving California cuisine and German draft beers in tall glasses. Quite the sloshy experience.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
  • Cool Pub
  • Close to Freeway
Cons
  • Ugly, Flat Streets
  • Dangerous
  • Rundown Homes
Recommended for
  • Hipsters
  • Helpful
  • Comments (4)
  • Follow
juliobrz
juliobrz This review is outdated. Information no longer reflects the nature of this neighborhood.
5 days ago
AJ
AJ hi juliobrz - what has changed in the neighborhood to make you say that?
4 days ago
juliobrz
juliobrz Many modern buildings have been built recently and more is under construction at the moment. The new Macarthur Station BART Village and the new Kaiser Hospital are also adding to the attractiveness of the area. There's an influx of young professionals and diverse families into the neighborhood, as many older residents are now moving to assisted living in the suburbs, like Orinda, where the elderly like to retire. Trees are being planted everywhere and there's a well-organized community effort to green the whole area. It's happening on a daily basis. Pixar and Emeryville is just a hop away. Houses are being renovated and more and more homes show pride of ownership. No, it's not your cookie-cutter blah suburb. It's lively and urban--so you have to have a certain appreciation for city life and everything this neighborhood has to offer. It is truly in the heart of the Bay Area.
4 days ago
NightOwlnOrinda
NightOwlnOrinda I sort see what you mean. There are some newer buildings along Adaline (sp?) and Yerba Buena and I can see the attraction if you are fresh out of college of living near Emeryville and that area. My review is a couple of years old and I may simply not have noticed many changes going on back then.

I would probably have been one those types attracted to this area back when I got out of Berkeley--I must have gotten soft in my middle age. A bit too much crime and urban hassles for my taste now.

Orinda, btw, does have an old folks home but I would say the average resident is roughly middle aged and raising families. Point taken though, Julio; I will keep an eye out for Longfellow. Apologies if I was overly harsh in my assessment.
3 days ago
Add a comment...
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 4/5
Nov 19, 2010

"No Baystreet in the Bay Street Neigbhorhood"

Ironically, the Bay Street area in Emeryville does not actually include Bay Street which is one block east of Shellmound the technical border of the Bay Street area. In fact, it also does not include the Bay Street Mall that is on the other side of Shellmound as well. What is it does include is the Powell Shopping Center, a 1970’s style strip mall with lots of older kinds of stores, fast food joints and places like Starbucks and Trader Joes. In other words, it is an utterly uninteresting and unrewarding shopping experience.

There are no residences and it is not particularly attractive. So it is sort of like the homely middle brother whose older brother is the star quarterback and whose younger brother is the brain. It would be okay if it were by itself, but with such great neighbors it really stands very little chance of getting noticed.
Pros
  • Close to Everything
  • Nice Shops
Cons
  • Traffic
  • Bland Stores
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Nov 19, 2010

"L-Shaped Neighborhood"

The Triangle is a section of Emeryville that wraps around the southeast corner of the Emeryville Civic Center. On its northern end where it meets the Gaskill neighborhood at 53rd Street, the Triangle is a residential neighborhood that varies little from its northern neighbor. The homes here are all pretty old and many of them look a little bit run down. Rents are fairly inexpensive here, with a two-bedroom going for about $1,100 and with some steals on the order of $700 for a studio.

This is definitely an area that focuses on families. There is a park at this northern end, Temescal Creek Park which is small but has both basketball courts and a play area for young children. Anna Yates Elementary is down on 41st street and Emery Middle School is to the west. Anna Yates is generally well-regarded by local parents but doesn’t fair so well on objective standards.

On its southern end the neighborhood is a commercial draw filled with box store outlets like Pic-N-Save, Petsmart, Office Depot and a Babies-R-Us. This is another big draw for people who come here to check out Ikea.

In addition, along 40th Street you will find a row of those new boxy condominiums with the mix of tan colors. These are the kinds of highly fortified apartments that gentrification has rushed into Oakland.

Overall, this is a good place to go shopping but I’m not so sure I would like to live here.
Pros
  • Good Box Stores
  • Affordable Rents
  • Close to Emeryville Commercial Area
Cons
  • Crime
  • Ugly and Flat
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 4/5
Nov 18, 2010
Editors Choice

"Pixar, Poker, Puppets and Pilates"

This is the home of Pixar Studios—that you probably know for their animated films: Toy Story, Wall-E, Bug’s Life and Up. It is definitely the most famous company in Emeryville and one of the most famous of the Bay Area. Many people may be surprised actually to find out that this company is in Northern California and not by Hollywood. But the Bay Area does have a tradition for mixing high-tech and film making—you need only think of George Lucas and Skywalker Ranch on the other side of the Bay.

This is, however, only one part of the bustling commercial neighborhood. It is an area jam-packed with stores and restaurants. If you are into unusual Fifties Diners, I recommend Rudy’s Can’t Fail Café—very good for burgers and fries and for unusual décor. If you like a good gourmet pizza, try Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria on San Pablo—its just outstanding stuff.

As far as night spots go, one of the more unusual places is the Oaks Card Club where you can go to have some card sharks take you for all you’re worth. (Actually, there are limits on how much you can bet because of a city ordinance—but they’ll take you up to that limit.) The Oaks Club is actually a real throw back to the early 20th Century when Emeryville, believe it or not—was called by the then governor and future Supreme Court Justice Earl Warren the “dirtiest city in California” and he didn’t mean because of the slaughterhouses that used to inhabit Gaskill. The security guards keep things kosher here, so no need to worry about things getting out of hand.

There are also a handful of gyms in this neighborhood—Alameda Athletic Club, East Bay Badminton Association and East Bay Pilates.

One of the more idiosyncratic stores in the neighborhood is Folkmanis Inc., a toy store featuring hand-crafted puppets.

And if you are looking for someone to cater your wedding and you got the dough, try Paula Leduc—she has her store in the neighborhood as well.

Oh yeah, and the Emeryville city offices are here too—but with so many creative distractions you are unlikely to even notice them as you fork over your taxable legal tender—just the way they like it.
Pros
  • Strong Business Center
  • Good Work Out Areas
  • Lots to Do
Cons
  • Busy
  • On the Ugly Side
  • Some Crime
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful (1)
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 4/5
Nov 18, 2010

"Ikea and the Burial Ground"

This is one of my wife’s favorite spots to spend a weekend day or to meet someone before or after going into the city. It is not that the shops here are particularly amazing. With the exception of Ikea, we have most of these places on this side of the hill. The main difference is that they are all conveniently located within walking distance of each other. Of course, the other thing is that they are perfectly located, not just because it is the last stop before you hit the Bay Bridge and head into the craziness of the city, but also, because the bay is so close by that it produces a cool breeze.

I know Ikea gets a bad wrap, but my wife likes that cheap Norwegian furniture. I can’t tell you how many of those things I’ve put together for the house. In addition, there is a great Barnes and Noble, one of my personal favorites. Back in the life before kids, I used to slip into one of those comfy seats and enjoy leafing through a magazine or trying out the first few pages of a novel. There are also several outlet stores around, and the new, stylish furniture really gives the area a very upscale suburban feel.

The other thing that is great about the area is the restaurants—again mostly things that we have in Walnut Creek, but located more closely together. There is an Elephant Bar, a PF Chang’s and a California Pizza Kitchen, for example.

The other great thing is that this is such a diverse area with people of all races and colors. It makes for much more interesting people watching than the Wonder Bread suburbs.

This is not just a giant shopping area. Several companies make there headquarters in Industrial Emeryville. Novartis, for example, the pharmaceutical company is one of several in the healthcare field that have their North America headquarters here. Ihi Environmental (a green consulting firm) and Alibris (a sort of Amazon type online bookseller) are a couple of other companies that also base themselves out of Emeryville. Again, it is the location that makes this so attractive to corporations--not only because they are so close to the city (without being in its high rent areas), but also because Emeryville is famous for how much office space it has available and because the workers have a lot of choices in terms of places to lunch—yet another good recruiting point for these companies.

There are only a few residential streets in this neighborhood and they are mostly taken up by a gated condominium project on the east. This is right by Emery Middle School, attended by locals mostly outside of this neighborhood.

What you probably don’t know about this location is that it used to be a Native American burial ground. In fact, the developers had to carefully remove the remains of the Costonians who lived here before they set down the foundations for the new shopping area. Some of the bones however, were kept in place. So next time you are at the mall keep that in mind.
Pros
  • Ikea
  • Great Outdoor Mall
  • Good Restaurants
Cons
  • Crowded
  • Traffic
  • Noisy
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Beach Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 1/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 4/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 2/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
Nov 18, 2010

"Views of the Bay and the Marina"

Way out in the middle of the bay on the stretch of land that makes up Marina Park, you have a wonderfully lush green space where you can play with kids for fly kites. The sailboats floating on the water make for an enjoyable backdrop for playing with the kids or have a picnic—although it is a bit breezy and chilly at times.

On the stretch of land that connect this park to land, you will find some very nice apartment buildings with great views of the bay. There is also a big 20+ story hotel here is great for those who have business both in San Francisco and in the east by since the area is right by the Bay Bridge. In addition, there is a Chevy’s restaurant that looks out over the greenish lapping waters on the pebble strewn beach. Another great meeting placing for those going into the city.

Another great restaurant is the Hong Kong Villa whose location out by the park simply can’t be beat.
Pros
  • Nice Yachts
  • Good Green Space
  • Good Restaurants
Cons
  • Chilly
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Beach Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 5/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 2/5
  • Pest Free 5/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 4/5
Nov 14, 2010

"The International Food Court and Condos with a View"

Emerybay is perhaps my favorite place to visit in Emeryville. Emeryville is mostly more about the restaurants, stores, and hotels than it is about apartments and homes. In fact, I don’t think there is a single-family house in this neighborhood—though there are condos and one very prominent high rise apartment. Most of the multiple story condos and certainly the high rise has great views of the SF Bay all the way to Alcatraz and SF. Many of the condos here are of that new fangled variety—painted orange and tan and with heavily reinforced doors and no first floor windows to give one a sense of being safely tucked away--no doubt a response to the high per capita robbery rate for Emeryville.

One should not be mislead, however. Though Emeryville’s population is only about 7,000 (according to the 2000 census), the high crime rate is distorted because of the high number of visitors to Emeryville everyday. Thousands of people must come into the area to visit the Ikea to the south or to come to the food court or to catch a movie. When you factor these larger numbers in, you see that the thefts and break-ins are actually probably much lower than in some of the nearby Oakland neighborhoods.

That said, this neighborhood has a lot to offer. First, the longtime center of activity is the Emeryville Café and International Food Court. Long before Ikea and new shopping mall south of Powell came, the food court would bring in people from all over the East Bay to meet and choose from foods from Afghan cuisine to Mexican. A true international food court, the area is also reasonably priced and perfectly located right by the Bay Bridge—making it perfect as a lunch stop before heading into the city. In addition, the Borders Books and the nearby ten screen movie theater give customers lots to do and see while here. There is also an excellent pool hall in the building—a great date spot on weekend nights.

Much of the location, however, is devoted to business. I have heard that Emeryville has a higher percentage of per capita office space than any other city in California. I don’t know if this is still true, but given the number of offices and businesses in the area, it is not altogether surprising. Nady Systems, a wireless technology company, and Mitel Corporation, a communications consultation company, and Wham-O toy company, famous for their Frisbees, for example have their offices here.

The neigbhorhood also has a private college, Ex’pression College of Digital Arts is located on the northern end of the neighborhood. The college trains people in animation related skills—no doubt catering to those hoping to find jobs with Emeryville’s most famous company, Pixar (located in the neighborhood just to the south). For those who prefer to educate themselves in salsa, there is the Allegro Ballroom, offering inexpensive classes to people of all ability levels.

Finally, there is also the Denny’s on Powell, a popular spot late when everything else is closed. Many a college night I ended up there with friends. The food and service is nothing to write home about, but a clean, well-lighted place at 3 am is a great blessing.
Pros
  • Great Food Court
  • Good Theater and Bookstore
  • Close to Bay Bridge
Cons
  • Crowds
  • Some Crime
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
3/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 3/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 5/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 3/5
  • Schools 3/5
Nov 13, 2010

"Gentrified on the North, Overpriced on the South"

Gentrification is in full swing at the far northern end of this long strip of a residential neighborhood. On those northern blocks you will find a series of adobe shaded square condominiums—part fortress, part modernist cubes. They seem strangely out of place here, but they seem to be the wave of the future by the sheer number of them I’ve seen around in the last few years. With Ikea and a brand new outdoor shopping mall in nearby Emeryville, you can see what kind of an area developers are trying to build.

On the southern end of the neighborhood, the majority of homes are old and a bit worn down. Many of the homes here, however, are starting to feel the pull of gentrification—prices are beginning to rise. The average home here of two bedroom costs about $2 K.

Though burglaries and occasional assaults are fairly common here, there have been no murders in more than three years.

Up on the northern end you can also find a nice coffee shop and an Italian Social Club that I don’t know much about.

Overall, I can’t quite recommend this neighborhood.
Pros
  • Close to Emeryville Shopping
  • Close to Freeway
Cons
  • Crime
  • Gentrification
  • Worn-Out Feel
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 1/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 1/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 5/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Nov 12, 2010

"Unsafe Feeling"

In college, I came to check out a room for rent in this tiny neighborhood. I am somewhat ashamed to admit that I never actually got out of my car to check it out. I just did not feel safe in this neighborhood. It has a very run down look to it and the fenced in yards, barred windows and strangely curtained windows just make one feel a bit uncomfortable. It just feels like a high-crime neighborhood. I am sure that this does not reveal good things about by middle-class prejudices.

Looking at the objective data of crime statistics for the area I see that I am half right and half wrong. There have not been any recent murders in this tiny nook of a neighborhood, but assaults and burglaries are apparently a daily occurrence. So, even though I find the architecture in this area really interesting—it is not unlike many of the Berkeley neighborhoods that I love—I simply can’t recommend it.

That said, I am sure there are some brave, good hearted souls who will take advantage of the very attractive rents and have no real hassles. It is a bit too urban for my tastes however.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
  • Close to Commercial Emeryville
  • Close to Public Transportation
Cons
  • Crime
  • Rundown Houses
  • Dirty Streets
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 5/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 3/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 2/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 5/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Nov 12, 2010

"Former Home of Your Muslim Bakery"

Paradise Park is a bit of a run down neighborhood with old World War II era homes with tiny front yards. Rents in the area are very reasonable with your average two bedroom going for about $1200. Even three bedroom homes tend to stay below $2000. Of course, most of the homes are from the World War II era, but some have been somewhat renovated.

You cannot mention Paradise Park, however, without mentioning Your Muslim Bakery that once resided at its southwestern corner. The bakery attracted the heat for more than its pastries, being implicated in the murder of reporter Chauncey Bailey and several past shady dealings. Many community leaders supported the bakery’s beneficial roles for the community, but the record has been a mixed bag at best. Now you will only find a boarded up building where the bakery once stood.

Check out this SFGate article if you are interested in learning more:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/10/09/MNF2SLVBJ.DTL

Although there is an assault or burglary reported in Paradise Park virtually every day, there has not been a homicide in the neighborhood in over three years.

Paradise Park is also home to a fair number of local eateries. Eastern City Café on San Pablo, for example, is an eclectic mix of Soul and Chinese food which is a little bit hit or miss. Café Tribu farther up San Pablo is a good coffee shop to hang out and have a pastry.

There are also a number of churches and schools in the area. Some of the schools are Golden Gate Elementary and the East Bay Conservation Corps Charter School
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
Cons
  • Ugly, Flat Streets
  • Crime
  • Old Homes
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 2/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 5/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 2/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Nov 12, 2010

"Run-Down and Old"

Santa Fe is an older neighborhood just to the west of Bushrod. In many ways this neighborhood is the mirror image of its eastern neighbors. Three quarters of the homes here date to the 40’s and before and unlike in many other neighborhoods they show signs of age. In addition, no new homes have been built in this area in more than two decades. Although some of some of the residents of South Berkeley have spilled into the neighborhood on the north and the recently hot Temescal neighborhood has spilled over on the south. This has raised rents to $1,000 on average.

This, however, is misleading since so many of the homes in the area have multiple bedrooms.

On the eastern edge is Martin Luther King Bvld. , with Children’s Hospital just across the way. The BART is on an elevated track on the center meridian and there are bus lines here as well. MLK is mostly made up of gas stations, liquor stores and a hair salon or two at this point. There is also a market there for local residents.

The most attractive street in the neighborhood is Adeline which horizontally divides the neighborhood. It has the newest homes and a smattering of liquor stores and restaurants.

There are some gang problems in the area. In 2009 there were two murders along MLK Way and in 2007 three murders happened all during the late summer that seems to be the most dangerous period.

Overall, not the most popular of neighborhoods.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
Cons
  • Ugly, Flat Streets
  • Rundown Look
  • Crime
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
2/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 4/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 5/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 2/5
Nov 06, 2010

"Home of Oakland Children's Hospital"

Bushrod is a modest neighborhood that stretches out north of Highway 24, west of Telegraph Ave. to Martin Luther King Jr. Way. The homes here are, as throughout this area of the East Bay, older with a tendency towards one story houses with front walk-ups with bay bay windows facing out street side. The homes in the neighborhood definitely have a quaint, World War II row houses type feel with tiny front lawns in various states of upkeep. Older residents and retiree make the neighborhood feel as if it has been this way as long as memory stretches and they tend to keep their front lawns in good repair. Overall, however, the neighborhood is a little uneven, with many homes being poorly kept while others have well mowed and watered lawns.

Despite its distance from the Berkeley Campus, you still get a strong student market here as students try to get a deal on their rents. This means that many homes are parceled out to renters room by room and that there tends to be a high turnover rate roughly following the Cal school schedule.

Oakland Children’s Hospital, one of the best medical facilities in California is the farthest southern tip of the neighborhood, where MLK meets Highway 24. It sprawls north taking up several blocks. Oakland City College is also along MLK Jr.

Bushrod is definitely not the safest neighborhood in the area north of Highway 24. Since 2007 there have been four murders there—two by gunshot in what appear to be gang related shootings, and two murders during a high speed chase where fleeing gang members crashed killing a pedestrian and a motorist on MLK Jr. Way.

The three main avenues through the are MLK, Shattuck and Telegraph. Telegraph is by far the most practical of the three with several stores and restaurants, like Addis—one of two Ethiopian restaurants. The neighborhood is largely African-American and many of the establishments—like the hair salons—cater specifically to that demographic, though the mix of rotating college students mean that most places are well-adapted to making all audiences feel comfortable and welcome.

The neighborhood is named after Bushrod Park, which has a great set of tennis courts, soccer fields and basketball courts. Ultimate Frisbee contests are held there on the weekends. Bushrod Park is also adjacent to Washington Elementary (also known as Sankofa Academy). The concept school was meant to inspire responsibility in its students by mixing younger and older students. Parents have been disappointed in the results, however, as the experiment has lead to many instances of behavior problems and more than its share of bullying.

Overall, however, this is a bit of a hit or miss neighborhood that does not fair well in comparison to its neighboring areas.
Pros
  • Oakland Childrens Hospital
  • Affordable Rents
Cons
  • Crime
  • Rundown Homes
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 5/5
Nov 06, 2010

"Great Architecture and Ethiopian Food"

Fairview Park is just south of the Elmwood neighborhood in Berkeley. It extends from Woolsey Street to Highway 24 with Telegraph as its western border and College Ave. and Claremont as its eastern border. Like much of the Berkeley/Oakland area it is made up of older homes and buildings. If you like older homes as I do, you will love these streets. Along them you find a Mission Revival apartment buildings (a touch on the rare side unlike the single story homes that are plentiful), next to Tudor Cottages with pointy roves and gables, decorated in shingles, next to a squat Craftsman houses with characteristic thick square columns and front steps that rise onto a short thin verandas with a protective overhangs. The variety is really fascinating, actually.

Rental prices in the area are very reasonable with few listings popping over $1000 and when they do go into the higher ranges, these are for entire houses. On the other hand, this is still close enough to the Berkeley campus that Victorians get parceled out and many households are made up of strangers and therefore unstable. Turnover is high and tends to follow the UC calendar.

Unlike the neighborhoods closer to campus, however, this feels like a truly functioning residential neighborhood with actual families living here and not just a bunch of college students. There is, for example, an actual supermarket (Safeway on the corner of College and Claremont) and not just a corner liquor store. There are also hardware stores, an antique store and an elementary school—Peralta Elementary. Peralta, by the way, is well-loved by local parents who are very involved in it and like the quality of the teachers and administration.

The neighborhood also has a lot to offer in terms of commercial establishments. For example, although Telegraph is not the prettiest of streets at this point, and has its share of run down looking KFC’s and liquor stores, it also has an acupuncture place, a tattoo parlor and a nice hair salon—Down at Lulu’s—that can handle anything from a simple bob, to a weave, to getting just the right shade of purple. It is definitely the kind of place that has seen it all. There are some slightly sketchier elements in the area in terms of stores including a palm reader, a strangely non-descript tavern/hotel and an adult movie store but there are also some eclectic clothing boutiques like Says Who.

In terms of crime, there have been no homicides within the Fairview boundaries since 2007, although next door Bushrod (on the western end) has had a handful. Crime in the area is mostly of the property variety.

Public transportation is strong here as in other Bay Area neighborhoods. Not only does Highway 24 run along the southern border, but Fairview Park has the Rockridge BART station right near its south eastern border. In other words, you could easily live here without ever owning a car.

That said, the choice of restaurants makes it worth braving the less savory aspects of Telegraph. You can find sushi (Naked Sushi), East Asian BBQ (Chicken Town) and Thai food (Saysetha). By far, however, the highlight of Telegraph are the two Ethiopian restaurants: Café Colucci and Addis (right around the corner at Alcatraz), both well worth a visit.

College Avenue on the eastern end, however, is the far more aesthetically pleasing lane, featuring not only the supermarket but perhaps the most attractive stretch of shopping and restaurants in the Berkeley area. This is the stretch of College that becomes Rockridge once it crosses under the freeway and the BART station, so that often establishments will list themselves as in Rockridge in order to cash in on that city’s cache. Technically, however, these establishments are in Fairview Park. You will find a Zachary’s Pizza, a Barney’s Burgers, and Wood Tavern (a nice drinking establishment). The Claremont Diner, the Graduate and Boe’s Café are also on this lane, along with several stores. Put simply, you could, if you were forced to stay within a mile of College and Claremont, squeeze quite a bit of enjoyment out of this area.

One final note is that there are also several places of worship in the area including St. Augustine’s, the local catholic establishment. And, in case you are wondering, there is a park in Fairview Park, but it is actually named Colby Park. It’s not really much to write home about except for its odd traffic circle like configuration.

Overall, this is a pretty good place to set down roots and raise kids.
Pros
  • Ethnic Restaurants
  • Working Family Neigbhorhood
  • Good Public Transportation
Cons
  • Old Architecture Problems
  • Nearby Crime
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Nov 04, 2010

"Nice Well Situated Hilly Neighborhood "

Glen Highlands straddles the eastern edge of the Warren Freeway (Highway 13) just south of Highway 24. It is, for the most part, a hilly residential area with a mix of older and newer homes of various architectural styles. Much like its Berkeley neighbor Claremont, just north of Highway 24, Glen Highlands has a mix of pointy roofed Tudors and red tiled, adobe walled Mission Revival homes. Many seem to have been here for quite a while though parts of the neighborhood must have been affected by the Oakland firestorm. Another positive of this neighborhood is that although some prices are typically high for such hillside living, there are definitely some deals to be had under $1000. I am not sure why this is the case—perhaps this is a rent controlled area?

It is the kind of neighborhood with deer crossing signs—its proximity to forested areas and parks making it an area where wildlife is common. If you are a fan of living in a woody area, this is certainly the place to go but you should be aware that with the topography come certain challenges, including garden plants being eaten by forest creatures, lots of leaves to be dealt with, and rain run off.

That said, Glen Highlands is perfectly situated for commuters, offering easy freeway access to SF or into Contra Costa County. Furthermore, although the neighborhood itself doesn’t have any restaurants, its neighbor is Rockridge, making it easy for residents to slip down on a Sunday morning to enjoy that city’s great restaurants and laid back feel. In addition, if you are more of a hiker and biker, the Highlands also borders Tilden and other recreation areas. Thus, it has a lot to offer.

In terms of crime, the neighborhood is very safe as far as Oakland goes. There have been no murders in the area in recent memory. In the last two months from the time of this writing there have been 11 burglaries and one auto theft reported.
Pros
  • Woody, Hillside Neighborhood
  • Nice Homes
  • Great Freeway Access
Cons
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Expensive
  • Lots of Wildlife Pests
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 1/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 2/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 3/5
Oct 29, 2010

"Watching Over Oakland"

High up the hills east of Merriwood and Montclair, is Forestland, the neighborhood that hugs Grizzly Peak Blvd. and stares down on the East Bay from a-high. The 1991 Oakland Firestorm destroyed much of this area as it did the neighborhoods to the north, but, as always, disaster is also an opportunity for rebuilding. The roads just off Grizzly Peak Road reflect this opportunity. Many large homes with unusual contemporary architecture have risen up at the summits of Forestland. They are nice beautiful homes and have great views, but the snaking road that pass their garage decks are very tight. In addition, the chances of fire in the area are always strong so that is definitely something to consider when deciding on the area.

One of the great things of living in Forestland, however, is that you are always close to nature. Often, in fact, your home will face out towards an area that is wholly undeveloped, where there are wind blown trees cresting the mountain range’s top and boulders cropping up here and there. For those that are outdoorsy types, they will love the many opportunities to take hikes in the area. One such place is the Robert Sibley Volcanic Nature Preserve just to the east. Residents can take to this to trail to get their exercise and look at the unusual rock formations that exist here.

A handful of businesses also make their homes up in this area, though some of them are work from home type deals. In many places construction is underway, so parts of the neighborhood always look like they are not yet complete. With construction you will also get a certain amount of noise. One business that is worth noting is Hill Swim and Tennis Club in the far southeastern corner of the neighborhood.

Anyone planning to live in this area, however, should be aware that with hillside living like this, comes extra work and extra worries. Rock slides, mud slides, flooding and erosion are particular concerns for residents as hillside homes are much more prone to shifting than home on flatter spots. Fire is also a concern of any one living in the Oakland Hills as well, as such types of fire tend to have a cyclical component. Wildlife can also add to the hassles. Living up in this area you should expect a certain amount of deer and rodents, and even the more than occasional visits from raccoons and skunks—especially to make a mess of trash day. In addition, be aware that this will add quite a bit of wear and tear to your automobile, as constantly forcing it to go up and down grades wears on the machinery as well. Not to mention that every time you need to go to the store, you will not only spend extra time getting there and be taking up extra gas as well That said the relative seclusion and great views make for a wonderful spot if you can hand the hassles.

Rents vary a great deal, getting progressively higher as you head farther south where many of the larger rental homes are. So, in the northern section it is possible to find a studio for less than $1,000 while farther south you are likely to need more than $3,000 for a three bedroom.
Pros
  • Woody, Hillside Neighborhood
  • Great Views
  • Hiking Nearby
Cons
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Narrow, Windy Roads
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 2/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 1/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 2/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 1/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 5/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 3/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 5/5
  • Schools 3/5
Oct 29, 2010

"Oakland Side of the 1991 Firestorm"

Merriwood is the neighborhood just south of the Caldecott Tunnel that was largely destroyed in the 1991 Oakland Hills Firestorm. Now the area is largely of wooded space though homes have returned. Skirting Highway 24 from the tunnel is the North Oakland Regional Sports Center, a part of the northern area of Merriwood is basically a park with a soccer and baseball field. Much of the rest of this area, however, remains undeveloped in this northern section. You will also find some excellent hiking trails heading up through this area, many of them excellent for children and pets.

The homes here are all fairly nice, all stacked on the side of hills with great views of the City and the North Bay. The streets are little more than firebreaks for this fire prone area and they curve around mercilessly through the hills. Grizzly Peak is the eastern border of the neighborhood, while Snake Rd. is the southern section where most of the homes are at this point. Many of the homes have parking decks by the road and stairs that lead visitors down into the houses—a very functional set-up here.

Up in the hills you will also find some interesting spots like the Monclair Private Pool, where you get a membership to use the facilities. Overall it is a very nice place to live. If you’re curious what the rent would cost, its actually a complicated questions as prices vary greatly. You can sometimes find a studio for less than a thousand, but there are also three bedroom homes for $4K+. Which means there are deals to be had if you are willing to compromise a bit. Most residents, of course, are owners.
Pros
  • Freeway Access
  • Woody
  • Nice Views
Cons
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Expensive
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 3/5
  • Eating Out 5/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 2/5
  • Medical Facilities 5/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 5/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 3/5
  • Public Transport 5/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 5/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 5/5
Oct 25, 2010

"My Favorite City"

Home to the oldest of the UC’s, Berkeley California has, for at least half a century, had a reputation as a school for left wing radicals and nuts. Many a Conservative has helped to sharpen his or her sense of identity by contrasting it with the radical politics associated with Berkeley especially in the Sixties when Reagan swept into office to “clean up the mess in Berkeley”. He was referring to Free Speech Movement and would eventually order in the National Guard to tear gas the People’s Park protestors.

These days, however, Berkeley is only a shadow of its former radical self. Berkeley now is largely concerned with upholding middle class values and even though some radicals still find their way into university’s walls, things have largely changed from the days of the sit-ins and Mario Salvio. This is not to say that it’s middle-class notions are mainstream—the consciousness about environmental issues and some social justice issues are still strong here, but tree-sitters and Marine recruitment center protestors are just as likely to be viewed as wrong headed nuisances than as inspiring heroes.

Berkeley can be thought of in terms of its various sections. In the vicinity of the University, are a number of restaurants and coffee houses, packed to the gills day and night as students work hard to sustain both their grades and their social lives. By far the most vibrant of the sections during the day, is Southside where people step into coffees houses and restaurants on their way to and from class. With Telegraph Avenue at its heart and Sather Gate on one end and People’s Park on the other, this is the Mecca of post-modern punks, homeless people and crazies. It is also where you will find Zellerbach Hall where speakers and dancers draw crowds, where the Pacific Film Archive is likely to be showing some obscure nugget of film history, and where Berkeley Modern Art Museum is located.

The vast majority of undergraduates live in the immediate vicinity of campus where apartments are plentiful and Victorians are likely to be parceled out room by room or floor by floor. The average age of Southside residents, for example, is 19. Those that want to avoid the apartment hunting madness and inflated rents of the close to campus housing tend to look farther south and west for housing some going as far as Oakland for a cost cut.

Graduate students—especially those with families—tend to look for housing on the more staid North Berkeley areas, where there are many pre-World War II homes of modest size and affordable rents. The quiet, quaint neighborhoods are perfect both for studying and for small children. Schools throughout Berkeley are strong because of both parental commitment and because so many of are run and taught by highly educated locals whose spouses are affiliated with the University.

But Berkeley is not just a college town—it definitely has a strong population of residents who are either only loosely associated with the university or who have nothing to do with it. The farther west you go towards the bay the more this is the case. Many companies in the southwest of Berkeley could just as easily have thrived in any other city in the East Bay.

Many people also choose Berkeley because of its beauty. This is especially the case in the Berkeley Hills where large homes perch along the precarious hillside offering grand views of the Bay. Hidden in those hills are large mansions, a castle, and a plethora of historic homes, many built by famous Bay Area architects Bernard Maybeck (famous for his wood shingle homes) and Julia Morgan. People also love the highly cultured and intellectual flavor of the city, where on any days walk you are just as likely to hear Vietnamese or Portuguese as English, and where the people at the restaurant table next to you are often Noble Laureates in Science, famous authors, or the most famous living expert on Cold War Romanian propaganda film.

The Berkeley Downtown has grown into a cultural center with a host of top notch restaurants stretching up Shattuck to the area known as the Gourmet Ghetto and a variety of eclectic stores offering everything from obscure comic books to French second imported clothing. The Berkeley Repertory Theater has also come to be the most respected acting company in the East Bay, often mounting cutting-edge theatrical experiments alongside revived and updated classics. There are also about as many bookstores as anyone could want, with Cody’s Books on Telegraph being almost as culturally significant as City Lights in North Beach, and with a much better selection.

In addition, the proximity to Tilden Park and the many smaller neighborhood parks make this a wonderland for outdoorsy types forced to live in the city. There are many attractions for kids—especially young kids, like Habitot, a play and art center especially designed for the very young. Parents can find Yoga places and spas and movie theaters. Basically, Berkeley is like an eclectic though unpretentious San Francisco neighborhood moved to the East Bay.

This is, of course, not to say that Berkeley doesn’t have its problems. Drugs tend to be common throughout much of the southern city as anyone with a nose can tell you when passing what remains of People’s Park. Homeless people and crazies are more than a little bit of a nuisance. It is difficult to navigate most major streets without being panhandled. Minor crimes like radio thefts abound, and more violent crimes are at high enough levels where people need to be mindful of their location—especially at night time.

Traffic and parking are almost as difficult as in many neighborhoods in the city, though public parking is plentiful and relatively cheap. Public transportation is also excellent in this area with three Berkeley BART stations and a number of bus line criss-crossing the city.

And finally the weather tends to be cooler and foggier than farther in land. The cool bay breezes make for wonderful clear weather on many days and people love to spend the weekends at coffee houses reading and doing their work.

On a personal note, it is the first city that I fell in love with and the reason why I came here and even now that I have gotten to know it as one comes to know a close friend or lover, I still find it irresistible and it still brings a thrill to my blood every time I see it. Problably my favorite city in the world, and a map much of my life by its physical and spiritual relation to Sather Tower—it is the light house to my ship.
Pros
  • Great Intellectual Spirit
  • Woody Hills
  • Great Shops, Restaurants, Coffee Shops and Book Stores
Cons
  • Aggressive Panhandlers
  • Crime
  • Druggies
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Singles
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Hipsters
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment (1)
  • Follow
StephSF
StephSF Great review, @Nightowl! I wonder about the comment on how it is a "shadow of its former radical self." While this is certainly true, I think it is more a symptom of our culture no longer being such a breeding ground for left-wing sit-ins, and Berkeley has responded accordingly (it's not like some other town has taken over Berkeley's role). All things considered, it is still whacky and liberal compared to most other towns in the U.S.

It's also a great place for any city dweller who is an outdoorsperson at heart, with several small outdoor climbing areas and array of hiking trails with stunning views.
Nov 07, 2010
Add a comment...
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 5/5
  • Clean & Green 4/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 3/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 5/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 3/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 2/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Oct 25, 2010

"Park and Tunnel Berkeley"

Just north of the Gourmet Ghetto as the restaurant rich stretch of Shattuck is known, is the Live Oak neighborhood of Berkeley, so named because it surrounds Live Oak Park. Live Oak Park itself is a smallish park with lots of tree cover and walkways—a great little bucolic oasis in a suburban desert.

The main artery going through this area is Henry Street which is what Shattuck veers into as it heads up to the Solano Tunnel. Dark redwood shingled town homes and a tree-lined meridian characterize this lane. Most of the stores and restaurants are south of Rose and thus outside of the Live Oak neighborhood. The neighborhood itself is almost completely residential.

West of Henry, the neighborhood is a fairly even mix of smallish single family homes—many dating back to before World War II--and boxy three story 1970s style apartments, complete with middle courtyards so people can spend time together (in theory). The typical apartment or home in this area averages about $700 per room, a three bedroom costing around $2100.

As you move farther north, you come across a section of the neighborhood where the homes, though still very modestly sized for the most part are well-maintained giving this area an irresistibly quaint feel to it, as much of North Berkeley does. Prices are much steeper here, with the average room averaging about $900. It is also generally the case that there are fewer undergrads in this neighborhood, since many residents of this area are actually owners and those that aren’t still tend to be committed to staying put for a while.

East of Henry as the neighborhood nudges up against the Berkeley Hills, you find only small older homes.

The many schools and daycares in this small neighborhood speak to the majority of the population here—largely young professionals with small children, just as in the surrounding neighborhoods. St. Mary’s runs a daycare and a school and Congregation Beth El may do the same.

This area is also far enough from Downtown that you largely avoid the problems with homeless folks and crime.

Overall, it is a nice quiet place for Berkeley residents to raise kids.
Pros
  • Leafy Streets
  • Nice, Well Kept Homes
  • Quiet
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Retirees
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 2/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 5/5
  • Internet Access 4/5
  • Lack of Traffic 4/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 2/5
  • Parking 3/5
  • Parks & Recreation 5/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 4/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Oct 16, 2010

"Berkeley's Best Residential Neigbhorhood"

Thousand Oaks is the Berkeley neighborhood that stretches out north of Solano Avenue by the Sutter Street tunnel. Thousand Oaks is one of those little discussed neighborhoods that residents love and that most everyone else has never really heard of. The name adds a further level of anonymity since listeners are bound to reference the much larger San Fernando Valley neighborhood in So Cal when hearing the name. Thousands Oaks, however, is certainly deserving of much more attention than it has gotten to this point.

On its southern end, where Solano Blvd. forms its southern border, Thousand Oaks has one of the best little shopping areas in the entire East Bay—an area that has remained virtually free of the homeless hassles that taint some of Berkeley’s central areas. In fact, Thousand Oaks tends to trend older than other sections of Berkeley, having fewer students and more married professionals. On weekends, this is evident at the gourmet restaurants and odd ball boutiques that make up Solano, where you are likely to spot as many strollers as cars.

The homes in this area most resemble, perhaps, those of the Claremont area to the south of the Berkeley campus. There are wide lanes with large collections of larger pre-War manors in some areas while smaller bungalows and Craftsman style homes dominate the lower areas near Solano Blvd. But this only scratches the surface—architectural buffs will find more than enough variety to fill their scrap books—high roofed Tudor manors, squat Craftsmans, the gambrelled roofs of Colonials, the stately balance of Georgians. The geography of the neighborhood, however, is much more like that of the neighboring Berkeley Hills which adds even more of an aesthetic appeal to the area. Prices, of course, follow this level of variety and beauty. So don’t expect to find too many deals here.

There are also several natural features and human-made adaptations to these features that add even more diversity and interest to the neighborhood. One of these features is the traffic circle like the one over the tunnel at the edge of the neighborhood. It helps to redirect traffic along Marin, and works somewhat like the knot in a tree or a whirlpool. There are also a series of natural features like the climbing rocks of the Great Stone Face Park, one of the very cool local parks in this part of the city and the encroachment of hilly forested area that marks the border with Arlington to the north.

You will also find the beautiful Indian Trail on the northern end, one of the truly great places to take a walk in Berkeley. Leafy and usually cooled by the sea breezes, the trail takes you up on stone lined path.

Overall, this is one of the best residential neighborhoods not only in Berkeley but perhaps in all of the East Bay.
Pros
  • Quiet
  • Beautiful Architecture
  • Woody Parks and Walks
Cons
  • Very Expensive
  • Boring
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Students
  • Country Lovers
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
5/5 rating details
  • Childcare 3/5
  • Clean & Green 5/5
  • Cost of Living 1/5
  • Eating Out 2/5
  • Gym & Fitness 4/5
  • Internet Access 3/5
  • Lack of Traffic 5/5
  • Medical Facilities 2/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 4/5
  • Nightlife 1/5
  • Parking 1/5
  • Parks & Recreation 4/5
  • Peace & Quiet 4/5
  • Pest Free 1/5
  • Public Transport 1/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 4/5
  • Shopping Options 1/5
  • Safe & Sound 4/5
  • Schools 4/5
Oct 16, 2010

"Temple, Castle and Cyclotron"

Berkeley Terrace is a neighborhood in the Berkeley hills with many narrow winding roads and hidden attractions. The 1923 Berkeley Fire destroyed the neighborhood spurring new construction by one of the Bay Area’s most famous architects Bernard Maybeck, who built his own home here. The neighborhood that stretches out northeast of the campus is known for being the home of many of the better paid Cal professors and was, historically, home to both Robert Oppenheimer and the man who would displace him, Edward Teller (this was back in the 1930’s). Appropriately, the Berkeley Cyclotron is just southeast of this neighborhood.

Besides the many redwood shingled craftsmen homes that still perch along the narrow winding lanes—a mark of Maybeck’s popularity between the Wars—you also find some of the more unusual structures, like Hume Castle, an actual castle built in 1927 with stones shipped from Europe and modeled on a cloister in Toulouse, France—it is apparently a half-sized replica. The original owner was the daughter of US Senator who, after honeymooning in Europe wanted to live in a castle. The Temple of Wings is farther up Buena Vista. The former dance studio was built in imitation of the Greco-Roman temple with a colonnade lined with Corinthian columns. Many old-timers in the area still remember being taught dance there by a childhood friend and follower of Isadora Duncan. The Temple was designed by Maybeck (but built by another architect) in the Beaux Arts style. It is definitely a Berkeley landmark and the rumor is that it has been bought by the Getty Corporation, so perhaps it will become a museum at some point.

This gives you some sense of the history of this area and of why it is also called “Nut Hill” (a reference to the eccentric original owner of the land as well as those subsequent residents). With Tilden Park at its eastern border and the city just 10 minutes away, this is definitely a great place to live. It is expensive and secluded and perfect for those involved with the university or who need a certain amount of peace in order to get their work done. In my opinion, one of the truly magical places in the world.
Pros
  • Woody
  • Great Views
  • Amazing Houses
Cons
  • Narrow, Windy Streets
  • Wildfires and Erosion
  • Very Expensive
Recommended for
  • Professionals
  • Families with kids
  • Tourists
  • Gay & Lesbian
  • Country Lovers
  • Trendy & Stylish
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
4/5 rating details
  • Childcare 4/5
  • Clean & Green 3/5
  • Cost of Living 4/5
  • Eating Out 4/5
  • Gym & Fitness 2/5
  • Internet Access 5/5
  • Lack of Traffic 3/5
  • Medical Facilities 4/5
  • Neighborly Spirit 3/5
  • Nightlife 3/5
  • Parking 2/5
  • Parks & Recreation 2/5
  • Peace & Quiet 3/5
  • Pest Free 4/5
  • Public Transport 4/5
  • Resale or Rental Value 3/5
  • Shopping Options 3/5
  • Safe & Sound 2/5
  • Schools 3/5
Oct 16, 2010

"Berkeley's Ugly Duckling"

I recently heard that of all the cities in the entire country, the SF Bay Area has the second highest number of old houses (defined as being built before WWII) of any city other than Boston. When you look at Central Berkeley, you can definitely see an example of this. The neighborhood south of University and west of Martin Luther King (where the city offices are) is filled with older bungalows from the pre-war period. These are fairly nicely kept though the lots back then are smaller than we would prefer them to be these days. In themselves, the homes are quite attractive.

In terms of renting, the proximity to Berkeley campus makes it a big students’ market—especially east of Sacramento. Many houses are broken up into separate apartments to take advantage of the student market, so you will find older bungalows and Victorians divided into sections according to entrances or floors. Sometimes these housing situations will require residents to share a communal kitchen with other occupants (sometimes even a bathroom) so you should be aware of this when looking here. East of Sacramento the average per room price is about $700 with the typical one to two bedroom house going for about $1,100. The farther you get from campus and the better timed your search, the better your chances of finding a place. Rentals tend to come free in May and June as students head home for the holidays—you will find lots of furnished sublets for students who need to finish out their lease or hope to return after summer. The craziest period is in August as students and faculty scramble to snatch up the best locations—you will literally find yourself in competition with dozens of other would be renters—though that tends to be more in Elmwood than in Central Berkeley.

Part of the reason for this is the flat, grid-like configuration of this part of Berkeley undermines what might otherwise be a beautiful neighborhood.

The other problem with the area is that there is a bit of gang activity here. I remember having a friend during college who lived here and claimed that he could watch drug deals going down right outside his window. I, myself, have lived at the edge of this neighborhood on Martin Luther King and never had much of problem with crime. Other than a bit of harassment by overly aggressive homeless folk, I’ve rarely felt much more than inconvenienced—even during my late night walks through the area back in my college days (though I don’t know if I would recommend walking late at night in any major city).

The major streets in terms of food and stores are University and San Pablo. University definitely has its share of Seven-Eleven’s and flea bag motor inns, but it also has a bit of the spill over from the Gourmet Ghetto and Downtown Berkeley. So you can have a really nice sit down Italian meal with a nicely chosen Port Wine at Café Venezia, whose faux murals give you a taste of Italy right in Berkeley (a personal favorite from my college days). There is also Bangkok Thai and Fellini, a bit farther down the street. If your taste is a little more pedestrian, West Coast Pizza or North Beach Pizza also have outlets here—as does Nation’s Burgers—all favorite student hangs for those with cars. This is also the lane for sit down breakfasts.

Among San Pablo’s auto repair shops, you can also find a couple of dive bars and some more unusual sorts of what would in other locations be called boutique stores. San Pablo is definitely an underappreciated lane in Berkeley because of it distance from the Campus. It is definitely worth checking out, however.

Overall, Central Berkeley does offer those who want to be close to campus a slightly less competitive alternative to other surrounding neighborhoods.
Pros
  • Affordable Rents
  • Close to Campus
  • Good Restuarants
Cons
  • Property Crime
  • Flat, Ugly Streets
Recommended for
  • Singles
  • Students
  • Helpful
  • Comment
  • Follow
  • Reviews 150
  • Questions 0
  • Answers 62
  • Discussions 28

Answers

What is the best cafe?
Feb 02, 2012
2 Answers
1 Answer

Discussions

Best Moments of 2010
Jan 28, 2011
3 Comments
Christmas Plans
Jan 05, 2011
4 Comments
New Years Resolutions?
Jan 01, 2011
4 Comments
Thanksgiving Plans?
Nov 29, 2010
5 Comments
California Nuts
Nov 20, 2010
5 Comments
5 Comments
6 Comments
4 Comments
7 Comments
Favorite Bay Area Film
Sep 26, 2010
18 Comments
Least SF Places in SF
Aug 15, 2010
9 Comments
16 Comments
4 Comments
Violence in Oakland
Aug 10, 2010
4 Comments
4 Comments
Brown or Whitman
Jul 31, 2010
4 Comments
24 Comments
0 Comments
13 Comments
34 Comments
9 Comments
7 Comments
1 Comment
25 Comments
Connect to Facebook

Looks like you have a Facebook Account!

Link your account with now to make logging in even easier.
Connect to Facebook

Signing you in via Facebook...